Alright guys so running lights were not working but all others like brakes, turn signals, caution, etc were working fine. Found a blown fuse in the truck and replaced it and all worked well. Then once I towed it the fuse blew again leaving the situation the same as before. Any ideas?
Phillipians 4:13-For I can do all things through Christ which strengthen me
Check the wiring harness all through the trailer. Anywhere the harness is touching metal, or a routing hole can wear the insulation off the wire if it doesn't have any protection. This will create a short and in turn blow the fuse. I had a similar issue with a turn/brake light. Finally crawled under the trailer, worked my way back and found the wear spot. You can probably just tape it up good and should take of the problem.
This^^^. Often factory trailer wiring is just ran through loops welded to the trailer with no rubber grommets and it rubs through. Also check if there are any t-taps where clearance lights are wired in. Notorious trouble makers. If a wire is rubbed through you can seal it up or splice in a new section. If you cant use a rubber grommet a dab of silicone can protect the wiring as well.
Roy
2020 Triton 18 Trx
Mercury 200 Pro XS V8
Bravo FS 24P Prop
Atlas 6” jp
Dual Humminbird Helix 10 MEGA SI
Minnkota Ultrex.
Thoroughly inspect the Brown wire, as this is the circuit you are looking at.
Originally Posted by billnorman1
Check it everywhere the brown wire touches the trailer, Even where it passes through the frame to the side marker lights... I have seen this many times.
Marks Props 317-398-9294, 1850 East 225 South, Shelbyville, Indiana 46176 propellerman59@gmail.com http://www.marksprops.com/index.html
So this trailer is not a c frame it is completely enclosed. Any ideas where to start. It's a 2008 marine master/triton
Phillipians 4:13-For I can do all things through Christ which strengthen me
Anywhere there is a splice for a clearance light. They likely used t taps and those cause problems over time. Otherwise if a wire rubbed through in the frame you wont be able to see it. I completely rewired my trailer and soldered and heat shrink sealed every connection. Surprised the lights even worked before i did it honestly.
Roy
2020 Triton 18 Trx
Mercury 200 Pro XS V8
Bravo FS 24P Prop
Atlas 6” jp
Dual Humminbird Helix 10 MEGA SI
Minnkota Ultrex.
Some where the brown wire is touching ground blowing the fuse. What you may have to do is either replace the wiring as a whole or just the brown wire. Look for worn or bare wires where the wires go into and out of the frame at each light starting at the plug and working your way to each light. If you know how to use a multimeter then you should be able to do this. Good luck
Okay so I visually checked everything last night and I can not find a bare spot or an exposed wire anywhere that I can see. I looked at all the lights and all the wires as far as i could see them into the trailer. My thought was a multi meter but if it blows a fuse then wont that stop all power to that wire so it will not register? There are a lot of t taps especially for the rear lights so I guess my next step if the multimeter does not work will be to take all of those apart and reconnect in a different way.
Phillipians 4:13-For I can do all things through Christ which strengthen me
So after researching a little I have seen people talk about hooking your lights up to a battery charger if they keep blowing the fuse that way you can use a multimeter to narrow down where the short might be. Has anyone tried this? Just trying to figure out how to do it and if it will mess my lights up...
Phillipians 4:13-For I can do all things through Christ which strengthen me
For what it's worth-- odds are this is just the first of more issues to come.. I would make it a winter project and re-wire the trailer with good splices and heat shrink tubing (marine grade) -- making sure to use grommets..
IMO most boat trailers are simply not wired to be used in a wet environment.. They do it fast and cheap.
Do This^^ If you are not familiar with proper wiring procedures, check with you buddies for help. Start with a complete new wiring harness and don't try to patch what is there. May be a good time to upgrade all lights. As for the battery charger idea, it is something I would never do.
You could hook a battery or a battery charger up to the trailer. Run the minus lead to the trailer frame. If you hook the plus lead to any other wire EXCEPT THE WHITE ONE, something should light up. If there's a short on the brown wire one of two things will happen. The wire will spark at the short or it will melt.
You could have a bad bulb that has vibrated apart and is shorted. You could also hook a fuse in either of the battery leads that you could replace until you find the short.
Yep. In my experience, when you start having trailer light issues that changing a bulb won't cure, it ends up being faster to just rip everything out and put brand new lights and wiring in.
2015 Yellowfin 21 with 2014 Yamaha SHO 250
Okay so plugged them in tonight to my truck ( first time to be hooked to this truck) and they stayed on. Well half anyway. The drivers side of the vehicle on the trailer worked all the way down but the other side stopped at the first marker light. It worked but no lights after that worked. So does that mean there is a short somewhere between that marker light and the first light it comes to after that?
Phillipians 4:13-For I can do all things through Christ which strengthen me
The word SHORT in electrical terms means an unwanted path for electrical current. A short usually is manifested in blown fuses or melted items. The term OPEN is NO path for electrical current. It sounds like you had a short and now have an open.
If the taillight on that side was broken and shorted, it MAY now be open. You should check the taillight on that side.
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