Adding Graph at Console

[Sharp1C]

As title states, I am going to add a Helix 9 to run Lakemaster next to my HDS 9.

Question: How is everyone wiring their graphs? Straight to battery or is there sufficient power source inside console?
With that said, what is best way to get inside the console? I currently have the HDS mounted on a BassBoat Technologies mount if that matters.

Also debating on converting to a dual mount setup or switch one over to a RAM style mount.....any suggestions and opinions appreciated.

[DREWTICK]

As title states, I am going to add a Helix 9 to run Lakemaster next to my HDS 9.

Question: How is everyone wiring their graphs? Straight to battery or is there sufficient power source inside console?
With that said, what is best way to get inside the console? I currently have the HDS mounted on a BassBoat Technologies mount if that matters.

Also debating on converting to a dual mount setup or switch one over to a RAM style mount.....any suggestions and opinions appreciated.

The wiring inside the console is intended for one graph, I would not recommend running 2 units on it. to remove the console dash you have to remove the 7 or 9 screws under the button caps, the dash will then slide back and lean on the back of the steering wheel
if you dont have the integrated wiring system I would wire the new unit straight to the battery or run a 8 to 10awg wire fused at the battery and add a small blue sea fuse box in the driver rod locker then wire the unit to that and you can add more accessories to it later.
the Phoenix dual dash is a great option and Precision Sonar also makes a heavy duty mount for it, if you choose the Ram instead I would recommend the Swing arm by Ram and Phoenix has a spacer for it to get it to the proper height.

[DREWTICK]

Is the integrated wiring system the master on off switch?

I have a 920 and mounted two 12s on bow and have interference we my trolling motor for about the first hour of use on power 9 or less, on 10 its clear, I am thinking 10 draws enough ground or power to be clear, 9 or less does not until after being on the water for a hour or so, any input?

I am considering running pos neg to the bow from the battery but I like that master switch we have so I dont have to turn off each graph etc.

the integrated wiring is on the master switch but is controlled by the dash power switch that activates a 30amp relay that powers the fuse box
a solid power and ground may help the interference but many times its caused by bleed over or cross talk where the transducer cable is routed along with the trolling motor cables, you may try some ferrite resisters on the transducer cable and rerouting the cable along the TM mount instead of the cables if thats where it is now.
https://www.amazon.com/Ferrite-Core-...Y7BJ3P1BE6EC4X

[TroyBoy30]

do yourself a favor and run a new dedicated fuse block directly to the battery. do not use the boat wiring

[DREWTICK]

Jeff your 920 should already have exactly what Troy is talking about, Phoenix uses 8awg wire from the master disconnect at the battery to a blue sea fuse block with a 10 awg dedicated ground
but I would run your own wires from the fuse block to each unit

[Sharp1C]

The wiring inside the console is intended for one graph, I would not recommend running 2 units on it. to remove the console dash you have to remove the 7 or 9 screws under the button caps, the dash will then slide back and lean on the back of the steering wheel
if you dont have the integrated wiring system I would wire the new unit straight to the battery or run a 8 to 10awg wire fused at the battery and add a small blue sea fuse box in the driver rod locker then wire the unit to that and you can add more accessories to it later.
the Phoenix dual dash is a great option and Precision Sonar also makes a heavy duty mount for it, if you choose the Ram instead I would recommend the Swing arm by Ram and Phoenix has a spacer for it to get it to the proper height.

Thanks Drew, I decided to go Dual BBT mount. I have the ACC switch not in use would this not be a good option for the added Helix? As far as adding a new fuse block in the compartment, where would the "ground" be hooked up? I like how I have everything now on master switch if I add a new fuse block I would need to add another switch to kill power to that fuse block as well.

[john721]

I run both mine off the same power never had a issue

[DREWTICK]

Thanks Drew, I decided to go Dual BBT mount. I have the ACC switch not in use would this not be a good option for the added Helix? As far as adding a new fuse block in the compartment, where would the "ground" be hooked up? I like how I have everything now on master switch if I add a new fuse block I would need to add another switch to kill power to that fuse block as well.

you could run it off that switch but I would not recommend it, you could have electrical interference and its real easy to accidentally turn off the unit by without a proper shutdown. if you added a fuse block the best place is in the locker right in front of the console, you could still control the power from the main power switch by adding a 30amp relay, I could make you a diagram.

