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  1. Member
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Nixa
    Posts
    346
    #21
    I've used two part epoxys on concrete floors for 27 years now at work. We apply it on container storage area floors for hazardous material storage, and Ive also used it at home. The Sherwin Williams is pretty good, but I much prefer Anchor (Anchor Hi-build in grey). It goes down and stays down better than anything else we've applied. I put in in my shop on a broom finished floor. After etching, it's lasted well for 6 years now. The only thing I'd warn you about coating over a rough finished floor is that you don't want to get road salts on it (from snow build up on a car). This wreaks havoc on any concrete coating including epoxy. It makes its way in the tiny nooks (a broom finish has way more chances to have these tiny voids) and will soften the top surface of the floor and start breaking up. If you don't have that issue- there is no reason to grind a rough finish down as two or three coats of epoxy will build higher and smooth out the floor enough that it's easy to broom it off. I simply let the mixed two part sit for an extra few minutes before applying, and it goes down a little heavier and builds faster. I've driven in my shop on 100 degree days when the road tar is sticking to my tires, but never had any "hot tire lift" on my floor.

    You won't be sorry. Spend a little extra time in the prep, and you'll have a floor that is way easier to clean, and looks a lot nicer as well.

  2. #22
    It needs to be resistant to road salt as well. I noticed some of the responses were from southern states not sure if any of their recommendations would still be suggested knowing that salt will be on there from time to time as the vehicle sits after driving in snow covered roads?
    Quote Originally Posted by mrxpress8567 View Post
    I've used two part epoxys on concrete floors for 27 years now at work. We apply it on container storage area floors for hazardous material storage, and Ive also used it at home. The Sherwin Williams is pretty good, but I much prefer Anchor (Anchor Hi-build in grey). It goes down and stays down better than anything else we've applied. I put in in my shop on a broom finished floor. After etching, it's lasted well for 6 years now. The only thing I'd warn you about coating over a rough finished floor is that you don't want to get road salts on it (from snow build up on a car). This wreaks havoc on any concrete coating including epoxy. It makes its way in the tiny nooks (a broom finish has way more chances to have these tiny voids) and will soften the top surface of the floor and start breaking up. If you don't have that issue- there is no reason to grind a rough finish down as two or three coats of epoxy will build higher and smooth out the floor enough that it's easy to broom it off. I simply let the mixed two part sit for an extra few minutes before applying, and it goes down a little heavier and builds faster. I've driven in my shop on 100 degree days when the road tar is sticking to my tires, but never had any "hot tire lift" on my floor.

    You won't be sorry. Spend a little extra time in the prep, and you'll have a floor that is way easier to clean, and looks a lot nicer as well.

  3. Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Roswell
    Posts
    10,586
    #23
    I hired a contractor to do my garage....700sq. ft. He spent 2.5 days sanding the paint off. The end result was great and the best part is how well it has held up over the past 8 years.....still looks great. PM for pics.

  4. Member Bassman Ia.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Co.Bluffs
    Posts
    33,238
    #24
    I have been looking at products to do my shop floor.

    When I built this, my concrete guy power trowled the floor for hours as he sprayed Cure and Seal on the surface. For 20 years the floor looked like granite, EXTREMELY slick if any water was on the surface. Grease and oil never penetrated the surface. But years of use, has taken that sealer off.

  5. Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    New Iberia / Hemphill
    Posts
    8,625
    #25
    Does the non skid make it harder to sweep the floor clean? Does debris snag to the grit?

  6. Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    3,306
    #26
    I put carpet down and it was amazing.

  7. Member
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Pueblo West
    Posts
    1,612
    #27
    Bookmarked for reference
    would like to do our garage

  8. Member grayline's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Newnan Georgia
    Posts
    5,685
    #28
    Quote Originally Posted by breeves2245 View Post
    Spend money on what counts, a quality product. I used big box store Rustoleum on a brand new garage floor. Prepared the floor exactly as instructed, began chipping/peeling within the year.
    Me too brand new floor.I was told too remove slurry coat AFTER it cured. Hot tires sitting over night peeled it right up. We ended up tiling the whole thing..

