Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Carrollton
    Posts
    398

    Drive shaft removal

    Johnson 1995 225HP (Mod.#J225STLEOB) Do I have a 2 part shaft, if so how do I remove the upper shaft.. I have installed water pumps on the engine sine 1995 never thought I had 2 part shaft. Thanks.

  2. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Crawfordville, FL/Lake Hartwell, SC
    Posts
    71,276
    #2
    They've been two piece since about 1991. There is a tool that clamps onto the upper drive shaft and uses two bolts to apply upward pressure on the shaft, it pops the shaft out of the fingers that hold it in. Some folks use a slide hammer, or slip something down the drive shaft and then clamp a set of vice grips and pop it out that way. No real need to pull it out unless you need to perform some serious LU work.

  3. Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Carrollton
    Posts
    398
    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by ChampioNman View Post
    They've been two piece since about 1991. There is a tool that clamps onto the upper drive shaft and uses two bolts to apply upward pressure on the shaft, it pops the shaft out of the fingers that hold it in. Some folks use a slide hammer, or slip something down the drive shaft and then clamp a set of vice grips and pop it out that way. No real need to pull it out unless you need to perform some serious LU work.
    Thanks for the reply, Hit a floater and tore something up. In repair now, watched a video and there was a nut involved and then I was told mine was a 2 part drive shaft. Mines just want to know. LOL Thanks again. Whats your thought on SIE rebuilt lower units? May have to go that way depending on $$$$.

  4. Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Northern Minnesota
    Posts
    1,887
    #4
    i have 2 sei lowers. First one i ran for 3 years without any issues. the second one i bought because of the warranty - it's cheaper to buy the new lower than to turn in a claim and have my deductible go back to 1000. my current lower is 2 years old and has 100 hours on it and it has no problems. the fit and finish is excellent. the key is you have to do the 10 hour break in procedure as they describe. i suspect people with problems are not doing the break in procedure correctly. i don't baby my equipment either - i run 60 days on the water each season.
    2020 Ranger Z519 | 2020 Mercury Pro XS 225 4S | Helix 10SI | Helix 10 MDI G3N | Helix 10 MDI G3N | Noco GENIUS 10X4
    Fury 3 22P True Pitched | Power Pole Pro 2's | Ghost TM | Mega 360 | MEGA LIVE | Atlas 8in Jack Plate | Trick Step | 3X Amped 80ah Lithiums


  5. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Crawfordville, FL/Lake Hartwell, SC
    Posts
    71,276
    #5
    That would be the pinion nut for the lower drive shaft. That takes a 7/8" wrench. If you go the SEI route you'll need to pull the upper, move the shift rod, anode, torque tab and install a water pump kit. All you get with them is the gearcase housing and gears. I have no issues installing them on customer boats. I've returned two out of close to 30. One on a Yamaha (they shipped the wrong lower) and one warranty claim customer hit a rock pile at 2.5 years and they replaced it. As joebone1 said the key is to break them in right. I make the initial 10 shifts in a test tank before giving the boat back to the customer and go thru the process.

  6. Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Carrollton
    Posts
    398
    #6
    Again thanks for the info. Should know the damage this morning and it will up to insurance as to repair or get a rebuilt. I think rebuilt will be better. The gear lube had lots of metal.

  7. Ohio Fishing Reports Moderator omcforever's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Miamisburg Ohio/Formerly Aiken SC
    Posts
    20,053
    #7
    If that is Carrolton Ohio, you can come by. I have 6 lowers in the barn.

    Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!

  8. Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Carrollton
    Posts
    398
    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by omcforever View Post
    If that is Carrolton Ohio, you can come by. I have 6 lowers in the barn.
    Carrollton, Va. but thanks

  9. Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Carrollton
    Posts
    398
    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by ChampioNman View Post
    That would be the pinion nut for the lower drive shaft. That takes a 7/8" wrench. If you go the SEI route you'll need to pull the upper, move the shift rod, anode, torque tab and install a water pump kit. All you get with them is the gearcase housing and gears. I have no issues installing them on customer boats. I've returned two out of close to 30. One on a Yamaha (they shipped the wrong lower) and one warranty claim customer hit a rock pile at 2.5 years and they replaced it. As joebone1 said the key is to break them in right. I make the initial 10 shifts in a test tank before giving the boat back to the customer and go thru the process.
    It seems the drive shaft broke, lower I would think, and I am told they can not get the rest of shaft out of pinion therefore they can"t get the rest of gears out. So they recommend a rebuilt lower unit at about 3000.00. They never heard of SEI. Waiting to see the written estimate. Watcha think???

  10. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Crawfordville, FL/Lake Hartwell, SC
    Posts
    71,276
    #10
    See what your insurance says. You can still get the upper out if you need to. The lower driveshaft probably did break and they have nothing above to grab onto to loosen the pinion nut. Tell the to look up Stern Drive Engineering Inc.