Cold Starting XR6

[David g]

2002 Mercury XR6 150 HP
Serial No. 0T469102

I bought a used Ranger with this motor this fall that has had little use. The motor runs very well after I replaced the water pump, thermostats, and spark plugs, however, it is hard to start when cold. After started for the day it is easy to start every time and runs flawlessly. Procedure per the owners manual, I pump the bulb until firm after the motor is trimmed down, advance the throttle slightly, turn ignition key to the on position and hold forward for six seconds, then turn the key to the right to engage starter. Repeat if engine doesn't start. It seems that it takes far to many revolutions to get this motor to fire up when cold. My questions are:

1). Does the choke actuator actually prime the intake or is this just a flapper over the inlet of the carburetor?

2). For those experienced with this engine, is this normal?

3). Is there a cold start procedure that you use or know that prepares this motor to start with less engine revolutions?

All input appreciated.

David G

[OldTimer57]

It really doesn't have a choke. It simply lets fuel dribble into the bottom two carbs, from the carb at the top.

You might check the top carb to see if this is working (you should hear a click when you press the start switch in before cranking). You can pull the cowl and air silencer off then you will see the rubber tubes (smallish) connecting the three carbs. Unplug the tube where it comes out of the top carb and hold a small pan or something under the barb. Have someone press the switch in and see if you get a dribble of fuel out. Note, don't get the wrong tube, the larger tube comes from the fuel pump to the filter to the top carb. This primer tube originates at the top carb with a single barb connection, then has a double-barb T at the middle carb, and another single barb connector at the bottom.

Several things used to give me problems. If you squeeze the primer bulb with the motor trimmed up prior to launch, you might have a bad needle/seat in the carb, or tilted that far forward fuel might be able to drain out of the bowl before you get ready for the prime/start sequence.

You can also pull the carbs, give them a good cleaning (not a very hard job) and make sure the prime "dribble" tubing is open and clear.

Mine was always a little difficult to start the first time. I used to turn key on, press in to prime and hold for 10 seconds, then continue to press it in and turn the key to start. If you have removed the idle stabilizer, using a touch of "idle-up" at the throttle is also helpful, until it warms up a touch.

Wish I could give more precise info, but I got rid of my XR6 15+ years ago and have been running opti's ever since. Different motor completely.

[22R]

Before you tear anything apart just yet. Count to ten while you push the primer in and when you hit the starter push the primer in and out a bit too. Mine usually starts on the 2nd try without holding the starter engaged more than 5 second each time.

22R

[David g]

I used the ten count yesterday at the lake and my Merc started right up. Thanks so much for the info. I also ride Harley's and although my newest is fuel injected, I have a Shovelhead with a Mikuni carburetor that has kick start. If I set that motor up with three pumps of the throttle, choke on, kick through slow three times with the ignition off, then turn on the ignition, it will most always fire on that first kick. Regardless of whether motors are carbureted or injected, if you have a good spark and proper atomization of fuel in the chamber, there should be no need to crank much at all. I just needed to know how to get there with this motor. Thanks again.

[OldTimer57]

That's the main thing I like about my opti. :) Has to spin 3 times before firing, unfortunately, but fires up instantly thanks to direct injection. Used to hate the "lean sneeze" that would often require a reed replacement (using non-metal reeds). I remember the first direct-injected motor I saw, was at one of the 1990-era bass classics in Birmingham, the evinrude ficht motor. Thing fired right up and idled like a car without all the spitting, sputtering and missing a cold 2-stroke presents. Those old carb motors ran good, but burned gas like it was free, also. :)

[David g]

That's the main thing I like about my opti. :) Has to spin 3 times before firing, unfortunately, but fires up instantly thanks to direct injection. Used to hate the "lean sneeze" that would often require a reed replacement (using non-metal reeds). I remember the first direct-injected motor I saw, was at one of the 1990-era bass classics in Birmingham, the evinrude ficht motor. Thing fired right up and idled like a car without all the spitting, sputtering and missing a cold 2-stroke presents. Those old carb motors ran good, but burned gas like it was free, also. :)

