Thread: Wheel Bearing?

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  1. #1
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    Wheel Bearing?

    Guys,

    I have an older 1996 Ranger Trail duel axle trailer with the old style grease hubs. I recently changed out the wheel bearings and was wondering should I add some kind of gasket maker/ silicone to go around the edge of the cap that tap into the hub? I have tried using electrical tape in the past but it really doesn't do much good as it ends up slipping off maybe due to heat or whatever. SO I was just thinking about completely sealing off where the hub and cap meet with some sort of RTV gasket maker or something. May be a little harder to get back off but if it helps keep water out and pro longs WB life may be worth it.

    Any thoughts are appreciated and if anyone uses this method exactly what kind of gasket maker or silicone should I use? I think I have some of the permatex fast cure (brown) on hand as well as the RTV high temp silicone (Red).

    Thanks for any thoughts guys.

  2. Natalie Gulbis tdt91's Avatar
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    #2
    Replace the caps with bearing buddies. Add some grease and the grease / pressure will keep the water out.
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  3. Member Jeff Hahn's Avatar
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    #3
    I would avoid the bearing buddies, as folks tend to over-grease the hubs when using them. The Ranger Trailer Department told us during a tour to use red high temp RTV silicone on the cap for the COOL Hubs. That's what I would use on the cap of your older style greased hubs. I had the same greased hubs on my 1991 Ranger 390 trailer. They are about as bullet-proof a system as was ever invented.
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  4. Member
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    #4
    Thanks for the info guys, Anything I can further improve to be sure nothing gets in on the rear side seals opposite of the cap side?

  5. Member RazorCat's Avatar
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    #5
    New seal, thoroughly hand pack the bearings as you install them, pack as much grease in by hand just before installing the washers and keeper nut. Install a bearing buddy as good sealing device only. Never, ever use a grease gun on zerk fitting to apply additional grease. Just make sure you purchase a seal designed for marine applications. Not a standard automotive steal.
    If the seal is good, and your hub shows no signs of slinging or leaking grease out then there's no reason to have to add any more to the hub in between removing and hand repacking. All zerks are good for is blowing out the seals. If you have just a little bit of the blue portion of the bearing buddy showing you're good to go.
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  6. Member
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    #6
    Thanks for the info guys.

    So I ordered Timken Wheel Bearings (L68149) & Timken Races (L68149). Can anyone recommend the proper marine seal I should be using?

    Thanks

  7. Member
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    #7
    So I should pack the entire hub through the seal hole just prior to adding washer/keeper nut?

  8. Member
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    #8
    Timken makes high quality bearings races and seals.
    Just get Timken seals as well.


    You need to pack the bearings in your hand before they go into the hub and onto the spindle.
    What RazorCat meant was do not leave a packed bearing sitting around, they will become contaminated with dirt.
    Pack the inner bearing, put it in the hub, press the seal in, pack the outer bearing, put the hub on, put the outer bearing in, washer, nut tighten...

  9. Member
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    #9
    I went away from Bearing Buddies because I didn't like all the opportunities for impurities and water to get in my hubs around the moving parts. So far, so good I really don't think I'll ever go back, I just buy some new caps once in a while. I never considered sealant because the whole installation will be greasy and I doubt it would stick.