  9. Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Salem
    Posts
    835
    #29
    Quote Originally Posted by Aruss1984 View Post
    I'm looking to seal my concrete garage floor and looking for suggestions. I'd like something that is easy to clean and durable. Should I power wash first then etch, prime etc? Or wash with soap and water and squeegee dry the etch etc. ?
    National Coatings makes a great product - http://www.premiersurfacecoatings.com/
    Scott Doughty
    2022 Skeeter ZX225 - 2022 Yamaha 225 SHO
    Salem, NH

  10. Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Roswell
    Posts
    10,586
    #30
    Quote Originally Posted by oiltech09 View Post
    Does the non skid make it harder to sweep the floor clean? Does debris snag to the grit?
    No, the chip flakes are micro thin. It simply keeps the surface from being too slick. Cleaning the floor is so easy.

  11. Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    MS
    Posts
    9,662
    #31
    Quote Originally Posted by Aruss1984 View Post
    It needs to be resistant to road salt as well. I noticed some of the responses were from southern states not sure if any of their recommendations would still be suggested knowing that salt will be on there from time to time as the vehicle sits after driving in snow covered roads?
    I am in a southern state where road salt really is not an issue but the floors here take other abuses.

    I did a floor in an asphalt research and testing lab where hot asphalt is routinely dropped on the floor along with metal buckets being dropped and slid across the floor daily plus shovels being used to scoop up stuff. On top of the physical abuse that floor has endured, they clean up the asphalt residue with some pretty strong cleaners. Those floors still look VERY good considering what they have gone through.
    Hi Mike.

  12. Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    7,671
    #32
    Quote Originally Posted by oiltech09 View Post
    Does the non skid make it harder to sweep the floor clean? Does debris snag to the grit?
    If your talking about Shark Grip or any other non skid material,, yes the dirt will stick to it. Especially tire traffic.

  13. Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    251
    #33
    Quote Originally Posted by grayline View Post
    Me too brand new floor.I was told too remove slurry coat AFTER it cured. Hot tires sitting over night peeled it right up. We ended up tiling the whole thing..
    I don't know what you guys are talking about. My garage has been through 12 years now. That's New England years with salt and sand. Zero effect on my Rustoleum sealed floor. Obviously it was the installer that caused your problems, not the product.

  14. Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Springdale, AR
    Posts
    471
    #34
    I am currently having this done to my garage floor by a professional. The amount of prep work going into it is insane. Never EVER EVER EVER would I attempt this as a DIY. The guy told me its all about preparation and if you don't do it right, your epoxy will chip and come off and its $$ down the drain. They are doing a polyospartic floor (similar to epoxy but more durable and doesn't fade/crack/chip). if you do it your self, make sure you etch and scuff up your floor good so it will adhear, if not you are going to have your flooring come off in chunks in less than a year

  15. Member
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    Mar 2016
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    251
    #35
    I must have done a great job then. It wasn't really hard.

  16. Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    1,277
    #36
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott F View Post
    I am currently having this done to my garage floor by a professional. The amount of prep work going into it is insane. Never EVER EVER EVER would I attempt this as a DIY. The guy told me its all about preparation and if you don't do it right, your epoxy will chip and come off and its $$ down the drain. They are doing a polyospartic floor (similar to epoxy but more durable and doesn't fade/crack/chip). if you do it your self, make sure you etch and scuff up your floor good so it will adhear, if not you are going to have your flooring come off in chunks in less than a year
    how big is your garage and how much money?

  17. Banned
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Clarks Hill Lake
    Posts
    20,875
    #37
    had my done professionally. they spent an entire day just grinding. no way the self do it kits will hold up the same




  18. Ranger Boats Moderator 22RangerZ520R's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Louisville, KY
    Posts
    5,414
    #38
    Looks great. What company did yours?

    Quote Originally Posted by TroyBoy30 View Post
    had my done professionally. they spent an entire day just grinding. no way the self do it kits will hold up the same




  19. Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    League City, TX/Lake Sam Rayburn (Rayburn Country)
    Posts
    1,891
    #39
    The only way my garage could be that neat and clean is if I lived somewhere else and just came by every now and the to look at it and take pictures.

  20. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Moyock, NC
    Posts
    633
    #40
    I was quoted $4500.00 to epoxy coat a 30 X 36 garage floor. The material cost runs around $1900.00, the rest is all labor for diamond grinding, cleaning, application of epoxy and clear coat resulting in a 43 mil dry film thickness. This would also provide a 10 year warranty. I'm just unwilling to spend that kind of money on this project. I'm considering just doing it myself. I've been looking at Epoxy-Coat systems but I'm sure there are other commercial products available. I have previously used the products available at Lowes or Home Depot but will not use them for this project.
    Phillip "Wade" Norris
    2015 Ranger Z520C
    250 Merc Optimax Pro XS (S# 2B113454)
    25P Fury - 4 blade all holes open


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