Ufp a-60 brake bleeding not working

[jrokk27]

I got mine at NAPA. They are just "standard" brake line hoses.

I didn't try napa but autozone and Orielys both said they didn't have anything like that. I ordered a replacement off pacific trailers website

[David g]

How did you determine the hose was clogged? I used an air compressor to blow air through mine and some ugly black liquid and solids exited before the clog was cleared but if the compressor didn't work, I would try hooking to the MC that has been bled and try to force brake fluid through the hose being sure to hold your finger over the end of the line on the retraction stroke of the MC. Hydraulic pressure is much greater than air pressure or if you probably tried what I would do and use my mouth to blow to see if it is clear. Hydraulic pressure is a very powerful thing.
David G

[jrokk27]

How did you determine the hose was clogged? I used an air compressor to blow air through mine and some ugly black liquid and solids exited before the clog was cleared but if the compressor didn't work, I would try hooking to the MC that has been bled and try to force brake fluid through the hose being sure to hold your finger over the end of the line on the retraction stroke of the MC. Hydraulic pressure is much greater than air pressure or if you probably tried what I would do and use my mouth to blow to see if it is clear. Hydraulic pressure is a very powerful thing.
David G

No air whatsoever can be pushed or pulled through the bad hose I have. And originally I had blockage at the MC as well. Both are now clear

[jrokk27]

Update:
I ordered the new flex hose and installed it but still had issues bleeding at the calibers. I went back to MC and stroked the actuator with the flex hose installed an got nothing. I then vacuumed pumped the MC with through the flex hose and started to get dark fluid out and kept going until it came out clear. I then reconnected everything and tried at the calibers again......nothing. Next I tried blowing the main brake line with compressed air. Seems that this line is blocked as well and might need to be replaced. Pricing that now..... I also used the shop vac with a PVC tube to suction any debris out of the MC reservoir.

[jrokk27]

This^^ On my trailer both rubber lines( at tongue and over axle) were plugged solid and had to replace both. Cleaned/blew out metal brake lines with my air compressor while lines were unhooked from the calipers.

Did this as well and didn't work for me. I've only tried blowing the main line from the tongue to the first caliber so far and no luck.

[rockytop]

The only thing left is your caliper,did you unscrew the brake line at the caliper. Take that off and fluid should come out,if it does then it's not going through the caliber to the bleader.

[jrokk27]

The only thing left is your caliper,did you unscrew the brake line at the caliper. Take that off and fluid should come out,if it does then it's not going through the caliber to the bleader.

I did, fluid comes out on the backside of the caliber but not at the brake line itself. The line is blocked, no doubt. Caliber, flex hose at the caliber, and line to the other caliber seems to be fine.

[jrokk27]

Is this what I need? http://www.easternmarine.com/20-sing...bing-kit-80326

[rockytop]

bleeding brakes takes two people, but you first have to have fluid or air coming from the mc all the way to both bleaders. before you buy anymore things,let me ask if you pushed air just through the longest line. sounds like this is clogged. you have to have this line off the mc and off or unscrewed from the caliper the side you drive the boat. force air at the tongue and enough air should clear it. there should be a junction block there that takes the line over the axle to the other caliper. do the same unscrew the line at the caliper and force air through the line across the axle. regular box wrenches work on the bleeders but line wrenches are needed for unsrewing and tighting the lines. they look just like a box wrench but are open on one side. you have to be careful with these connections and the bleeders. if you are sure you have good flow from the mc then you go from there. if you are able to clear these lines, then screw them back on the caliper. now loosen the bleeder just a turn and blow air again same way. if air comes out put all back together . now you will need a friend to crack the bleeder and you pump the mc. you pump and and pump and pump and hold down you buddy cracks the bleeder you keep holding in. when he tightens the bleeder you start pumping keep doing this till all air is out and only fluid is seen. heres a video

[rockytop]

here is some old school mc bleeding same thing but we have just one brake line.

[jrokk27]

here is some old school mc bleeding same thing but we have just one brake line.

I've seen these videos. The main line is clogged. And I have the One-Man brake bleeder kit.... as well as a vacuum pump. Unhooked on both ends, compressed air will not go from end to end on the main line. I was also unable to bleed or vacuum pump any brake fluid through the main to the front end of the caliber from the MC with brake bleeder kit or vacuum pump.

[jrokk27]

bleeding brakes takes two people, but you first have to have fluid or air coming from the mc all the way to both bleaders. before you buy anymore things,let me ask if you pushed air just through the longest line. sounds like this is clogged. you have to have this line off the mc and off or unscrewed from the caliper the side you drive the boat. force air at the tongue and enough air should clear it. there should be a junction block there that takes the line over the axle to the other caliper. do the same unscrew the line at the caliper and force air through the line across the axle. regular box wrenches work on the bleeders but line wrenches are needed for unsrewing and tighting the lines. they look just like a box wrench but are open on one side. you have to be careful with these connections and the bleeders. if you are sure you have good flow from the mc then you go from there. if you are able to clear these lines, then screw them back on the caliper. now loosen the bleeder just a turn and blow air again same way. if air comes out put all back together . now you will need a friend to crack the bleeder and you pump the mc. you pump and and pump and pump and hold down you buddy cracks the bleeder you keep holding in. when he tightens the bleeder you start pumping keep doing this till all air is out and only fluid is seen. heres a video

Also, I have someone helping me a different times by pumping the actuator as I opened the valve using the water bottle filled with fluid method as well as using my One-man bleeder kit. same result, nothing. Everything looks good and flows from caliber one to caliber two, but not from the main line..

[rockytop]

Also, I have someone helping me a different times by pumping the actuator as I opened the valve using the water bottle filled with fluid method as well as using my One-man bleeder kit. same result, nothing. Everything looks good and flows from caliber one to caliber two, but not from the main line..

Don't see how you can get anything at the calipers, because the main line feeds everything. If you have a big air compressor push air through the main line, but undo the line at the Mc and the caliper. If you can't get any air ,then you maye have to get those lines you posted.

[jrokk27]

Don't see how you can get anything at the calipers, because the main line feeds everything.

old fluid between the calibers, not from the main

[David g]

Remember too that behind the master cylinder, the line goes a short distance to a solenoid valve used to bypass fluid when in reverse gear. You need to disconnect the long brake line just behind the solenoid. Your blockage could be in the solenoid, mine was blocked there. I took my solenoid, blew out with the air compressor and wired and tested before reinstalling. All passages to the calipers have to be clear. You also might need to check your calipers.

[jrokk27]

So I ordered and installed a 20' flex hose for my main line. While removing the old aluminum line I discovered what my main issue was... the line was rusted and broken in two in the middle. Being the kind of person that nothing is ever too tight or tight enough I stripped the 24" flex hose I brought to replace the clogged one behind the MC. Lucky for me the new mainline flex is long enough to go from the MC to the 1st caliber with plenty of slack. I used to following method to bleed the lines behind the calibers. Zip ties on the hoses and some grease around the valves to keep it airtight.

[DABS]

Dark fluid may indicate a cup deterioration in the piston on the master cylinder. Replace the Master before you drag any of that contaminated fluid throughout your system and into the caliper pistons. No telling how long it sat in the "brakes applied" position before you purchased it.

[T. Hill]

E-Trailer or Trailer Parts Superstore. Both have great online sites.