Method To Measuring The Prop To Pad (with pictures)

[BuzzB8]

From top to bottom.

1. Leveling the boat using a level on the pad.
2. Measuring the distance from the pad to a level concrete floor.
3. Leveling the engine. (Use the trim button and move the engine, not the boat)
4. Measuring the distance from the center of the prop shaft to the floor. Now just subtract the prop shaft measurement from the pad measurement. For my set-up, the prop is 2.75" below the pad.
5. This picture shows that on my boat, I can still raise the engine .75" on the jackplate by removing the mounting bolts and raising the engine on the plate.

[leeintexas]

Doesn't look like anyone is monitoring this post, but will ask my silly question anyway.
I have a 2004 Stratos PRO 275 XL and am using Johnson 90HP engine. I do not have a jack plate. Do I need one? On such a lower power engine, does it make any difference on these instructions for set up of 'on pad' for my old/little rig?
Well, hopefully someone is monitoring this and will answer...
thanks
Lee in Texas

[BuzzB8]

Tough question, Lee. I don't know if a jackplate will make much of a difference on your boat/engine. I would think that setting the engine back and raising it might give you the option of changing to a slightly bigger prop. Then again, it will change the balance which might make your boat slower or handle differently, maybe cause it to porpoise in mid-range speeds. Maybe someone with a similar boat and engine has tried it and will answer with their results.

[leeintexas]

Hi Jerry, ok. Thank you for your honest reply. I thought this was perhaps a 'dead' thread on the forums as it looks like no one has replied or posted in a while.
Your answer is honest, I appreciate your candor. I don't really think I have anything of significance to gain. Rarely do I max out the RPM on my engine as I just do not have the need to.
The boat was a repossession and somewhere from the repossession, the dealer, and auction it sat unused for a very long time resulting in dirt/grease/grime producing tough steering from the cables and the same with the cables in the Motor Guide trolling motor. I am replacing the trolling motor, that solves that and have 'cleaned', re-greased, cleaned and re greased again and again on my steering control arm to the engine to help with the very stiff steering. Failing that, I am going to install or have installed hydraulic steering assist.
The boat seems to handle ok (please bear in mind this is my very first bass boat so I do not have a guide on marker to judge things by), under 0 to 2,000 RPMs. Needless to say, my 'boating skills' or lack of need some 'refinement'. Under higher RPMS or MAX throttle, the steering is VERY stiff- VERY. This bothers me a lot.
Thanks for your prompt reply and very candid answer. I have no plans to buy a larger engine, so I do not think I will be adding a 'jack plate'.
r/
Lee in Texas

[tray302005]

Lee I used to run a 17ft bass boat with a 120hp motor on it. When I bought the boat new I had them put a Jack plate on it. So I couldn't really say that it made a difference until I changed from an aluminum prop don't remember the pitch to a stainless with a 22p. When I changed props I had to raise the motor quite a bit because in idle with prop engaged the motor shook real bad and while running it was hard to steer. And if I let go of the wheel it would turn the boat to the left way faster than it needed too. Scared the crap out of me when it happened all of a sudden I was going back the way I came from.

You may be fine without a jack plate. Even with jack plate on my old setup with cable steering if it wasn't trimmed properly it was harder to steer while trying to go faster.

Try this trim down like normal while taking off. After you plane out trim up until u feel the steering loosen up. keep trimming until u feel the boat lose bite in the water it should kick to the left a little. After you feel that just bump the trim back down a couple times. That should help. If not you may need to raise the motor.

[malachi1364]

steering being very stiff is probably more that you dont have the engine trimmed correctly for the speed your running. If it steers just fine at low speeds it should steer just like that at high speeds if you have it setup right

[Gross05]

I'm fixing to start trying to get mine at the optimal spot I've got a 26p tempest plus, I am starting at 3" bp. Does anyone have any experience with this setup. The boat is 09 294xle with 200 vmax hpdi

[JLand]

I have found that the weight of the boat seems to make the difference, when fully loaded, 47 gal gas, 44 gal water in the live well, and a passenger, my boat goes to 65 with no problems, when I had the live well empty, half tank of gas, no passenger, when I went 62 it started a slow chine walk, which go worse, so I had to shut it down. The 6" slidemaster jack plate has the cavitation plate 5" about the lower step. The boat does not have pad, v runs all the way back (slight v). Does anybody else had this problem, and what did you do about it. It takes more gas and time to get on plane when it fully loaded, and I do not plan to run that way. (2016 Stratos 201 Evolution xl, with 250 Mercury Pro XS with 25P Fury Prop)

[BuzzB8]

That slight "V" is the pad. We use a prop to pad measurement.

[BuzzB8]

They were hosted on a now gone web host. Sorry, but I no longer have that antique computer.

[Kodadon]

Got ya Jerry, Thanks