Fuel injection is decidedly a better way and when it works, it is the best technology today. When it doesn't work it most generally has to be taken to a mechanic with an analyzer machine and proper training. As a consummate do it your selfer, I can work on carburetors. No need for some fancy azz machine to diagnose and also the cost for replacement parts for the system is exhorbitant. This is usually not an issue with young systems but my motor is fifteen years old. Guess I am old fashion but I do have EFI on my autos and my newest Harley. TECHNOLOGY is a good thing but KISS can work for a long time. I wonder how my newest Harley will run when it is as old as my Shovelhead thirty eight years from now?

[OldTimer57]

When I bought my 1992 Astro, the salesman was amazed when I demanded that he remove that 150 Xri and replace it with the XR6. He asked "Why? these things run like a dream...." I replied (a) more torque (2.5 vs 2.0 liter block) and (b) I can take that XR6 apart and put it back together by myself with no oddball tools I don't already own.. I actually did that multiple times over the years as I improved performance.

[moetorola]

I had a choice between 150 XR6 and 150 EFI when looking at boats. Guess which one I picked? XR6!

No computer, no clogged injectors, etc....
Yeah,,DFI and EFI start like a modern car. But I can work on a carbed motor. And deal with the starting issues, but once you figured out the starting procedure,, your golden!

Sad part is, I know of a few people in California that had to sell there carbed motors for 4 strokes because of lake requirement's in that state.

One reason a lot of people sell there boat, just before warranty is up on the motor. Don't want to worry about a costly repair out of warranty.

Don't get me wrong, I would love a DFI 2 or 4 stroke, just not out of warranty!

[22R]

I used the ten count yesterday at the lake and my Merc started right up. Thanks so much for the info. I also ride Harley's and although my newest is fuel injected, I have a Shovelhead with a Mikuni carburetor that has kick start. If I set that motor up with three pumps of the throttle, choke on, kick through slow three times with the ignition off, then turn on the ignition, it will most always fire on that first kick. Regardless of whether motors are carbureted or injected, if you have a good spark and proper atomization of fuel in the chamber, there should be no need to crank much at all. I just needed to know how to get there with this motor. Thanks again.

Glad to hear it....other than being thirsty my old 92 is very reliable and runs great.

22R

[kylebass91]

Sounds about right to me. Hold the key in for 6-10 seconds crank it, takes about 3-5 seconds on mine and it'll fire right up. Once I got her going to problems the rest of the day, heck normally don't even have to touch the bulb or anything. Yours sounds good to go to me.

[EuropeanAM]

Best method on these old carb models is:

-Engine at LEVEL trim

-Pump primer bulb FIRM

-Throttle at IDLE

-Key ON, Push IN for 10 seconds (one thousand one, one thousand two....)

-Turn key to start and release when it fires

-Bump key in if engine tries to sputter out (may occur 1-5 times, depending on conditions).

These carbs were a simple design, but unfortunately, they are the way of the past. That's not all a bad thing, considering the massive changes that occurred in fuels.

[Coyotehunter1]

Use a fuel system cleaner for every 5 gallons of fuel.

[cooky]

I have had success in starting my xr6 by pushing in the key (choke) for 6 seconds, open throttle 1/4 then engage the starter while holding the choke down or in while cranking. Be sure the engine is in the full down position and the fuel primer bulb is pumped tight before starting

[TBOGEYBOGEY]

I have a Nitro nx882 with a mercury xr6. I was having trouble with the start and found a severely cracked enrichner line to the carbs. Replaced and it made a huge difference.

[JOE54]

^^^^^^ bet it did

[wentbroketryingtogopro]

Seems like ever since Merc came out with the XR6 you can ask the owners how they like their engine and if they have had any problems.Probably 80% of the time they say the only problem they have is it is hard to start on cold mornings.After that they are probably one of the best built engines out there.This is coming from a guy that's not necessarily a Merc diehard fan.

[JOE54]

most were never instructed how to operate choke properly and don't read owners manual also we have to remember it is a carb mtr