I have a 09 Ranger z21, with a hpdi 250 Yamaha. I have 2 9 inch units, 1 12inch, and 2 12 ft talons. I was told Yamaha motors need a large reserve to start them. I installed a jump switch last week. I have a vita-plate cranking battery. It is only one year old. After a full day on the water, i cant start my motor. What kind of battery should i invest in??? HELP
What kind of vita plate? AGM? Gel? What size is it?
You got a lot of draw goin on there. You may need 2 parallel starter batts.
xpress x19, 200ho G2, aluminum sawtooth cut prop, paper sack tackle storage, ugly stik pro team, color c-lector
Or try turning off the console units when fishing... Dan
I do put units on stand by when not looking at them. Im not sure about sz of battery. When i got it, the dealer said he sells this to farmers, and guys with large trucks. Largest battery for starting that vita makes. Also, i have no room for a 5th battery.
I did this one for mine. I have had good luck with these in the past when beating the hell out of them in my Raptor.
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/pc2150mst.htm
MoBob
2020 Z520c Ranger 250 Pro-XS Mercury
2023 Ford Raptor
O'Fallon, MO
That's quite a battery. Can Yamaha's use an AGM? Do you charge your battery between trips? What is the length and width of your battery, OR what size does the label say, like 24, 27, 29 or 31?Originally Posted by MoBob
Best I've been able to tell, that X2 and Odyssey are the same battery. Both group size 31. The X2 can be had for significantly cheaper with Batteries Plus discount codes for ordering online to pick up in store.
There's another one under the Northstar brand that I'm pretty sure is the same as well. https://www.northstarbattery.com/pro...agm-31?p=51222
I also believe these are all clones of the now-discontinued Sears PM-1 everyone loved so much.
The Yamaha shouldn't have any problems with an AGM. The only motors I've heard with problems with AGMs are older Mercurys with stators, and even those issues may be overblown. Our resident battery expert CatDude runs one in his Mercury with a stator without any issues to date. He also made a post sometime back discussing his thoughts on the matter. I won't try one to find out, but you should be good to go.
I also think you'll be in luck with the voltage requirements of your Yamaha versus those who run Mercury Pro XSs. They seem to be the voltage hogs when it comes to cranking. Though I don't doubt the HPDI requires a lot of current, I still think it's easier to turn over than those Pro XSs.
2011 Skeeter ZX225
225 Yamaha HPDI Series 2
Minn Kota Ultrex 112 52"
Console: HDS 16 Carbon
Bow: HDS 12 Carbon, Solix 12 G2, Mega 360, Garmin 106 SV, LVS 34
X2 from Batteries Plus is a rebadged Northstar 31 AGM. The Odyssey is a different battery, and used to get rebadged for Sears under the PM 1 name. The Northstar and Odyssey are probably the best two 31 AGM's around right now. I would think that either one of these two would do the trick for the OP. My choice would be the Northstar only because it tends to be less "fussy" in terms of charging requirements. If I remember correctly, CCA requirement for that HPDI was only around 500.
Drew, I don't run an AGM for cranking. I have a 31 series wet commercial battery from Deka, and have an Optimax. Just finishing up year three on that battery. If I had a Merc with a stator system, I would not use an AGM.
2019 BCB Classic
Merc V8 200 4S
Before I bought a new battery I would do a few things things.
1. Eliminate any parasitic battery draw when not in use. I would have the cranking battery on a disconnect so nothing could weaken the battery when not is use. I know Talon recommends they should be isolated to a disconnect of their own. I have on older Lowrance and I remember reading in the installation instructions that they recommend the antenna power be on a source that can be disconnected from power because even when not in use it will have a small drain on a battery if power is present. The only thing I would want to have power when the boat was not being used would be an auto bilge pump if the boat has one. Otherwise everything else would be on a disconnect. Most newer style boat motors that have a computer have a small parasitic draw on the battery even with the ignition off. Hence another vote for a disconnect. If your starting out with a small discharge before the day even starts you are putting yourself in a situation to fail at the end of the day.
2. On board battery charger. We all have them for our trolling motors. Some do and some don't for the cranking battery. Always charge the cranking battery every time you use the boat...you probably already have one but just in case you don't it is a must have item that you must use with all the accessories you're running.
3. When buying a battery bigger physical size does not always mean more power or longer running time. Pay close attention to the cranking amps and reserve run time. Personally I want 200 or more minutes of reserve run time. I also want at least 1000 cranking amps...google is your friend. If you are not familiar with how they calculate reserve run time or cranking amps then look it up. I have seen a few instances where a group 29 battery had more more power and reserve than a group 31. So when someone says just buy a group 31 battery because its the bigger size it does not always mean it has the specs to make it better. Personally I would go AGM for a cranking battery. They are not cheap but they have a longer life span. Someone posted the link to an Odyssey battery. Looking at the specs it is a beast. Here is what I run. The reserve spes on it are slightly better than the Odyssey but the Odyssey has better cranking amps. https://www.dcbattery.com/deka_8a31dt.html this is not where I bought it but just a link with specs.
What's matter? That Hammer doesn't have a rope kit?
Sorry about misquoting what you run there! I swear I thought I remembered you making a post about running an AGM on a Merc with stator.
Incidentally, I run the same battery as a cranker on my XRi EFI. Well, it's a "Duracell" Commercial, but yeah. 950 cca and 1170 ca gets it done for me. I think the reserve is "only" 175 minutes, but it's the best battery for my application I've come across save for maybe the NAPA version that has slightly more cranking amps.
2011 Skeeter ZX225
225 Yamaha HPDI Series 2
Minn Kota Ultrex 112 52"
Console: HDS 16 Carbon
Bow: HDS 12 Carbon, Solix 12 G2, Mega 360, Garmin 106 SV, LVS 34
I spoke to my Yamaha dealer today. As stated above by someone, my 250 hpdi only requires 700-750 cranking amps, but it requires a reserve of 180 or better. My vita-plate has 1050 cca, but only 125 reserve. That is my problem, so vita is getting me a 31 series duel battery, with 810 cca, and a reserve of 225. This should solve my issues. I have always had Merc motors, they like cca.
PS, jr 19, i do have a disconnect switch, plus all rangers have disconnects for trolling motor, and dash pads. I also have a 4 bank charger, used after every time out. Good looking out bud.
Is this when your running livewells pumps?
No problem...sounds like you found your problem. 125 minutes of reserve is not enough to carry the load you are putting on the battery while fishing. This is the exact reason I recommended a battery with at least 200 minutes of reserve run time. Most people look at the cranking amp specs and often over look the reserve run time. High reserve ensures your battery will have the power needed to crank the motor when it comes time to start it.
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