Ranger Trail Surge Brakes

[David g]

I have a new to me 2002 Ranger 185VS with the Ranger Trail trailer with surge brakes. Have been addressing issues with the boat since it had been sitting idle for ten years and have everything on the boat itself working well but I am pretty sure the trailer brakes are not functioning because the brake discs have a coating of rust on them. Also, when stopping and starting, there is a pretty abrupt clunk from the brake system. I did not receive an owners manual for the boat or trailer and have been watching Youtube to gain a better understanding of what needs attention on the trailer. Got the "Cool Hubs" down and it appears the bearings are fine and need the fluid changed but not much to be found on the type of specific brakes on my trailer on the Tube. There is a cylindric switch with a push lever that I can push and turn for about 20 degrees to the left that I believe may also serve as the access to the brake fluid in the master cylinder. Ready to start the project to get the brakes working and also perform bearing maintenence but my question:

1). Is the cylindric knob behind the ball receiver used to provide access to the brake fluid reservoir?

2). What is the process for opening (may just be stuck)?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

David G

[huntertn]

The twist knob can act as a manual brake lockout to allow you to back the trailer without the brakes being applied. Sometimes it works sometimes it gets rusted up and does not really work well. There is a brake lockout solenoid too that works off the backup lights on your tow vehicle (5-wire flat connector).

There is usually writing on the top of the knob. It should twist and lift up to give access to the top of master cylinder. Go to page 11 in the PDF.

Here is a PDF of the manual. I think it is an A-60 but you will be able to tell by looking at the picture.
http://www.trailmastertrailers.com/p...aintenance.pdf

[David g]

Thanks so much Huntern. The PDF was great. The twist knob was sort of frozen but I took it off and removed the master cylinder. It was indeed in sad shape and the actuator rod was frozen inside and the fluid looked like Iron Sulfide from a sour oil well. The gasket surface on the reservoir was extremely corroded as was the cylinder inside. I was able to disassemble but found a new master cylinder assembly on the internet and ordered. I also removed the RH side caliper and the fluid that dripped out of the hose fitting after I removed was extremely clean. Pads looked like new and I also removed the hub and bearings looked good. My plan is to install the master cylinder and disconnect the other brake like at the caliper having both of them open, fill the new master cylinder and bleed all of the ugly stuff out until I get clear fluid out of the hose fittings, then attach to the calipers and bleed again. The information available here is so useful and thanks again.
David G

[billnorman1]

You might blow compressed air into the caliper bleeds. It should force any fluid out of the lines backward to get nasty fluid out and actuate the caliper too. Don't do this with the caliper off the rotor.

[David g]

You might blow compressed air into the caliper bleeds. It should force any fluid out of the lines backward to get nasty fluid out and actuate the caliper too. Don't do this with the caliper off the rotor.

After consideration, I thought it might be a good idea to disconnect the lines from the calipers and use a compressor to blow forward because the fluid is black towards the front end of the system rather than blow it back to the rear of the system. Of course I will do this without the master cylinder connected. Thinking this would keep the nasty juice from going any further to the rear.

[coybock]

I've got the identical issue with the 70 LP TDE on my 2009 ranger trail trailer. So if the slam sound occurs, it doesn't mean the actuator is ruined? The guy that owned it before me did no maintenance. I had to replace a hub because he put the lugs on backwards and they ate into the hub. Noticed when I got home from Fork that one of my tires was leaning inside the fender

[CatFan]

I've got the identical issue with the 70 LP TDE on my 2009 ranger trail trailer. So if the slam sound occurs, it doesn't mean the actuator is ruined? The guy that owned it before me did no maintenance. I had to replace a hub because he put the lugs on backwards and they ate into the hub. Noticed when I got home from Fork that one of my tires was leaning inside the fender

The slamming can be caused by low fluid, which can from a leak or worn pads. Some jolting is inevitable with surge brakes, but you wouldn't say slamming is normal

[bolson]

I have a 2005 single axle Ranger Trail. I have the same clunking going on. All of the fluid has drained because of a bad seal or leak in hose. Mechanic is telling me $600.00 to fix/replace entire assembly. It has been doing this for quite sometime and I have been putting up with it. Only downside is, I don't have brakes. Pulling with a Tundra so not really an issue. Does the $600.00 sound too much?

[Islands]

I have a 2005 single axle Ranger Trail. I have the same clunking going on. All of the fluid has drained because of a bad seal or leak in hose. Mechanic is telling me $600.00 to fix/replace entire assembly. It has been doing this for quite sometime and I have been putting up with it. Only downside is, I don't have brakes. Pulling with a Tundra so not really an issue. Does the $600.00 sound too much?

If it is $600 for a fully functional brake "system" with some sort of warranty it sounds like a good deal. If it is $600 to replace the actuator and then go from there to get to an operational system, I would pass.

