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  1. #1
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    Braid vs fluro jig fishing

    Thoughts/preferences on braid vs fluro on 3/8 to 3/4oz skirted jigs or wobble heads.

    Mainly use them on riprap down to 20' and on sparse hard bottoms such as flats or humps with rock or a few logs down to 25'. Thank you
    Last edited by Bigguyone; 11-05-2017 at 07:22 AM.
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  2. Member rodney_h's Avatar
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    #2
    Braid will cut into wood, increasing hang ups.
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  3. Member
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    Sep 2004
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    #3
    Fluoro. The riprap will shred the braid.

  4. Member
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    #4
    I'd go with 16-20# fluorocarbon. And I would pick a line that's known for having great abrasion resistance, such as Sunline Shooter or Seaguar Abrazx. If the water isn't clear, then go with 30 or 50 pound braid.

  5. Member DrewFlu33's Avatar
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    #5
    Agree with the above. If I have to choose, I like braid around these parts, but it's almost all grass and very little wood. Very different than what you mention. Additionally, fluoro will sink and even though it might be minor given the heavy baits you'll be throwing, will get you down more quickly and accurately at the depths you mention.

    I experimented with a fluoro leader on my flipping and punching setup this year. Most would say I'm crazy, but I was wanting to use a high-vis braid without having the line visibility question in the back of my mind. Besides, it's much easier to peg a large sinker on fluoro and the fluoro does better when it ends up getting sawed on a dock post or cable. At the same time, the leader has to be short enough to prevent the knot from interfering with your casts. Even with the thinnest knot you can tie, the knot going through your guides will mess with accuracy at least occasionally on a flip. Long story short, I caught a lot of fish this year flipping a 3 foot 16 or 25# fluoro leader on 50 lb braid, and I think more than I would've by using straight braid or straight fluoro.

    Two reasons for that I think, aside from the obvious of not breaking off braid when being sawed on a dock or not getting a fish out of the shit with straight fluoro:
    1) The high vis braid meant I was able to spot bites and set the hook into fish without ever feeling them, particularly if a fish grabbed it on the way down or right after it hit the bottom. It surprised me how often I'd see a visible "jump" in my line that was very obviously a fish. I, like everyone I think, have also felt fish let go of a bait when I've lifted into them. If you don't lift into them, they're not going to feel resistance and should be less likely to spit it.
    2) I think I made more casts during a given day on the water. As minor as it probably is, especially when shallow, the high vis braid leaves no doubt about when your bait hits the bottom. That extra second or so I gained versus waiting longer to make sure the bait hit the bottom if I was using line I couldn't see as easily resulted in more casts throughout the day. More casts = more fish.

    The real point of contention is whether I would've gotten the same amount of bites when going with straight high-vis braid versus straight low-vis braid. I probably would have, but who really knows? Then I suppose you'd have to ask how many extra fish I'd have broken off with braid sawing on stuff. Couldn't tell you on that one...Just something to think about.
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  6. Member RazorCat's Avatar
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    #6
    20# Sniper fluorocarbon
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  7. Member
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    #7
    Funny Drew...I couldn't agree more! People thought I was a little nuts for it but I was a believer for all the reasons you said! I think the hi-vis braid has been the best, most improved tool on the water for me the last several years...Love the combo on a spinning reel for Senkos especially! Maybe it's because my vision has started to fail me more n more during that time too! LOL
    Do you prefer a uni to uni knot or something else?

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