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  1. #1
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    Graphs Blanking out.

    New thing happening on my 2014 Cougar. About 1/2 way through the day when I start the main motor, my graphs will shut down and reboot. HDS 12 up front, 2 HDS 10 at dash. This is a new thing this year. Replaced starting battery twice this year thinking I didn't have enough battery power. Obviously not the issue. Called BCB and they want to sell me a wiring kit that runs 6ga. to the console and 10ga. to the front graph which Im willing to do but my issue with this is, why is this problem new? Why didn't I have this issue before? Did the 16ga. wires that they ran when they built the boat degrade? Also, has anyone done this job running these new wires? PITA or what?

  2. Member
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    #2
    I had the same problem with my boat until I wired my graphs directly to the battery. Going through connection blocks with possible corrosion can cause low voltage as well. These newer graphs with the larger screen will demand more constant voltage. The slightest drop in voltage in your battery midday is putting your graphs in a low voltage situation.

  3. Member
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    #3
    ^^^ This^^^ I would run independent 6guage dedicated power
    and ground wires strait to your battery terminals for each unit.. Today's units are requiring more volts to power the processors and HD Screens.. Doing this will also cut down on your chances of foreign interference from other sources than can effect your units.
    Last edited by VictorM.; 07-19-2017 at 07:54 AM.

  4. Member
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    #4
    As mentioned, with today's high power graphs, they need their own dedicated circuit. You can use the kit with the block that BCB has suggested, or, wire each unit directly to the battery. 10 or 12 gauge tinned marine wire is sufficient, fusing each positive wire close to the battery. Either installation should resolve your issue. BCB last year started to include the kit as part of the standard equipment on the premium models.

    Installation is fairly simple in a Cat. I used 10 gauge in my P2. There are lots of posts on how to fish the wires from console to rigging area. Vent covers need to come off to make it easier.

    Batteries start to lose their capacity from day one of use. Out of curiosity, what outboard do you have? What size, brand, and type (wet or AGM) is your battery?
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  5. Sheepdog mike464's Avatar
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    #5
    I think it shows up as the wiring ages, my '13 did the same thing, wiring direct is the answer.

  6. Member
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    #6
    I would be more concerned if, when you crank the motor, you get the same beep you get when you turn the key on. That's a low-voltage alarm for the motor itself, which is trying to tell you "I need a bigger battery or you need smaller graphs to stop draining the battery so much..."
    2008 Bass Cat Pantera Classic
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  7. Member
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    #7
    How is BCB or people at home splicing the 16 gauge small Lowrance wire to a thick 6 or 10 gauge wire ? Is there a 6 gauge to 16 gauge butt connector out there I haven't seen, or using soder ?

  8. Member
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Powerworm View Post
    How is BCB or people at home splicing the 16 gauge small Lowrance wire to a thick 6 or 10 gauge wire ? Is there a 6 gauge to 16 gauge butt connector out there I haven't seen, or using soder ?
    Thats what Im concerned about. Must use a junction block or something.

  9. Member
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    #9
    Well today was a duzzy. For the first time in my life I went fishing with two clients and after a couple hours opened my mid rear tackle hatch and saw water at the bottom. I instantly knew what was up, dropped my power poles to push the butt end of the boat up, stripped down and headed for the drain plug. Got that in and hit the bilge button. Idiot. Clients were like"what are you doing?" Never mind I said. Well day goes on and now my graphs are shutting down and popping the breaker on the main power switch that is located on the side of the boat by your right knee and now my steering wheel trim switch (teleflex) won't get my Atlas down, does up fine but not down. Tomorrow will be a rip into this Cat day and get things right. Thanks guys for the direct wiring information. Looks like I got to get to work fast as I got things going on heavy and need this boat working.

  10. Member
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by OldTimer57 View Post
    I would be more concerned if, when you crank the motor, you get the same beep you get when you turn the key on. That's a low-voltage alarm for the motor itself, which is trying to tell you "I need a bigger battery or you need smaller graphs to stop draining the battery so much..."
    No motor cranks instantly, plenty of cranking power. 250 Pro XS.

  11. BBC SPONSOR Bass Cat Boats's Avatar
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    #11
    Long term corrosion.

    Any copper build up in not being pretty and shiny reduces electricity flow as electricity flows on the outside of the wire. Copper that looks like an old penny reduces the ability for wire to carry amperage. In time wire does corrode and slow flow as

    The boat wiring is tinned to prevent this, though the electrical wire to the graph is very small and we don't feel it is honestly enough wire on any unit to prevent the voltage drop you are experiencing.

