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  1. #1
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    Live well switch broke.

    Have a 2013 ranger and the live well switch that switches from auto to empty to circulate broke off. Anyone know if there are any good videos to fix?
    Nick Vitullo
    2013 Z520c 250 E-TEC
    Chicago Illinois

  2. Member
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    Jul 2005
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    Norfolk Virginia
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    #2
    Is it the actuator for the flo-rite valve? If so order a new one and just replace. On my boat there are two screws that hold it in place. If the cable was working ok then no need to replace the cable. https://flow-rite.com/products/marine/actuators-cables

  3. Member
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    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Jumping Jimmy View Post
    Is it the actuator for the flo-rite valve? If so order a new one and just replace. On my boat there are two screws that hold it in place. If the cable was working ok then no need to replace the cable. https://flow-rite.com/products/marine/actuators-cables
    that is accurate - you should also be able to remove the 2 screws. slide the switch assy out and actuate the valve opened and closed with a pair of pliers if needed. First time I broke one the flow rite folks told me the switch actuator were designed to break at a certain amount of pressure - mine always failed earlier in the year when it was sill cold out side

  4. Member
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    #4
    Good to hear! I thought I would have to replace the whole cable somehow.
    Nick Vitullo
    2013 Z520c 250 E-TEC
    Chicago Illinois

  5. Member
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    Toledo Bend, Many La.
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    #5

    here you are from 2012 Ranger Forum

    Quote Originally Posted by Nickv2lo View Post
    Have a 2013 ranger and the live well switch that switches from auto to empty to circulate broke off. Anyone know if there are any good videos to fix?
    That little contol handle is going to break again. or you can read this post i made in april of 2012, and fix it for good. PM me if you have any questions.

    You can get a new control handle assembly from Ranger or flo contol for about $16.00 and all the other parts if you want to replace it all, but the valve will break again at some point, or you can fix the control handle/valve where it will not break again with about 30 minutes work and $10.00 or so in hardware and epoxy. I had along post on this problem that did not survive the move to the new forum so here it is again- my livewell switch broke and I have found many others in the forum that have had the same problem. The switch is not built strong enough to handle the required force or torque to move the control cable if the cable gets a little stiff and they all stiffen over time. The livewell contol switch has a plastic handle(the part you turn) that is molded to a 3/8" plastic rod. this plastic rod has a brass knurled insert that has a square end that actually locks in to an actuator arm and and causes the cable to the livewell valve to move through its positions. The control handle always breaks where the 3/8" rod is attached to the control handle. I upgraded my valve by replacing the plastic 3/8' rod with a piece of 3/8" aluminium tubing, then pinning and epoxying the control handle to the aluminium rod. Here are the steps to make this repair and upgrade.

    1) Remove 2 phillips screws from the livewell contol valve, pull the valve control through the hole and disconnect the broken contol assembly from the cable
    2) remove the screw that attaches the livewell contol arm to the brass square ended insert
    3) break the plastic 3/8" rod or cut it away from the brass knurled insert with a dremel tool
    4) cut a piece of 3/8" aluminum tbg(from hardware store) approx 1 5/8" long
    5) drill a 3/8" hole the center of the broken control handle
    6) epoxy the brass knurled insert into the aluminium tbg and alow to dry over night
    7) drill a 1/8" hole through the tbg and knurled insert and drive a 1/8" x 3/8" long drivepin into the 1/8" hole
    8) slide the aluminium tbg through the contol handle so that the tbg with square end of knurled insert protrudes
    1 1/4" from back of control handle
    9) drill a 1/8" hole through/across the control valve handle and aluminium tbg
    10) drive a 1/8" x 1 15/16" brass rod (cut to length from a piece if brass rod from hardware store) through control handle and aluminium tbg.
    11) epoxy the handle to the aluminium tbg and the brass drive rod Wait over night epoxy to cure
    12) reassemble valve, attach to cable and reenstall.
    what you now have is a lot stronger than a new control and will not break due to a stiff cable.

    You can find reference to the original post in the Ranger forum under Sticky's at top of forum for maintenance tips and tricks. may have some surviving photos attached there.
    " If you are going to be stupid, you have got to be tough!"

  6. Member
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    #6
    Thanks For the detailed instructions!
    Nick Vitullo
    2013 Z520c 250 E-TEC
    Chicago Illinois

  7. mikesxpress
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    #7

  8. Member Bassman Ia.'s Avatar
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    Mar 2005
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    Co.Bluffs
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    #8
    One thing i started doing and has work well for me.

    In the off season ( winter ) i remove the control handle from the cable. Using a really small funnel i insert the cable up from the bottom of the funnel, seal the funnel and cable with duct tape on the bottom. Tape the funnel to the side of the gunnel and fill the funnel up with Deep Creep. Takes most the day for the Deep Creep to work it's way down to the valve in the bilge. Repeat and using pliers operate the cable a few times an hour. Amazing how it keeps the cable function in top shape.

  9. Member
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    san antonio, texas
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    #9
    hi is the rod solid?