1999/2000 E200FPXSSC 200HP Ficht No fuel from injectors

[XB03AllyProud]

I posted last fall that I bought a boat with this 200 FICHT on it. My FIL was the original owner of the package and sold to neighbor who let it sit approx. 8yrs under cover. So I finally got it home a couple weeks ago and started in on it. Changed filters, drained fuel lines, replaced the rubber fuel line between lift pump and engine filter so I could cut it open to inspect. Rubber was good, fuel actually looked good and didn't smell soured. At the time it was last filled with gas there was still no ethanol fuel available in TX where boat was located. That doesn't mean the gas was pure though that was bought. But it did actually look good and since rubber fuel line was good I was encouraged. I mixed some gas and SeaFoam in 1 gal fuel can and took line off boat mounted water sep/ filter in hull and fed engine this way. I used bulb to pressure up on engine and then turn on key to pressure against injectors with the treated fuel. let it sit a couple days and disconnected lines again to drain and did it again. Now this method did not ensure the injector or lines where fully drained as I did not take the lines off at injector, just let gravity flow backwards after taking loose at pump and vapor separator. This did drain fully the hipo pump/ vapor separator/ lift pump etc.

So after a few days of sitting and other projects I was ready to put fire to it. I attempted to start and there where no issues with system monitor gauge, all was normal with no blinking codes etc. Motor cranked great but would not fire off, acted a couple times like it tried to ignite but never would. So after couple attempts I pulled plugs, they were not indexed close enough to my liking, worn out-probably .060 gap. I mean gapped wide. I regapped to .030 and put a bit fuel in each hole and tried again. Busted right off, shutdown immediately..So you see part of this is out order and not really the best way.. I was dealing with a couple things-Mom in hospital n others that to this point prevented full attention, but now it was time to get serious. In a day or so I found the only 6 plugs in a 100 miles and indexed them- got 5 of them dam near perfect and 1 better than the best it had from before. 75 deg or so out. I hooked up laptop with EVDia and got started. 101 hrs on engine, no overheat or major faults. Only issues was AT sensor related. The engine had the early recall for fire with the rubber boot on #1 injector installed when new to FIL. He loved it and never had a issue expect poor ground from dealer when brand new. Neighbor who bought it never had issue but only burned 1/2 tank at most of fuel in 3 outings.

I went thru injector test, fuel n oil pump test etc. Each test ran and did not report anything -good or bad.. This was 1st time running it so should it have gave me a pass or fail message? I ran each and heard oil pump fuel pump but did not hear the actual injectors firing. Should I of heard them clicking or such? But since it all looked good -at least no fail messages or new faults showing I was ready to try again. Cranked on it with same results. Pulled plugs and dry. SO no fuel passing out the injectors. All 6 of them dry as new. 20amp good , pulled a line of 1 injector and fuel there. So question is after 2.5 paragraphs- Can the injectors pass diagnostics test and not pass/ spray fuel? If the driver in EMM for injectors was bad would it not of told me during the EV Dia running?

Thoughts or ideas to try next? I'm gone for a couple weeks to work out of town but welcome any suggestions. Championman- any ideas?
I bought the package right- cost of hull but still would like to get it running even knowing how bad the rep is for these motors. Since I know how FIL ran it and took care and even though I didn't know exact hrs till now I knew they were low. Couple yrs ago got his '89 Allison with GT175 that was again around 100 hrs. Couple more yrs wife wants his pontoon when it might have a 100. Think he's going to live to 100. He lives easy, takes it easy and doesn't mistreat his toys. Un related to no fuel but I changed water pump and hell it is still good rubber--no cracking still pliable as new one is.

SN if it matters-G 04749142

Thanks for help you all, look forward to ideas to investigate.

[tdt91]

You should contact one of the fuel injector and EMM repair guys and see what they say. Could be EMM needs serviced or maybe the injectors are froze up with gunk.

[SEAHORSE]

What does the fuel pressure read while cranking the motor over?

Do you get spark?

Do you have a clip on timing light that you can use on each injector wire to check for activation?

What does the voltage at the starter post and starter frame read while the motor is cranking over after about 5 seconds? Does the tach show rpm while cranking?

[XB03AllyProud]

Seahorse, thanks upfront for questions/ input.
22psi while cranking, my inline spark tester does not have adjustable gap but shows spark on all leads, not strongest in my op. reddish and consistent. I did not check cranking voltage but hooked up my cart charger/booster to ensure ample supply. Right now have a 850cca deep cycle in it temp till get it going. Figured I need to get a 1000cca for it. Tach was reading but can't say what it read or how accurate for the cranking rpm. Wasn't thinking along those lines to make note. I do have an inductive timing light- did not think or realize I could use it to p/u that low of signal. I'm away for next couple weeks but will verify these items when back home on it. Big question is since I am 1st time user of the EVDia software- should it have given me results on the tests it ran? Or is no fault shown or a failed message the way it tells you it all passed? I would of expected a report that said passed or failed or something. They ran and that was it. Moved on to the next test. No faults recorded from testing or from attempts to start. I believe it all looks good and the no fuel thru injector is gummed injectors, but what does make me question a electrical issue is all 6 show zero sign of spray to the new plugs.Again though the diagnostics ran injector tests and didn't report anything. Seems like 1 or 2 or 4 might have showed some attempt at passing fuel thru. Wish I wasn't a couple weeks from being able to troubleshoot it again. Where would you recommend sending injectors for cleaning/ testing? I only see a couple in research that mess with these. Thanks again to you and anyone else that has a suggestion.