    Other factors are all connections corroding and the battery aging. The BCB recommended battery for almost 15 years has been a good heavy 31 series AGM style.

    The power harness was done because depth finder companies have blamed boat companies wiring harness when people like you call them on the tech line or visits with their technicians. The 6 Gauge tinned wire harness eliminated the boat being a factor on depth finders. Thus our offering it to help solve problems and we sell several to non BCB owners as well.

    BCB

  12. Member
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by fuelleak View Post
    No motor cranks instantly, plenty of cranking power. 250 Pro XS.
    That wasn't quite the point. IF, when you turn the key to start, you get a "beep" that sounds just like the beep you get when you turn the key to "on", the motor is unhappy with the cranking battery voltage most likely. That has become more and more common in the last 10 years as the 3-4 graph setups are common, with 9" and up screens which drink electrical power like a spotlight. If you hear that beep when it is spinning over, you are "on the edge" of not cranking.
    2008 Bass Cat Pantera Classic
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  13. Member
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by OldTimer57 View Post
    That wasn't quite the point. IF, when you turn the key to start, you get a "beep" that sounds just like the beep you get when you turn the key to "on", the motor is unhappy with the cranking battery voltage most likely. That has become more and more common in the last 10 years as the 3-4 graph setups are common, with 9" and up screens which drink electrical power like a spotlight. If you hear that beep when it is spinning over, you are "on the edge" of not cranking.
    When I turn the key to the "on" position, I get that short, solid beep, can hear fuel pump run and then stop. Turn key rest of the way and motor fires without any additional beep. My battery is a brand new Optima 31, replacing a Sears PM 31 that was having the same issue.

  14. BBC SPONSOR Bass Cat Boats's Avatar
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    #14
    Bass Cat R&D has stated over and over again that they are not fans of Optima, or spiral cell batteries in AGM which are lighter. Batteries are about weight for power, less weight equates to less power storage. They really are that simple no matter the design may be, be that lithium or lead acid.

  15. Member
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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Bass Cat Boats View Post
    Bass Cat R&D has stated over and over again that they are not fans of Optima, or spiral cell batteries in AGM which are lighter. Batteries are about weight for power, less weight equates to less power storage. They really are that simple no matter the design may be, be that lithium or lead acid.
    Yes, exactly as the spiral cell technology of the Optima makes them smaller and lighter, but the trade off is that they also significantly reduce the Reserve Capacity when compared to other AGM brands of the same group size.
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  16. Member
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    #16
    Amen to the comments on the Optima. Just take a few minutes and compare the CCA, MCA and reserve minutes numbers on the biggest Optima 31, against the numbers for a NorthStar 31 series AGM, or a Deka 31 series marine AGM. There is a material difference.

  17. Member
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    #17
    The Optima is on Mr. Weeds list of approved batteries!! You guys are saying no? I have checked its voltage after a very long day on the water and it was still showing 13+ volts which I find pretty impressive. I really don't believe this battery is the issue at all. It is definitely the wiring in the boat exhibiting corrosion. Two days ago, bilge pumps stopped working and no horn. On Champlain again with big waves, wanted my bilge pumps working. Called Richard at Bass Cat while on the water and he wanted me to clean the terminal block on the transom as he was convinced low voltage through corrosion or weak battery. I knew battery was good as I had a volt meter onboard. I actually rerigged a bunch of the terminal block with what I had in the truck and bilge pumps and horn came back perfectly. I just got all the wire and supplies to wire graphs direct today. Thanks guys for all the input. Learning a lot about these Cats.
    Last edited by fuelleak; 07-25-2017 at 05:49 PM.

  18. Member
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    #18
    I was have similar issues on my 2016 and replaced with a Northstar 31AGM last fall and have been very happy.
    Basscat!

  19. Member
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    #19
    Im all re wired with 6 ga. to the console and 10 ga. to the bow. Missing a few connectors that I just ordered from bestboatwire.com and will finish up and test shortly. Question, I have 2 HDS 10s at the console, a structure scan box, ethernet power cord and a HDS 12 at the bow. Those yellow wires? Which ones do I need to power up or connect to one another? I will have a dedicated 30amp switch to turn all electronics off/on in battery compartment.