I've looked at the owners galleries to get an idea but not much help. Mine has a 250 pro xs and 10" jack plate with 26 fury. I haven't looked at the setup to much but where is a good starting point. It's starts walking at 67. I can get it to 72 then it gets stupid. This was during me testing the boat out which I have now purchased it. I figured I'd wait till it was mine before I tried to straighten it out. Any help is appreciated.
Seat time is the only solution, I found if I was only 90% throttle after 66mph it was more controlable to learn,
next rooster tail only as high high as the top of the motor will help, over trimming was faster for me when my p2p was lower now cowl high rooster is faster and walks less
now the whole walking thing is the boat motor trying to pass the hull in addition to the boat tipping off the pad to one side of the v, as the water starts pushing on one side it makes more drag on that side making want to hook that way but that doesn't happen rite away since it bounced off the water and now the other side is loading up.
So if you can drive your truck sideways on gravel you will learn how to "keep the motor behind the hull" it isn't hard and if you have anyone who has a performance hull it will make your learning curve much faster. I taught myself in 40-45 hours of that probally 13 hours were up in the chine zone.
other hints are if it's walking a little and you twitch the stearing the wrong way or at the wrong time it will escalate, start lifting throttle rite away but don't shut the power off all the way. Ps nitro hulls are forgiving compared to others. Take your time have fun
Mercury 250 proxs 2B115089
There is chinewalk and there is violent chinewalk.
Seat time is part of it as it will always be there to some degree, in your case sounds like it maybe undriveable at full throttle. Setup is a big key. Start looking at engine height, your load in the boat (Batteries and tackle). If u can I always suggest trying a different prop to see if that helps.
I hear people say seat time only, but I have had 2 that I could not drive at full throttle. Changes to the setup got it where I could. In one case a prop change made a huge diff.
Bryan McDonough
2023 Nitro Z21 XL
Nitro Team
What's a good prop to pad height and good props run? I'm running the 25 fury @ 5750 rpms to 71 mph. I'm getting no lift. The chine walking gets bad at 70 and I've drove it to 72 but I can handle it fine @ 70. The handle will come to me but I'm seeing lots of people with similar boat hitting mid 70s. Can't get much help in setups page. I can get my hands on a tempest plus 25 and bravo 4 26 to try.
Well rumor has it that the fury likes 3.75" below pad,
tempest plus can be higher I have this don't know exactly where it is, like 1.2" up from flush on the jp
bravo 26 is supposed to be the ticket?
Mercury 250 proxs 2B115089
My 26 Fury likes 2.5" below pad. I have a 2012 Z8 250xs as well.
2020 Nitro Z21 Mercury 250 Pro XS 4S
12" Atlas Hydraulic
Dual 8' Power Pole Blades
Solix 15, Solix 12, Solix 10
Minn Kota Ultrex 112 Ipilot Link
Also op, can you tell us about your load? Fuel level, any power poles? Amount of gear one two or three people, livewells? I know if I drop my plate down some I have better results when I'm full up loaded, but half fuel is much different
Mercury 250 proxs 2B115089
When it's just me and 1/2 tank of gas and my gear I can run my plate a little higher. With a passenger I have to bury the plate and neither time do I get any lift. Even when I tried it out with nothing in the boat but me and 1/3 tank gas I still got no lift. With a passenger I get 69 until it's hard to handle. By myself I can drive it to 71-72 until it's hard yo handle. The handle will come to me but I'm looking to get my plate set close and right prop before I start working on the handle.
You will get more lift with the Tempest and I think the 25 will work well for you. Just make sure it's a good one and not out of wack or worn out.Originally Posted by moodyjeremy
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Well I'm going to guess your prop is no good, the fury suposibly needs to be reworked sooner than other props. If you can barrow either the 25 tempest or the 26bravo do it then start working. I say this cause if you can't get lift high or low got to start over
Mercury 250 proxs 2B115089
Ive seen you mention the 26 bravo to couple of people. Is there another site your on for nitro owners? I have my buddies 26 bravo to try now but it will be next week before I get to yo go try it.
No lift and 71 is pretty good, means when u get lift u'll be hitting 80..... Obviously you are getting some lift. Lets work on the chine walk first, raise the motor 1/4 inch at a time to see what helps, keep an eye on WP (>15psi at WOT).
My z21 wanted to chine pretty good, raised the motor and its now easily controllable.
Bryan McDonough
2023 Nitro Z21 XL
Nitro Team
It's running very flat. Water spraying out just in front of console until it finally gets out of the water a little. I've tried raising the motor for the handle. It helps a little with just me but if I have a passenger the more I raise the motor the lower the bow goes.
What is your prop to pad measurement? Definitely see if you can borrow a known good prop. just to see
Bryan McDonough
2023 Nitro Z21 XL
Nitro Team
I have a hydraulic plate so I haven't measured it yet. I just know with a passenger I have to lower it almost as
low as it will go.
Ditch the fury and get a 27p bravo. Have the extra vent holes added and choke it back down with 4 medium plugs. Should jump on plane and run 72. Eliminated the chine walk. On mine going to a 4 blade
Fish stick
I have very similar set up. Mine Z8 is a 2010 but with a 200 Pro XS. I have a 25p tempest plus with only one plug in it, a 10” bobs hydraulic jack plate. 36v trolling motor (so 4 batteries total,) and two 10ft Blades. Mine has always chine walked pretty bad around 65mph. I have tried a 24p & 25p Fury. I can’t remember right off what my P2P height is with my jack plate all the way down but I think it is 3 ¾”. For both the Fury and Tempest Plus I have found that as I get running my boat ran the fastest with my plate as low as it would go. If I’m running 64mph nice and smooth (good water psi) and try to raise my plate (even if I adjust the trim) my boat will slow.
I have tried many different things over the years with no real improvement. I think the first thing you need to invest in is a smart craft gage or vessel view mobile. I just bought the vessel view mobile connector last week but I haven’t been able to take my boat out yet to play. This is what I have been waiting for. Now I will be able to get accurate RPMs to make the appropriate changes. I have zero faith in my stock tach as the needle is always bouncing around.
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