So the saga continues. I have a 1994 Venom 225 that has a crack in cylinder 2 intake side of the crankcase. I believe when the connecting rod let go it did the damage. It's not a hole but a crack but I'm sure it will leak over time. Is there any way to repair cracks in the crankcase, welding or some kind of compound? Otherwise I have no idea where to find a used part.
Thanks
Plenty of engines out there with just one bad hole that didn't lose a rod and damage the case....Check motors or motor parts for sale on the boards.
Most halves have to be matched/mated to insure main journals line up and are round(from factory). A good tech or shop can do that(there is a way) Usually replace block and front half as a matched set and be done with it and no hassles..
Last edited by omcforever; 09-21-2017 at 08:56 PM.
Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!
Originally Posted by Bassmeister
Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!
Worse case you could try applying MarineTex to the affected area (inside journal) and let it cure and assemble.
I would think about dye checking the case to make sure that was the only crack and to see exactly how big it is. Sometime the crack you see isn't the whole thing. At least that has been my experience with cast aluminum engine cases.
How do you dye test. I've never heard of this before?
Thanks
youtube will have lots of videos describing the process.
Basically you spay / brush on a pentating dye over the area to be checked. Allow it to soak in cracks then whipe it away. You then spray on a developer that will cause any dye left in the crack to show up. I think some dyes glow under UV light.
Can the crack not be tig welded up ??
Hard to weld aluminum and keep mating surfaces true or keep from distorting but can be done.
Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!
Like Axkiker said, dye penetrant test is applying a thin liquid (spray, brush, dip) then wipe off the excess then apply a developer to see cracks. Spotcheck and Zyglo are brands I have used and are made by Magnaflux. There is a fluorescent type and a red type you can use without a black light. You can get it in gallon cans or aerosol cans. You can usually find some type of dye check (CRC or Radnor) at the local welding supply house. But, it might be cheaper to call around to local machine shops to see what they would charge. You don't need much.
I have no expereince with this stuff but I have heard it does work. Still gonna have t get te part hot but 600 is a whole lot cooler than tig welding temps. Maybe notch out the crack and fill.
https://www.alumiweld.com/
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