Any precautions you can think of when welding on a skeg? I have some chips etc that im going to build up and smooth out prior to painting. I know when welding on cars they sometimes talk about unhooking batteries and what not. No sure what else I could do My engine "2000 Johnson 225 ho" is pretty simple but I would hate to blow up and electronics.
Thanks
If I were you I'd just drop the lower unit from the motor. It shouldnt be more than 6 to 8 bolts and the entire unit will drop and slide out.....easy peasy.
Oh and by the way....keep the oil in the unit while you're welding to dissipate heat. Dont get it too hot or you're in for a seal job as well. :)
Yeah thats not a bad idea. Had not really thought about that. Might even be a good way to paint as well.
So ive pulled plenty of bravo outdrives but cant say I have separated the lower from an outboard. Is the oil in the lower sealed ??? I assume since you say to keep the oil in it that it is indeed sealed.
Thanks
Yea its a completely sealed system. When you drop the unit you will have your drive shaft running up into the motor, a shift shaft (about an inch or two long), and the connection for your water pump. While you have the unit out itll be a good time to change your water pump too. Before you drop the unit make sure you disconnect the speedo hose....on a yamaha if you dont you'll break the plastic connector....ask me how I know lol.
On that motor you have a shift shaft that runs up to the front of the motor under the carbeurators. One screw holds it and you need to remove it to drop the lower.
HUGE tip......don't drop that screw. Super easy job just that screw has a lot of less than flattering names because if you drop it it's hard to find in the motor pan. It's dead center too so it's not in a place you can just reach your hand.
Last edited by perfect-storm; 08-03-2017 at 05:11 PM.
Thanks for the great info guys. This will make welding and a repaint much easier than while on the boat.
And probably stainless so a magnet won't get it.Originally Posted by perfect-storm
So I know this is an odd question considering this is a boating forum but maybe there is a welder out there that might know. Any idea what alloy rod to use when welding the skeg. I assume a typical 4043 or 5356 but im no pro. Any welders out there ?
Thanks
I like 5356 over 4043 , to soft.
Proud Army Dad
You dont remove that screw in the shift shaft. If you look close youll see the way it hooks up- its hard to remove and reinsert that screw for a reason (wasnt designed to be removed) also do not let the shift shaft turn. It is bent at the top and is tough to not turn but it is threaded on the bottom and thats what adjusts the height. One round around may make it grind gears. Im sure theres videos on youtube on how to remove the lower properly.
xpress x19, 200ho G2, aluminum sawtooth cut prop, paper sack tackle storage, ugly stik pro team, color c-lector
Removing the LU sounds like good advice. If you can flip it skeg up (keep heat rising away from prop shaft), and wrap the seal end with wet towel while welding, that should eliminate risk of overheating the seals.
Totally agree.
I have your same motor(2000 Johnson 225 HO). I knocked a quarter size chip out of my LU last spring. Had a good welder fix it for me. He removed the lower before he fixed it. Repainted it and so far no probs. It is cast aluminum so make sure your guy is good with that.
Not sure if you would be interested in noticed you were from just across the river but Tuckers Landing in Clarksville fixed one for me he does great work
Ill give them a call and get a price. I can probably weld it up but my equipment is pretty old and im not a pro. If hes cheap I might just have him build up the weld.
Thanks
Gave welding it up myself a go and seems to have turned out well.
Before and after
https://ibb.co/dBdtra
https://ibb.co/nB4oPv
Looks good man. Nice job.
Use this to protect against heat transfer to seals. http://www.eastwood.com/coldshield-thermal-paste.html
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