Need help with Rangertrail trailer, please

[fishn]

My Dad and I were hooked up to go fishing recently and Pop noticed a wheel was about to fall off. Thank God above it didn't on the way home from the last trip, and that he noticed it before we left. Looked fine in the garage. Anyway, wheel bearing is toast and it looks like it cut a groove in the spindle. I can try to get some pics, hope to go down to Pop's today.

How do I know if the spindle needs replaced? Will pics be enough for you guys to help me? Can I get the spindle sleeve and put on to cover the void, and if so, is it hard to do?

We did the bearings last time and I am not sure I did them correctly, so been watching a youtube video from USBoat that seems pretty good, and bought a bearing packer and race driver to install the races. But does anyone know the part numbers for a 1988 Rangertrail dual axle trailer for a 393? I guess there are two kinds of trailers around then, so maybe the pic will help clarify, I believe it has a tapered spindle. I am planning on re-doing all of them. This trailer has surge brakes on it too, as an FYI.

Any other advice you guys can give me would be appreciated. I would probably just take it somewhere, but can't easily do so "as is".

I appreciate any help you can give me, and may God bless you for it.

[wmitch2]

It depends on where on the spindle the groove is and how deep it is. If it's not where the bearing rides, then you can dress (with a file, then Emory cloth) it smooth and replace the bearings and races and you should be good to go. IF the groove is where the bearing rides, then you'll have to go by how smooth and tight you can get the groove. Slide a bearing over the spindle and see if it sets smooth and seals well. If none of the above works, then you're gonna need a new spindle. Some cases, it's even better and cheaper to just replace the whole axle ! Also, you should be able to get a number off the old bearing and race. If not, call Ranger and they can give it to you and can sell you the whole set.

[fishn]

Thanks, the groove was not as bad as I thought, but I will try to post some pictures for your thoughts. I think the dressing it up as you described should work. I also put the bearings on from another wheel (see below) and where they stopped, it seems like the groove might be between them and not under them (hopefully).

My Dad cleaned up the hub and it has some serious scoring on the inside of it, so now we need to get a new hub. I took the back wheel off and took the parts out of it, but the # on one race is marginal at best and the other one does not have a number. So I may have to do as you suggest and get them thru Ranger rather than locally. That's probably the best bet anyway, since the best parts shop here will probably be closed Monday.

Any idea on what a hub costs? This is just the standard hub, not the one with the brakes.

Thanks for your help, I appreciate it, and may God bless you. Nice pics too, pretty boat, nice fish!

[DABS]

the outer race should be L44610. The inner one will be L68110 for smooth backed idlers or L68111 for cavity backed idler.

[DABS]

auto parts store should have them.

[Jeff Hahn]

I had a 1991 tandem axle Ranger Trailer under my 1991 390. Is there a hole drilled in the end of the spindle? If so, you need to get a needle fitting for your grease gun. Put the needle fitting on your grease gun and put the tapered end into that hole at the end of the spindle. Then, you pump grease through the spindle, it comes out near the rear bearing, and fills the hub. You stop pumping when you see new grease beginning to come out the front of the hub. Of course, if you have disassembled your hubs, you'll need to hand pack the bearings before you reinstall them. Then, you can finish with the grease gun.

[fishn]

Dabs, sorry, but I don't know the difference between the idlers, can you please explain? Thanks

Jeff, ours does not have a needle fitting, it has a grease zerk. Thanks for the explanation.

I hope to post a picture or two this weekend.

May God bless you all.

[fishn]

Here's a picture of the groove and the hub.

[wmitch2]

That probably can be dressed and used again. Looks like where the grease seal rides is ok. Just make sure the bearing will slide easily over the spindle. I'd suggest using Bearing Buddies after you get the repairs complete. I'm not sure how much a new hub is, but I'l defiantly get a new one. Watch how your tire is wearing after this to make sure there is no bend in the spindle. Keep us informed as to your progress, good luck !!

[Jeff Hahn]

Dabs, sorry, but I don't know the difference between the idlers, can you please explain? Thanks

Jeff, ours does not have a needle fitting, it has a grease zerk. Thanks for the explanation.

I hope to post a picture or two this weekend.

May God bless you all.

Even better. Then, you can just attach your grease gun to the zerk and pump away until you see new grease come out the front of the hub.

[LittlePech]

How far do you travel?
Did the bearings get extremely hot?

We put on a lot of miles, so I'd definitely be putting a new axel on, but thats probably paranoia.
We also replace seals and inspect bearings every other spring.

[DABS]

that is not cavity backed

[fishn]

Guys, thanks for all the help, I appreciate it. I ended up ordering a new hub for the wheel that about came off, as it was pretty messed up on the inside. I also got the bearings, races and seals from Ranger. The new hub was a different diameter than the old hubs, so it took different seal, races and bearing. Ranger Parts Department offers great customer service, had a small issue and they worked it out quickly and it straightened out. Anyway, I ordered a bearing packer and race driver, thank God above, and I highly recommend these, especially the race driver. The only other time we did this I used a punch and the driver was so much easier. Thank God, got it done and may God bless you all too.

[billnorman1]

Bearing packers force grease in the edges of the bearings. Any roller bearings that are pitted in any way need to be discarded. I think you should ask a fishing friend that has bearing installation and packing experience to drop by while you work since you had a failure soon after you packed them. When I set roller bearing end play I tighten the nut fully, kick the tire if installed, tighten it some more and then back it off until you can move the washer sideways with a screwdriver and install the cotter pin or lock.
If you can move the washer you have at least .001" clearance which is pretty good.