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  1. #1
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    Composite transom?

    Can anyone tell me if my boat has a composite or wood transom? It is a 2001 203. Not have issues just would like to know.

    thanks

  2. Banned
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    #2
    Most here have the consensus that 2003-2004 and newer are the composite models.

    you might think about re-sealing it if you recently purchased it.

  3. Member
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    #3
    Thanks!! That is what I thought also.

  4. Champion Boats Moderator Lea's Avatar
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    #4
    Super great model!! You should have noticed any issues by now if you have owned it for some time.

  5. Member Royjulius's Avatar
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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Lea View Post
    Super great model!! You should have noticed any issues by now if you have owned it for some time.
    Mine's a 2000 and it still passes all the tests. Tapping, Ohming, wire poked in the holes. I know I need to reseal by now, but the sealant around the bolts still looks brand new from inside the bilge. I know the motor has never been off because I'm the 2nd owner and still in touch with the first. I did seal around the aluminum strip about 8 years ago. Its ugly, but sealed. I've never seen any ooze.
    25th Anniversary Champion 187 SCX Elite
    Mercury 175 EFI
    Perception Pescador Pro 120 Kayak
    Aquos 10ft Pontoon Boat


  6. Member
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    #6
    I have owned the boat for 4 years. Have never seen any issues but had a new hydro dynamics jack plate installed by steve and watched him seal it up. Thought I would try to pull the stainless strip and reseal. I once saw a diagram where someont took the strip off. Drilled the screw holes much larger like 3/8. Filled those holes with some thick sealant then reinstalled strip with new screw holes drilled into the sealant. That way if any water did make it in it would not hit wood only the sealant. I thought that was a great idea. Thought on what sealant to use that is really thick and would sta in the holes on the back side of the transom???

    when installing a jack plate is there any need for sealant from the inside to be applied or only from the outside?

    also plan on pulling and resealing tie downs on he transom.

    sorry for the long post

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    #7
    When I first got the boat I resealed the top cap all the way around. The old stuff pulled out pretty easy in long strips.

  8. Champion Boats Moderator Lea's Avatar
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    #8
    Personal opinion....I would seal EVERYWHERE!!!

  9. Pat Goff
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    #9
    If your rig is ten years old, you're past due resealing everything.
    Pat Goff

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  10. Member Royjulius's Avatar
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by pmgoffjr View Post
    If your rig is ten years old, you're past due resealing everything.
    Now that the season is almost over, I think I will try pulling my bolts one-at-a-time and resealing. I already have the 4200 purchased. I can't imagine ever being able to replace this boat so I'd better suck it up and get it done.
    25th Anniversary Champion 187 SCX Elite
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  11. Member
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    #11
    Not sure pulling one at a time is really the best bet.....
    2005 206
    BRP 225 H.O. (E225DHLSOF)
    Fury 4 24p @ 5,750 fully loaded

  12. Champion Boats Moderator Lea's Avatar
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    #12
    Why not, Mag?

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    #13
    To really clean out the old sealant I think it's easier with the motor off. I used 20 gauge steel shotgun bore cleaner with acetone and still needed to cut out pieces of the old sealant.
    Also thinking the area between the transom and jackplate/motor plate should have at least of ring of fresh sealant placed around bolt holes. I had 1st tried one bolt at a time and found the jackplate still pulled away from transom about a 16th breaking the sealant between jackplate and transom....even with the skeg against the ground and motor supported overhead. At that point I figured I had to move engine away from transom to redo it all. Also didn't really put any sealant towards the blige area as I figured if water did make it in it would a better chance of making it out inside of moving down into the transom.

    I might have been fine not attending to the area between transom and bracket.....but figured I'd hate risk it and ruin a champion over that....my previous boats maybe:)
    Last edited by magnumb; 09-27-2017 at 01:09 PM.
    2005 206
    BRP 225 H.O. (E225DHLSOF)
    Fury 4 24p @ 5,750 fully loaded

  14. Member
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    #14
    Also read thin strip of Butyl tape might be good around the bolt holes and maybe on back of the washers. Sail community seem to prefer this over any sealant. I used Life Calk on everything...next time i'll use butyl tape along with life calk. Might also coat inside of bolts holes with g-flex epoxy.
    Last edited by magnumb; 09-27-2017 at 01:10 PM.
    2005 206
    BRP 225 H.O. (E225DHLSOF)
    Fury 4 24p @ 5,750 fully loaded

  15. Champion Boats Moderator Lea's Avatar
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    #15
    Makes sense...thanks!!!!!!!