Transom Cap

[magnumb]

Any tips for resealing the transom top cap?
Should I just use life Calk around perimeter and pull and reseal screws or should I pull the cap?....would pulling it damage any of the gelcoat?

[pmgoffjr]

Depends on the year your boat was built.

[Lea]

What do you mean, Pat? Explain how the different years will need different sealants or whatever, please !

[grout-scout]

I'd sure like to know what all is built into the top cap of a 2005 model. Are the livewells built into the top cap or are they anchored to the hull. I've been trying to think of a way to split mine, but too many unknowns to just start pulling stuff apart.

[pmgoffjr]

I am not versed enough on Tennessee boats but earlier Arkansas boats were fiberglassed together. Later models were redesigned to use sikaflex to join cap to hull. If you're just keeping water out GE silicone would be my choice, something with a bit of flow to get into all the places it needs to. 4200 is too thick for me on that job.

[Lea]

Grout, what do you mean "split" yours? Don't you have the divider? My 05 does. If you are referrig to making it into two separate wells, that would be VERY complex. Over flow, pump out, aerator and Hydro systems, etc.... And that is only IF it could be done....

[grout-scout]

Grout, what do you mean "split" yours? Don't you have the divider? My 05 does. If you are referrig to making it into two separate wells, that would be VERY complex. Over flow, pump out, aerator and Hydro systems, etc.... And that is only IF it could be done....

Lol, I meant split the boat into 2 pieces so I can go after my wet foam. If I knew how it was made, I could make a plan. I have asked on numerous sites on the internet & Facebook and nobody seems to have been into one of these hulls. If I could take the topcap off, I'd fix this thing myself.


I just don't know what all is attached to the top cap.

[drdriver]

Mag, are you referring to the trim strip at the stern capping the edge, or do you mean the joint between the hull and top cap? If you're talking abou the trim strip, I used a piece of aluminum angle. I used the old OEM piece as a template and drilled/chamfered the holes. I used 4200 around the perimeter, and each screw hole. Each stainless screw then got 4200 on it as well. The only drawback was that the aluminum angle was about .015 thicker than the stock trim. It made the end caps somewhat difficult to get back on right. I had to grind some off of the aluminum strip to thin it down. BTW, there was just enough room at the top of my jack plate to allow the angle to slip in between the transom and the top edge of the plate.

[bruce']

Grout Scout
Call Johnson fiberglass in Burlesson He has done several

I have seen them done

seem to me they were set on top of the hull and there are screws around the cap into the hull. along with some kind of sealer.

[grout-scout]

Grout Scout
Call Johnson fiberglass in Burlesson He has done several

I have seen them done

seem to me they were set on top of the hull and there are screws around the cap into the hull. along with some kind of sealer.

I'll give them a call when I get a chance, thanks.

[Lea]

Grout...got ya! I was not sure what you meant. Let me know if Johnson's is not able to answer your questions. Former CS Manager at Champion might know....tho Johnson's sure should be able to help!

[magnumb]

Mag, are you referring to the trim strip at the stern capping the edge, or do you mean the joint between the hull and top cap? If you're talking abou the trim strip, I used a piece of aluminum angle. I used the old OEM piece as a template and drilled/chamfered the holes. I used 4200 around the perimeter, and each screw hole. Each stainless screw then got 4200 on it as well. The only drawback was that the aluminum angle was about .015 thicker than the stock trim. It made the end caps somewhat difficult to get back on right. I had to grind some off of the aluminum strip to thin it down. BTW, there was just enough room at the top of my jack plate to allow the angle to slip in between the transom and the top edge of the plate.

Just the stainless trim piece with 2 end caps. Why did you replace with a new alum piece?

[drdriver]

Couldn't find the OEM stainless strip. It was bent beyond repair from the previous owners attempt to re-seal. Also thought the thicker aluminum piece would add some rigidity and reduce any flex, thus enhancing the ability of the sealant to remain impervious to water intrusion.

[magnumb]

Pulled the trim and no sealant....but also looks to impervious to water.
Ended up just sealing just the screw holes with life caulk and throwing it back on. Wonder why some have exposed wood and some don't???

[Royjulius]

I sealed mine around the outside. Couldn't get it off without pulling the motor.

[magnumb]

I sealed mine around the outside. Couldn't get it off without pulling the motor.

This gets me thinking....why not also just seal around the jackplate...instead of pulling motor to reseal???

[grout-scout]

This gets me thinking....why not also just seal around the jackplate...instead of pulling motor to reseal???

Because you cant get to the inside of the plate. (Mine has a slot up the middle of it.)

[magnumb]

That stinks.

[Bruce2]

I have a seacast transom(solid composite) and i still seal my transom bolts, even though the seacast does not absorb water.

[magnumb]

Is that a aftermarket transom for your 1989 176?
I thought all composite transoms can still absorb water?