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  1. #1
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    Throttle sticking

    I had a strange experience today. Cruising down the lake at 4500RPM or so and when I went to get off the throttle it was stuck. I pulled the pedal back with the toe clip and it still was stuck., wouldn't budge. I was getting too close for comfort to some traffic, so I pulled the kill switch. With the motor off I punched the throttle the remaining bit to the floor, and it released. It felt smooth with no hint of binding. I didn't trust it so I headed back to the ramp expecting things to go south along the way. Again it froze up about 3/4 throttle. This time I punched it with the motor running and it released back to idle. Now for some history. (Merc 225 EFI 0G789393) When I recently had the intake apart for service and new reeds, I replaced all the bleed lines being very careful to cut them to the exact sizes stated in the Merc service manual. I did check the bleed lines at the ramp to see if one was hanging up in the butterflies, and I could not see any evidence of that.
    Also, I recently changed the 18yr old throttle cable. The length stamp on the old cable was hidden, and since I needed the old cable to pull the new one through I asked in the Champion forum if anyone knew what size cable to run for a 203 with a 8' plate. I was told a 15' was the proper length. After I got the old one through the rigging tube, it turned out the original was a 14' I don't know if this makes any difference or not. As I said the pedal seems to work smoothly, and when disconnected at the motor, the pedal/cable move freely with zero binding. Is there anything I need to look for or something I might be missing?

  2. Member Bass AHolic's Avatar
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    #2
    get the proper length, the excess is bunching up. Be like ya wear size 36" under wear and get too big = Bunched Up.. and this isn't a Duluth Underwear AD statement

  3. Member
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    #3
    I was really hoping that wasn't the case. It literally took hours to get that through the rigging tube with two people pushing and pulling. I'd hate to do it again but if that's the only solution. And in my mind I'm still a 36".

  4. Member
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    #4
    You should be ok with the 15' cable, but you did something wrong during the installation.......Sounds like the new cable may have been kinked at some point during the installation. When I change cables I disconnect everything going to the motor, and make the rigging tube completely straight.

    Sometimes I lay all the hoses, cables, and, wires flat, and straight, then slide the rigging tube over top of the bundle........Its simple and faster than fighting to try and pull something through the bent rigging tube.



  5. Member
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    #5
    I really hate the thought of disconnecting everything and then having to prime oil pump etc., but if it's the only way. Do you think I will need a new cable?

  6. Major Flagelator Gamblinman's Avatar
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    #6
    You might try tying a rope on and moving it back and forth in the rigging tube to see if it will lay better and take it out of a bind.
    "Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt."

  7. Member
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    #7
    I don't think an ant could make it through that tube at this point.

  8. Member
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by jerzia View Post
    I really hate the thought of disconnecting everything and then having to prime oil pump etc., but if it's the only way. Do you think I will need a new cable?
    If you kinked the new one badly, then Yes.



  9. Member
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    #9
    Like I said if I disconnect from the motor it moves with no friction at all.

  10. Member
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    #10
    So I did some trouble shooting today. First off I checked the Hotfoot to see if there was any issue there, none found. When I took the cowl off I did notice something immediately. The brass fitting on the bottom of the hose that comes off the engine mounted oil tank was at such an angle, that it could quite possibly have been the cause of the issue. I can see where it could possibly have prevented the linkage from returning if it became wedged. As I mentioned, when I pushed the throttle to the floor and let up, it released. That does seem to make sense since I could not move the throttle with the toe ring on the Hotfoot. I twisted the bottom hose that comes off of the fitting, and it now it is straight and nowhere in contact with the linkage. Checked the bleed lines just to be sure none popped off or if one was possibly interfering with the butterflies. No problem there. I went a bit further and disconnected the cable end from the throttle linkage. The Hotfoot moves effortlessly with no binding of any kind. When moving the disconnected linkage by hand, it moves freely to WOT, but does stick slightly at half throttle when returning to idle. In fact it has to be moved by hand to get it back. It's not hard to move but wonder if this is a common thing or is that something else that needs to be addressed? If so, where should I start with it? I reconnected the cable and jumped back behind the drivers seat. It all seems to be smooth and working fine so I will continue to work the throttle over the next couple of days to see if I can get it to stick.

  11. Member
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    #11
    You have a bleeder line getting in the butterfly keeping it open. Been there done that!!!!!!! Trim all the bleeder hose so they are a snug fit from one point to the other.

  12. Member
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    #12
    Nope not it. They are all new and completely snug. Checked again today just to be sure one didn't come off. I changed them when I had the injectors serviced, and Don told me to be sure to watch for exactly that.

  13. Member
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    #13
    Little update: After moving that fitting off of the oil hose that I thought might have been the issue, things are looking up! I tried all week to get the throttle to stick in the garage, and ran it today for a long day out on the water, all with no problem. I will pay close attention to it for quite some time though, but hopefully the problem is solved.

  14. Member
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    #14
    I had a similar bind, that did not make it stick. I looked and sure enough, the fuel line, shift cable, throttle cable, electrical harness were all sort of tangled. I removed everything, arranged things in the rigging tube so that they did not look like a pack of overly friendly snakes, then re-connected everything, removed some oil from under-cowl tank and bled air. And everything is smoother, AND it is a lot easier to work on things (IE trying to properly set up and center the shift cable is now very easy where it was under a lot of pressure.

    Previous owner re-powered my boat in 2014, and apparently they are full believers in the "shove and stuff" concept.
    2008 Bass Cat Pantera Classic
    2014 Mercury Pro XS 200