1993 Johnson Faststrike 175 Missing on few cylinders on Idle

[got_musky]

584990 could be a number for who made the pack. Where did you find that it's a replacement? BRP lists the 0584985 as the pack for your motor, gray sleeve. After a closer look at the timing tabs, I think that the idle tab is not in the center and that's OK, it doesn't mean that the idle timing is correct, but it's more consistent with what I've seen. Did you check that throttle linkage at the carb roller, is there a gap and are the carbs closing?

584990 is P# on the pack. On the back of the pack is a BRP inspection sticker.

If looking online P# 584990 it comes up as power pack for: 0584910; 0584985; 0584990


I need to check throttle linkage at carb roller still. I believe that the throttle cam and cam roller are touching. Sorry, trying to stay focused on one thing at a time. I should be able to check and confirm that tomorrow morning.

[316jughead]

The pack for your motor is 0584985 with the gray sleeve, this is still a good number, replace the sensor too, use only OEM parts. Check out boats.net. most of the time they have good prices. There has been some confusion about that number on your pack, the 0584985 may even have the 584990 on it but it will have the gray sleeve. This was brought up here on the forum some time ago, Seahorse explained it then, maybe things have changed, he might chime in with help.

[got_musky]

Ok, whats P# for the sensor? Cannot seem to find it on the BRP site

Think I found in the Throttle Linkage section: P# 0584914

Can you confirm for me please?

Thanks

[got_musky]

Throttle Cam and Carb Roller are def touching.

[ChampioNman]

The latest and greatest part number is 586343. I would pull the timing wheel off and inspect the slots on the underside and make sure they aren't damaged.

[316jughead]

The throttle cam is adjusted by the throttle cable, adjust the trunion nut on the cable so that the cam is about maybe .010 from the carb roller. This will make sure that the carbs close at idle. Carbs not closed at idle will cause a high lean rough idle. Now you can adjust the timing roller to the timing base arm so that the timing advances and the carbs start to open at the same time. No problem with the roller not quite touching the arm, this will make sure that the timing base returns to the stop. This is how I sync the timing and carbs with a hot foot.

[got_musky]

Alright, sounds good. Last question I guess for now is do I need the piston stop tool in order to remove the timing wheel; if not what can I use/how to do without disturbing anything else?

[omcforever]

Alright, sounds good. Last question I guess for now is do I need the piston stop tool in order to remove the timing wheel; if not what can I use/how to do without disturbing anything else?

You can make a TDC/piston stop by hollowing out the porcelain of an old spark plug and threading the inside and using a long bolt(smooth the tip so it wont mar piston top) and a lock nut. I am poor so I have to use backyard ingenuity,,,

[316jughead]

Alright, sounds good. Last question I guess for now is do I need the piston stop tool in order to remove the timing wheel; if not what can I use/how to do without disturbing anything else?

I just shift it in gear and hold the prop with my foot, or a block of wood.

[ChampioNman]

I used to use a piece of rope stuffed into one of the cylinders after removing the plug it is soft and will jam up the piston with enough rope in there, then give it a 1/2 revolution to loosen the piston and remove the rope.

[got_musky]

Ok thanks all for your input. After resetting throttle cam this morning, the motor now appears to idle around 1200 on QuickStart, and around 800 after QuickStart. Still missing on 5&6 intermittently but I will try replacing coil and plug wires first.

Now i I understand that my model # means I should have the grey sheath on PP, but if it runs fine/as it has since I bought it would you think something has been changed where the blue will work or do I really need to look at replacing PP still?

[316jughead]

That power pack question is a good one. We know what pack you should have, but it ran good with the blue sleeve pack. Since you have the coils coming, why not replace and try it out, before getting the pack. One thing that I think about is, you said when the motor missed with the timing light hooked up to #2, #6 showed up at the flash.
This would mean that the pack is cross firing, that was the reason for indexing. You might rethink that test you did so you know that is really what happened. You could clean the sensor, if you take the timing wheel off, just use a lint free rag and plain water, no solvents. Did you get the timing and carbs in sync?

[got_musky]

Yes sir. I am going to take it one step at a time. Will try to clean sensor tomorrow. Then wait for coils to arrive; replace and retest with timing light. I'll repeat test and report for each time.

Thank you

[316jughead]

Now your talking! Less confusion that way.

[got_musky]

Did not get to the sensor today, had to tend to family....

I guess in the meantime while I wait for coils, I would still like to understand better how the the blue and grey sleeved PP differ (besides the color of the wire sleeve); are their plugs wired differently, does their logic operate differently, etc. and how they would effect the performance if installed on the wrong motor (i.e. blue on G suffix/ grey on R/S suffix)?

[316jughead]

The power packs have different part numbers, not just the color of the sleeve. I don't know what difference in motor performance would happen, I never tried running the wrong power pack on these motors. OK, here is my 2 cents worth, and in this case I might just be wrong. You say the motor ran just fine once with this pack, the motor also must have run just fine once with these coils. I don't understand the logic behind the decision to change all coils and plug wires, without further testing, but see no problem with running the wrong power pack. I believe you said the coils tested OK on the Ohms test. You had evidence of the pack cross firing in one test but did not verify by indexing. These are just my thoughts, with the info you have given.

[got_musky]

Ok so I went and just ran on muffs. Timing light reads # of each cylinder it's connected to; each number for the cylinder reads a little to the left of the pointer.

On # 1 I'm reading about 8 to the right of TDC after QuickStart is finished.

[got_musky]

And got the chance to clean sensor, replace coils and spark plug wires, also adjusted [terminology?] the idle tab and after quickstart I have now ~6ATDC. Went through indexing and I found timing light reading out # of each cylinder connected to.

Will try to get out this weekend to put through a real test, besides the muffs in driveway. Hopefully I've reached the light at the end of the tunnel (aside from the big ???? about the power pack). Thank you all, especially 316jughead for your time spent with me and knowledge shared. It really is much appreciated!

[316jughead]

Thanks for the heads up, things could change some in the water. You've learned a lot. Let us know how it goes.

[headhigh]

Not just helping, but teaching along the way! You're the best Jerry!