[Sharp1C]

you could run it off that switch but I would not recommend it, you could have electrical interference and its real easy to accidentally turn off the unit by without a proper shutdown. if you added a fuse block the best place is in the locker right in front of the console, you could still control the power from the main power switch by adding a 30amp relay, I could make you a diagram.

Good point, I have ran into that twice already with current graphs by accidentally turning power switch of at console panel. I would appreciate any help, if a diagram would be easier to explain.

[TroyBoy30]

Jeff your 920 should already have exactly what Troy is talking about, Phoenix uses 8awg wire from the master disconnect at the battery to a blue sea fuse block with a 10 awg dedicated ground
but I would run your own wires from the fuse block to each unit

thats a nice factory addition and was exactly what i meant. the only difference in mine is we ran 6 gauge from the battery to the block and 8 gauge to all units. this runs my electonics, led lights, nmea, network switch etc

[KevinM]

Nice setup

[DEFMP]

What transducer are you running on your trolling motor? Not the 360, but any other transducers?

[DEFMP]

If I use the transducer mounted under my tm it interferes with the 360 causing the wagon wheel look... I tried yesterday changing the sonar freq to 460 so it wouldnt compete with the 455 360 with no luck. According to humminbird the 360 interference with the si transducer shouldnt happen since its not on the 455 freq. using the rear mounted is fine and keeps it consistent for knowing Im already past what Im seeing. Im going to remove the tm mounted one.

I believe you are probably trying to use a DI transducer on your tm, correct? That's why you're getting interference between the 360 runnin 455 and your DI ducer running 455. You don't need a DI transducer, the 360 provides a DI view. The idea is to either use the ultrex's us2 sonar capabilities, or get a 83/200 trolling motor specific external transducer. You need to ensure the transducers are trolling motor specific, they contain additional rfi blocking mechanisms.

The tm interference with my side imaging goes away after x amount of time on the water, so thats the confusing part. It is only there early in the day.

Could we see a picture of the interference you're speaking of? It sounds like you're picking up plankton, which is normal for early morning/evening readings from your unit.

[TroyBoy30]

360 doesn't provide di any longer for current units since they added a dedicated di crystal . the unit has a setting to disable imaging automatically. you can put di on 800 and also run 360. only the di units have a trolling motor specific transducer. most of us use the si transducer. have you tried the tmc1?


https://www.humminbird.com/Products/TMC-1/

they also have a new piece to get rid of the interference that travels through onboard chargers

[DREWTICK]

with photo bucket dead how do people share pics? I have posted pics on fb.

.

you can upload pics directly to the forum you just have to keep the size down, anything less than 1000 pixels will work fine, most phone pics will be over 4000 pixels and have to be resized, there are many phone apps for that.

[TroyBoy30]

the wagon wheel you described on 360 is normally from having si or di on the same freq. thats not interference its cross talk

having them connected to a separate battery from the trolling motor is always recommended but it doesn't mean you won't have interference. you could have power wires too close together, or coiled instead of figure 8 or a ton of other things. No boat or install is the same. what works for one may not work for another and may actually make it worse.

[DEFMP]

Post #5

[Jeff from Iowa]

Post #5

yep line 2 of post #5

[TroyBoy30]

I have not SAID a thing about wagon wheel interference in this thread, that is OLD OLD news and long understood and gone, your talking about a 6-8 week old post it seems.

Do you read any of the posts in a thread like this one or just reply???? I just posted to you in the VERY post above your latest that I had BATTERIES on my deck... That should tell you there are NO wires coiled bla bla bla...

maybe you should start your own thread in the humminbird section instead of hijacking one? gets a tad confusing

just because you have the batteries on the deck doesn't mean you will avoid issues. youre getting interference from something. you simply need to go through each step 1 by 1 till you find it. no 2 installs are the same and what works for one person may not work for you and may even make things worse

its not a ultrex issue. the pulse tech has been around since they went with infinite speed control.

ive got 2 solix 15's, ultrex and 360 and have zero interference with nothing installed to avoid it

humminbird will walk you through the solutions 1 by 1. some of them include

tmc1
remove onboard charger
ground wire between starting and trolling batteries
ground wire from trolling motor to batteries
ferrite rings
onboard charger ring
fuse inside head of trolling motor
figure 8 cables
etc
etc

we even ran my cables down the trolling motor cables, which is normally a no no, but it works

[Jeff from Iowa]

Ive got it narrowed down. If I disconnect the ultrex cable it goes away.