Yep L1 case.
Yep L1 case.
Any thoughts on keeping it alive. We have one vote for keeping the oil fresh which I agree with. Anything else.
Different prop ?? Jack Plate height ?? Trim settings. Gear change etc ??
Thanks
The first year the lightening case came out. Notice the three water intake holes. This was changed the next year to 4 holes. This is the same case (Internally) as a standard lower unit with the exception of the skeg design and the protruding " Bullet Nose ".Originally Posted by Axkiker
And my standard case held up to my 03 225 DI for several years....
So whats the weak link with these cases ??? Is it just a casting or material issue ???
If you wanted to replace this with a better unit what are the options. I might keep an eye out for something used if it were to pop up.
The rear bearing carrier will rotate if surfaced. To help prevent that from happening, the RBC can be "pinned" to the housing.
so i'm sure this is a rookie question but thats what I am. What exactly is surfacing the drive? I assume this is running the drive too far out of the water but am unsure.
When the case is above the pad and not below the pad as most bass boats run.. Like the go fast boats.
And the prop blades are actually coming out of the water on the top swing...
Okay that makes sense. Back in my go fast boat phase I remember boats having surface drives with special props just for such. What im curious about is it seems the drive water pickup would be above the water line at the point it was surfaced.
Is there a jackplate setting I can use that ensures surfacing is not possible. Im not a speed freak so the different between 70 and 75 isnt a big deal to me.
Thanks
The lower water pickups allow you to raise the engine higher, a good safe setting is about 3.5 in below the pad.
What hull are we talking about here?
2000 20SS Extreme
You aren't going to surface that gear case on that thing. Just run it 3.5" below pad or close to it and you'll be fine.
What he said...
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