[ChampioNman]

DFI would be my choice to have them cleaned and tested. Mark the injectors so you get them back in the correct cylinder.

[Danrude]

Since it will fire if it gets fuel and you description of the symptoms suggests to me that your injectors are not firing. If the big blue capacitor fails then the voltage needed to drive the injectors is lost. There is a procedure in the manual for testing it!

[XB03AllyProud]

Thanks Dan. I will test the cap when get home.. Thanks Champ for DFI referral. I see a lot guys use them but doesn't mean they are good but refer from you guys is enough to satisfy me. Can't believe how much they get for just 1 injector. I know they are not the same but 3x what I pay to have my Merc injectors cleaned and tested. Wish I would of had time to pull em off and send out while I'm gone this time. I was hoping some seafoam would clean em up enough to get it running and verify all good then send out next time I go back to work.
Still have the question about the software running the injector tests(Any of them for that matter)--since test ran and didn't tell me good, bad or ugly does it mean according to its diagnostics test the component passed? Thanks again very much to you all.

[ChampioNman]

Seafoam is the worst thing to use to clean them. The injectors are completely different on the Mercs. They are driven by voice coils.

[XB03AllyProud]

Glad you said that about Seafoam, I was gonna mix a pretty heavy dose and fill the lines to try before sending off to DFI. I run Seafoam in everything with gas in a preventative dosage. What is in these injectors that Seafoam harms? I did find awhile back that a heavy dose in ATV carbs isn't good on main jet rubbers. Thanks for the heads up before I made them worse.

[tdt91]

Yeah don't use Seafoam in that motor, it causes injectors to stick and it eats the screens.

[XB03AllyProud]

Again, thanks all for advice on this. Been reading manual more in depth and studying on the capacitor more. Didn't realize the way this system works as in depth until now and role of the cap. along with the 40v side. I am now thinking it could be a voltage issue so will be 1st target when I'm back at it. I'm still not understanding the software side- the tests ran and it did not generate a report or say passed or failed. I can't find anywhere if it should have or again as stated before if it passes it just moves on. Those injector tests- if there was a electrical issue would they have still passed the static n dynamic tests?

[ChampioNman]

Motor has to be running to do a drop test on the injectors.

[XB03AllyProud]

Ok, thanks Championman, clears that ? now. I bought a actual OEM service manual (paper book) off ebay , hoping it is better than what came with the EVDia software in pdf and explain more details. Thinking about going ahead and getting a cap so I have one if it proves to be bad. I'm only home limited spurts and have to make use of time when I get it. Some parts like that I feel will end up getting used at some point so even if not bad it will be one day. lol.

[Danrude]

When you get the manual look at how the power distribution panel distributes the voltage, the 40V is part of it and there is a fuse involved. The PDP is known to get cold solder joints and will cause intermittent voltage loss as well as total loss.

[XB03AllyProud]

Thanks Dan. Yep the manual is vague I have it, has taken a lot to find info on several different sites and that manual on how this system works and its components. I'll post later what I find so others may be helped but it will be after Labor day likely before I get home to pursue further. Thanks again all of ya.

[XB03AllyProud]

I talked to a buddy of mine concerning Capacitor's and he suggested due to the age an it sitting so many years without use to go ahead and replace it just because. He's 35 yrs selling them, but knows nothing of boats. Just a matter of low cost to eliminate and replace before it does fail. So I wanting to buy one now so when I get home in a couple weeks it is waiting on me. If I wait to test and it is bad then I'm waiting till end of next month when home again to install by time one was shipped since I'm only home short periods.. So the cost is part replacing what may be bad ,is definitely old and likely to go at a unlucky time, and partly the time issue savings. I'd like to see if I can get it to run a bit on muffs or at least pass some fuel thru injectors before I send them for cleaning. I just want to see/ hear it fire to know nothing else to do but send injectors off to DFI this time home before going back to work so maybe they will be back waiting next time. I am convinced I don't need to actually put in lake and put load on it till they are tested and cleaned.
So question is, is this Cap the correct size? No offence to dealers etc but if I can get same Cap from a supply house cheaper it helps to offset what DFI gets for injector service. I have found reference that the original is either a 40v or a 50v and 50000uf
Is this correct anyone?
Part Number: 36DE503G050DC2B Manufacturer: SPRAGUE $76.00 Item ID: 2020051564 http://www.tedss.com/36DE503G050DC2B

• capacitance: 50,000 uf
• voltage: 50 vdc
• tolerance: -10% + 75%

Thanks Guys.

[Danrude]

It is a 50000uf 50vdc so that one should work.

[XB03AllyProud]

Thanks again Dan..

[XB03AllyProud]

Quote from another post-- "Be sure to install the E-TEC thermostats, # 5005440 and QC10WEP plugs gapped to .028" and indexed"---would this be true for my above referenced motor? I have read you all several times repeat this to others on the stats but never knew why the change is recommended? I just bought new QC12PEP plugs before I left for work and indexed and tried them. This is a Hurricane deck boat and not subject to long trolling or such like a fishing rig. Are the 12's still suitable/recommended in a pleasure runabout application? I got the capacitor above ordered and if suggested I will order the stats so I can change them as well. Really appreciate your time and input. Looking like about 2 more weeks and I'll be home to get back on it with several items to install and check out before pulling injectors and sending off.

[Danrude]

The E-TEC T-stats will increase the operating temperature to match the range of the QC10WEP plugs. The QC10WEP plugs will last much longer than the ones you are using now.