I'm thinking of adding bunk slides to my RT 188 trailers. Specifically, Surfix bunk slides. Does anyone regret adding them? Thanks for your input.
I'm thinking of adding bunk slides to my RT 188 trailers. Specifically, Surfix bunk slides. Does anyone regret adding them? Thanks for your input.
I have been using E-Z Slide pads on aluminum rigs for 15 years, have them on my RT188 trailer now. They will substantially reduce how deep the trailer has to be to launch and load. Never have to walk in water behind truck again. I fish some electric only lakes. They let me literally put a partner in the boat and give the bow a push to launch. They let me winch the boat on easy when loading. And power loading takes very little throttle to slid the boat up to the bow roller. They also lift the boat off the carpet and let it dry easier.
Now you must take into consideration that they are slick. Never unhook your bow until the trailer is in the water ready to launch. Hook the bow up and winch it up tight before pulling out. When alone, I use a strap to hold the boat till I get in and release the strap once in just in case the boat were to slide back as I get in. When loading I leave the engine in gear and rehook this strap, then shut the engine down.
Trailer with pads
The way I use a strap to tether the boat while getting in and out.
Last edited by Skeeterbait; 07-25-2017 at 08:27 AM.
I switched to Gator Bak love them
I used 1/2 of 3x4 PVC gutter downspouts to cover my carpeted bunks. Ready to do it again on my Texas tinny.
Do these just attach with glue or do they get screwed in? If screwed in, any trick to doing it without putting the boat in the water?
The E-Z Slide pads I used use sunken pocket wood screws. I had everything planned out and measured, a block of wood cut the right size as a spacer, and a power driver ready. Launched boat and took maybe 30 minutes in the parking lot to install them. Recommend final tightening with a high torque manual screw driver. Check and retighten them the next couple trips as the carpet under the pads compresses and then they are good to go. As for doing it without launching the boat, your gonna have to have something to lift the boat off the trailer. Its much easier to launch the boat and have plenty of room to stand in the inner area of the trailer.
I figured that was the trick. Launch then take care of it. I assume you have to predrill the holes for the screws as well. Probably not to bad but leaving the boat tied up that long at the public docks might piss some folks off!
I found an out of the way dock to do mine.
As I posted above, I did my PVC caps with 3x4 gutter downspouts cut lengthwise. One of the advantages of that installation was that the fastening screws go into the SIDE of the bunks.
If I were to put any PVC cap on the TOP of a bunk, I'd want to drill all of the way through and use Nylock nuts and washers....to be certain that no screw heads could ever work their way back up. I've read of a few hulls that got damaged by screws that didn't stay put.
I do walk the trailer every launch and check everything including screws. But in all the years I have been using these I have never had a screw back out. I have a reversible driver that you put a pilot drill bit in one end and a screw driver bit in the other end. Place the wood block spacer, place the pad, two quick pilot holes, flip it over and drive two screws. Come back afterward with a manual screw driver and snug them down. Goes pretty fast.
I did mine in the parking lot as well. Measured it when the boat was off, got everything cut, drilled and countersunk, Next time in the water (early so I could leave it docked) screwed them down with a cordless drill.
I have not noticed that much difference in the boat sliding on the bunks. I had carpet and switched to the plastic 2"x4"'s made for bunks. On that same note though I have not played with launching or retreiving the boat any different than normal so I am not sure I would have noticed a difference.
everything skeeterbait said. I actually used his pic and installed my ez slides the same as he did. It makes a hell of a difference loading and unloading. Worth every penny. I also launched boat and installed in parking lot. Took maybe 15 minutes. The only thing I way do later on is instead of using screws provided I may drill the holes out and through bolt them down so I dont have to worry about screws backing out.
Its a very good upgrade and i highly recommend them.
These are sage on a painted hull bottom correct?
I could have removed it first, but the bunks were brand new. They will drain from below. Been on 6 months and 50 or so launches and recoveries with no trouble.
On a prior painted hull, ez slides scratched the paint quite noticeably.
2018 Ranger RT188 SC Black/115 hp Yamaha SHO 4-stroke; Garmin LVS34 - north
2018 Ranger RT188 DC Black/115 hp Merc Pro XS 4-stroke; Garmin LVS34 - south
14' Mirrorcraft tin boat (ancient) with a 9.9 Mercury 4-stroke, no electronics; catches fish anyway
That is a clean looking install one thing i see about that style of ex slides that doesnt span over the entire length of the hull tho. Rather than have the weight of the boat sitting on a single full length span on the board you are now sitting on several short pressure points that to me over time could cause indentations like roller guides do. Carpet slides plenty easy for me.
Roy
2020 Triton 18 Trx
Mercury 200 Pro XS V8
Bravo FS 24P Prop
Atlas 6” jp
Dual Humminbird Helix 10 MEGA SI
Minnkota Ultrex.
Many guys who have the same issues as pointed out by Roy, just spray their carpeted bunks with Silicone. I had the same concerns.
Carpeted slides? I wouldn't mind spraying silicon...what kind
Walmart has it. Less than $5.00 a can. In the automotive section.
I use the 3x4 PVC gutter downspouts.
Roy
2020 Triton 18 Trx
Mercury 200 Pro XS V8
Bravo FS 24P Prop
Atlas 6” jp
Dual Humminbird Helix 10 MEGA SI
Minnkota Ultrex.