[blkfalc4]

No way on $600 if you have any sort of mechanical aptitude. You can replace the master cylinder yourself. Not too hard to do.

http://www.easternmarine.com/tie-dow...der-kit-47267k

[David g]

I have a 2005 single axle Ranger Trail. I have the same clunking going on. All of the fluid has drained because of a bad seal or leak in hose. Mechanic is telling me $600.00 to fix/replace entire assembly. It has been doing this for quite sometime and I have been putting up with it. Only downside is, I don't have brakes. Pulling with a Tundra so not really an issue. Does the $600.00 sound too much?

My brake system is a UFP A-60. The master cylinder I ordered was 40 some dollars and shipping was nearly 15 all total of 55 bucks to replace from Trucksandtrailerparts.com . My calipers were in fine condition and pads looked like new. I sure wouldn't pay 600 bucks to redo but I am a do-it-yourself type of guy. Really, not that hard to do.. I bought Lucas Hub Oil for my hubs, bearings were good, Dot 3 brake fluid and the master cylinder, all for less than $75.00. Labor is mine and free plus I learn how that stuff works. I might need to buy a new reverse solenoid as it has some rust on the outside but I tested and it works. Should have the master cylinder here from UPS on Tuesday and I will be back in the saddle.

[David g]

Quick update on the UFP A-60 surge brakes on my single axle trailer. Received the new master cylinder from trailerandtruckparts.com and it was a perfect fit. Everything went back together in the tongue easily. When I bled the brakes I enlisted the help of my neighbor and I used masking tape to keep the lock lever depressed to free up one hand. I first bled the line immediately aft of the MC until fluid was clear. I then connected the long line going to the calipers with the line disconnected at the calipers separately and bled until the fluid was clear on both sides. I then connected the lines to the calipers and bled the long line first, then the short line. Tested and I now have brakes. One caveat is that while the lug nuts on the RH wheel came loose easily, the nuts on the left side were so friggin tight that I was only able to loosen one nut. The PO had taken the boat to a tire shop and had new tires installed before I finalized the deal and apparently some num nuts at the tire shop installing on the left side turned up the air on his impact driver. I jumped with both feet on the lug wrench with my neighbor holding the wrench horizontal and still couldn't get them to budge. This is rediculous but what I have left to deal with.

Anyway, hooked up the trailer and made the twenty mile trek to lake Konowa and looked at the discs when I arrived yesterday, shiny and warm with no brake fluid leaks. Fished for a few hours, caught three with one nice one. Loaded up and came home. Braking is a notable difference and backing up a hill is a problem, (I have the five pin on the trailer hooked to to the four pin on the truck) and I tried turning the twist knob on the trailer to the disconnect position but I'd doesn't seem to function as it should.

Left to do is acquire a five pin round adapter to my five pin trailer flat connecter so the solenoid will engage and perhaps investigate why the twist knob wouldn't disengage the brakes, although it seemed the knob wouldn't turn very far because the brakes may have been engaged when I attempted to use it. Also gotta get those damn lug nuts loose, stupid azz tire jockey.

[billnorman1]

I use a half inch breaker bar and a 3/4" socket to loosen idiot-tight lug nuts. If that doesn't work I have a 3/4 inch breaker bar and 3/4" impact socket. If that doesn't work I have a 3 foot cheater bar that fits the 3/4 inch breaker bar. I used to work on V W's and needed it to tighten and loosen the flywheel nut, 325 foot pounds or so. I built some racing motors and only ever had that nut get loose once, on my first stocker.
I guarantee I could get those pesky nuts loose or break the studs trying.
Glad to hear you're having trouble backing up. Now fix the wiring and you're all set. If you cross "T" the 4 pin connector, plug the brown wire pin from the truck with the purple wire on the trailer, you should be able to back up.
WITH THE LIGHTS ON

[David g]

I use a half inch breaker bar and a 3/4" socket to loosen idiot-tight lug nuts. If that doesn't work I have a 3/4 inch breaker bar and 3/4" impact socket. If that doesn't work I have a 3 foot cheater bar that fits the 3/4 inch breaker bar. I used to work on V W's and needed it to tighten and loosen the flywheel nut, 325 foot pounds or so. I built some racing motors and only ever had that nut get loose once, on my first stocker.
I guarantee I could get those pesky nuts loose or break the studs trying.
Glad to hear you're having trouble backing up. Now fix the wiring and you're all set. If you cross "T" the 4 pin connector, plug the brown wire pin from the truck with the purple wire on the trailer, you should be able to back up.

Yea, I was happy I had trouble backing up as well....certainly meant the brakes are working as intended. Great hint to cross the purple wire with the brown with running lights on. Makes perfect sense but I sure didn't think of doing that. I love this site and I also know that when we work on our boats and motors, we learn and I can afford to have them in tip top shape. I have a brute of an air compressor in my shop and a pretty stout 1/2" impact wrench so I will see if that unscrews or breaks them and if not, I have a brass 36" cheater pipe to break or bust em. This is exactly why I like to do my own work. At least if I screw something up, I am not paying someone for screwing something up. Thanks for the input.