I'm running a helix 7 DI on my bow and was wondering for those who use their fish finder for drop shotting what settings you use?
Speed setting?
Clear view or Max mode?
What frequency?
I'm running a helix 7 DI on my bow and was wondering for those who use their fish finder for drop shotting what settings you use?
Speed setting?
Clear view or Max mode?
What frequency?
Speed=fastest
Switchfire=Max with highest Sensitivity setting without too much clutter
Frequency=200/455 kHz if using the standard transducer or the XTM 9 DI 25 T.
Wayne Purdum
Charlottesville, Va.
Helix 12 CHIRP MEGA+ SI G3N/G4N, Helix 15 CHIRP MEGA SI+ GPS G4N
SOLIX 12 SI/G3, Helix 8 CHIRP MEGA SI+ G4N, Ultrex 80/LINK, MEGA360,
MEGA LIVE, LIVE TL
I do 2d and DI split on my Helix 12, I can see the bait on the DI as well as the 2d plus a better view of the structure. Here's a pretty good video from Zona.
Excellent, thanks.
I tried this and for the life of me could not get it to work on my Helix 7
Do you think the screen is to small for this???
What depth? It takes practice to understand the cone coverage of the sonar pulse.
Nitro z21
scroll speed = 10
max mode
200 khz (175-225 with chirp)
For me I like the speed on 1, on 2D sonar I use 12-13 for sensitivity, clear mode and 200khz. I zoom out my map to 100ft as well. With this setup I can see my line, lure, weight and swivel on my drop shot just fine in depths up to 50ft.
2021 Skeeter ZX225
2021 Yamaha SHO 225 VF225LA
I pretty much do what Zona did on my H10di, scroll speed at 10, set the depth limit to about 10' deeper than what I'm fishing, Max mode because I'm normally 30'+, and sensitivity pretty low I'm thinking around 4. But I use 83/200 because a lot of times by bait will drift out of the 200 cone and with 83/200 I can see it farther out.
Thanks everyone, I will try again Sunday.
I was thinking about making another topic about interference but I will ask here.
I'm running two fish finders, one at the console and one off the bow mount trolling motor, when they are both running both will have lines running down them but as soon as I turn one off
the other will work again....any way to fix this?
The units are a 7 DI G2 and the other is a 7 SI G2
If they are both on at the same time you will get cross talk anytime they are in water that is deeper than the distance between the two transducers. As the cones circle they cross one another which causes the lines. Put the console unit in standby when you get up to fish and you won't have that problem, plus it saves battery, unless you run both at different frequencies (ie 83 at console and 200 at bow or vise versa). As far as your drop shot settings, everyone has their own method but I found the one in the video I posted to work best for me. I don't have Chirp so I run 83/200 at the TM. Of course you will have to tweek sensitivity and contrast in different waters. Keep playing with it and you'll find the magic spot, when you do it is magic. Nothing like watching your bait fall and seeing a fish come up and check it out and catching it, if they don't bite raise it and see if they follow or drop it and see if they follow. It is heartbreaking to see one come up and your screen turn red while they study your bait then it drops back down or it studies it and you raise it only to have the fish follow it up to check it out and then go back down. It's definitely fun to watch.
Last edited by Cestratton; 10-19-2017 at 09:58 PM.
Also remember you need to drop your bait directky below your TM especially on 200khz and it takes a seconds for the cone to pick it up on the fall. So if you're in shallow water it's even more imperative to be right under the transducer. I'm normally 20'+ but I use 83/200 especially if I do my drop and the boat is still moving forward from being on the TM or if it's windy and I get blown off my "drop". With the 83/200 I can still get enough of a faint line depending on how far my drop is away from my transducer so i know where my bait is in the water column. Now a flutter spoon is a whole different story, that thing will show up early in the drop but because of its flutter it eventually disappears until it settles and you move on top of it.
I want to know what I am seeing is directly below me so i don't use 83/200. If you're in deep enough water you don't have to drop it directly in the cone as it will up the bait as it gets deeper.
I have a tendency to pay too much attention to my graph and not notice that the boat has drifted away from my bait so when that happens in shallower water I can still get a glimpse of the bait.Originally Posted by TroyBoy30
i watch the line. of course now i have spot lock which makes it much easier
I'm new to vertical fishing, deep water, and sophisticated electronics. I'm like glued to that thing watching my bait and fish, next thing I know I'll look up and I've drifted way away from where I doped so I'm constantly trolling back to find where I was. I just can't keep my eyes off the screen but I'm learning and it'll take time. Where I'm from 12' was deep now I've got to learn this deep vertical stuff on Table Rock and Bull Shoals, it's been a huge turn around for me learning new techniques.
i was in the same boat. i grew up fishing clarks hill for largemouth. all we did was cast to shore. I now live on lanier and fish for spots. my boat is never in less than 20 foot and you only cast to shore if you don't want to catch fish. I picked up the deep video game fishing very quickly and now anything to do with it is my strength and favorite way to fish. I always have my bow into the wind and watch where my line is. with drop shotting and the weight on the bottom the line will show you where your bait is. boat control is the hardest part to learn IMO. if you ever get down this way, i'll trade ya a trip on lanier for one either of those lakes
Cool!!
Reply With Quote