Lost slow speed on trolling motor

[bnt55]

Got out on the water this morning and found out my Motorguide pro series 6700 trolling motor will only run on speeds 3-5....the lower 2 speeds don't work. I am guessing it is the selector switch in the foot pedal ?? I am heading to Michigan on a fishing trip this Thursday and need my trolling motor!! Some help diagnosing this please. Of course this might be a good opportunity to upgrade my trolling motor

[CatFan]

Likely speed coil.

[billnorman1]

This might help:

[Ranger-85]

I'm 74 and old School ,don't need tat LOL

[bnt55]

How hard is it to replace high speed windings? I replaced the commutator this spring and it was a pain but not horrible.

[CatFan]

How hard is it to replace high speed windings? I replaced the commutator this spring and it was a pain but not horrible.

Pretty well the same.

[bnt55]

I'm going to pull the lower unit apart today, will it be visually apparent that the windings are bad? There is an off hand chance that I jacked it up by keeping the trolling motor plugged in while the boat was on the charger

[CatFan]

I'm going to pull the lower unit apart today, will it be visually apparent that the windings are bad? There is an off hand chance that I jacked it up by keeping the trolling motor plugged in while the boat was on the charger

I'd search and see how to test the motor. John has posted the method many times.

[billnorman1]

I'm 74 and old School ,don't need tat LOL

I'm 75 and I was just trying to help, but if you're used to the button on the right side, there's nothing I can do for that..LOL

[Bradrodfish]

Disconnect all the wires in the head where the indicator is and apply voltage to each of the wires. black negative. Touch the red blue and yellow wire with either 12 or 24 which every is easy to do. If the motor runs when the red blue and yellow is touched then the foot pedal selector switch is bad. If it does not run the comp cap speed coil is back. that is inside the motor in the piece that is behind the prop.

I'd search and see how to test the motor. John has posted the method many times.

[bnt55]

I went ahead and pulled the lower motor housing and ohm tested the armature....everything checked out good. I am 99.99% sure it's the selector switch. That being said what is the part number for the Motorguide pro series 6700 selector switch? Serial # 9B456035

[CaseyCreekKy]

MHF15001T. From ur info. Pro series 6700. There is pro series 6700d

[CaseyCreekKy]

MHF15001T. From ur info. Pro series 6700. There is pro series 6700d

Alt Part Number Description Price Qty on Hand [X] Close MHF15001T-0087 SWITCH ASY-ROTARY (MERCURY OEM BRAND) $12.65 5
14	MLP04601	RING, Retaining

[Jonestrollingmotor]

The speed coil has nothing to do with the armature. It is the windings behind the brush card. It is checked as posted above.
John

[bnt55]

Thanks for the replies, I replaced the selector switch and it still is missing the first 2 speeds, so that means the comm cap needs to be replaced....AGAIN. When I pulled the lower unit apart there was alot of rust dust and some very small metal shavings inside the housing. I know at one point it had gotten moisture in it, I then replaced the comm cap and resealed it and it worked fine until now. Not sure why the commutator doesn't last, it looks brand new still. Still cheaper than buying another trolling motor.

[Jonestrollingmotor]

Thanks for the replies, I replaced the selector switch and it still is missing the first 2 speeds, so that means the comm cap needs to be replaced....AGAIN. When I pulled the lower unit apart there was alot of rust dust and some very small metal shavings inside the housing. I know at one point it had gotten moisture in it, I then replaced the comm cap and resealed it and it worked fine until now. Not sure why the commutator doesn't last, it looks brand new still. Still cheaper than buying another trolling motor.

It would concern me if I found small metal shavings in the lower unit when pulled apart. Also, not sure what you're calling the commutator, but I think you have parts names mixed up. The commutator is the copper bars on the end of the armature. If this goes bad, you have more problems than just loosing a couple of speeds. Many things can burn the resistor windings in the comcap, including running for an extended period of time on high speeds, burying the prop in brush or mud (anything to slow the rotation of the armature), and running the lower unit out of water.
John

[bnt55]

Well that makes sense as I have done all 3!! I picked up a new comm cap today from a local guy and it came with a few extra pieces that I don't remember seeing the last time I replaced the cap. Can anyone tell me if I need these for the install...There is a white plastic washer, a copper bushing and what looks to be a spare shaft seal?

[Jonestrollingmotor]

Don't know why the com cap comes with those. That is the com cap bushing, a prop seal, and a spacer to keep line out of the seals. The new cap has a new bushing, so it's not needed. The new cap has both seals in it, so it's not needed. The spacer goes on top of the seal after you get the cap installed. It fits tight in the hole the seals are in to keep line/debris out of the seal.
John

[Ranger-85]

Originally Posted by Ranger-85
I'm 74 and old School ,don't need tat LOL
I'm 75 and I was just trying to help, but if you're used to the button on the right side, there's nothing I can do for that..LOL

Yes Sir Bill , I do have a tererova but I'm skerred to stand on the dock and try and send it out and bring it back , can;t swim that far LOL