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  1. #1
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    Ultradeck t clip question

    What's the proper way to use them? Here's a link for them.
    UltraDeck® T-Clip - 100 pc at Menards https://www.menards.com/main/p-1444439133028.htm
    Using the fusion grade boards. UltraDeck® Fusion™ Composite Decking at Menards https://www.menards.com/main/p-1444441501696.htm
    Watched a couple videos, feel a little better that I'm not alone in this. Not that it helps.
    I put a stair/border board on, then the first deck board, surface screwed the side by the border board. (Which I found has to be pre drilled, otherwise the screw head mushrooms. Yes, I'm using the composite screws.) Put the clips on opposite side, put next deck board on. Put clips on opposite side, now some of the previous clips are no longer holding. It looks like it pulled away from first set of clips.
    Anyone have any experience with them? Is it a certain angle that you start the clips at? Am I over tightening the clips?
    The part of the job I wasn't worried about is kicking my BUTT!!!

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    #2

    I've watched this video multiple times. I'll try again tomorrow, at different angles.

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    #3
    Put a couple more boards down this morning. When they say "don't over tighten" they're not lying!
    Now I have two boards I'm probably going to take back off. Have a nice bow in the middle. Was still having problems getting the last two I did this morning under the clips, in the middle. When I stopped, I looked at them. Uuuggghh. That's gonna bother me.
    Never imagined this would be the tough part.

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    #4
    I tried them and then said screw it and just surfaced screwed them down with the composite screws to match. I hated using them!

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    #5
    IMG_20171016_184516911-700x700.jpg
    I contemplated surface screwing them also.
    Then I found a video where a guy used bar clamps. I went out and bought 4. Went alot better after that. Especially since I did it by myself.
    It was still time consuming.
    You did what I wanted to, a different color on part of it. To make it pop. I wanted to use a different color for the picture frame, and one dead Center down the middle.

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    #6
    Videos are helpful but are also misleading only showing perfect situations for the most part. There could be several issues here that may not be your fault...One that comes to mind is that if your joists were existing they may have bowed, cupped, or have situated themselves in a way that the surface is not perfectly perpendicular to the deck top surface...causing the invisible fastener not to engage smoothly into the gap in the side of the board. Another issue that you may be facing is that the joists may not be crowned in a good fashion if there are crowns at all..crowns next to dips are not good and produce an uneven look in your deck boards. Another would be that the joists are more than 16" on center...not recommended for more than 16...installing composite decking is not for just anyone....we are factory certified installers by Timbertech and Azek corp.. Azek being the front runner on 100% composite decking with no wood bi products....wow!!! it is difficult to install it when it is in excess of 95 degrees outside and be able to account for expansion and contraction issues as the weather turns colder after finished!... Sometimes a surface screw with a plug is needed... steps are never installed with the hidden fasteners in our systems as they most always fail to keep the boards aligned as they tend to slip from the invisible fasteners.. borders also do the same thing...Cortex screws with plugs and Top lock colored screws are used in "iffy" places throughout as a result from previous learning curves. I hope that this helps some!

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    #7
    My existing joists were 2' on Center. Instead of removing and re positioning, and adding some, I added in between each one. Their now roughly 12" oc.
    Yes, some are either crowned differently or have sagged. That was an issue with using the hidden fasteners. I added extra support under the deck.
    I'm now on the stairs, the directions call for the stringers to be 8" oc. That's alot of lumber. Got all the stringers cut. Gonna pour a small pad, to support the ends of stairs.
    Oh, when I removed the old stairs, the posts wiggled easily. And one side was lower than the other. They where not in concrete. They are now.
    I'm picture framing the stair treads, risers also. That's not turning out as good as I'd wanted. Then again I'm using a small battery saw or a table saw. Screenshot_20171016-020352-700x700.jpg something like this

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    #8
    Nice! A chop saw would help immensely on the stair treads! If you only have a few...try clamping a speed square to the boards and using it as a guide with your skill saw...best of luck!

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    #9
    Yes, the videos by the manufacturers show the "best of" conditions. A chop saw would have been sweet!
    I made the best of it though. Progress so far.
    IMG_20171028_161142185-700x700.jpgIMG_20171028_161149738-700x700.jpgIMG_20171028_161133121-700x700.jpg
    I didn't realize how yellow those post lights had gotten, till looking at these pictures, uggh.

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    #10
    Looks really nice! Suggestion....cover the outside of the stringers with the same material as the outer band and also cover the last bit of 4x4 below the bottom post skirts at the bottom step...

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    #11
    Thank you. I agree about covering the stringers. I've been overruled by wife. I had lattice over it, in a triangle shape, which enclosed the steps. To keep our dogs from getting under it. She wants it back up. I'm trying to figure out what to do, so where both happy.
    Same material as outer band on stringers, then lattice over that?
    As for the bottom of the 4x4, do you recommend same material? Or split a 4x4 PVC sleeve, like the small chunk laying on the ground in middle picture, and secure it?