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  1. #1
    Member PowerFish's Avatar
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    Low water pressure and overheats - E175 Intruder

    New water pump kit this spring, motor is running well but water pressure is low. I never ran the boat with the old pump in it, but pressure hovers around 2-3 lbs at idle, and a max of 15lbs at wot. Top levels of trim results in an overheat, middle to lower trim no overheats. Boat has been setup the same way for 21 years, motor has never moved and is 3.5" below pad. E175GLEDB also in Siggy.

    Replaced the water pressure gauge, head fitting and hose. The old gauge went to 50psi and was really small and hard to read while running, so I put a Faria 30psi in there.

    Replaced water pump this spring, but will do it again in troubleshooting here.

    Would a thermostat stuck open cause low pressure? Seems counter intuitive, but would that cause an overheat?

    Regardless, new thermostats are going on the next order.

    Motor pees fine but this low pressure is driving me crazy. Should I go ahead and backflush at the hose fitting or flush anywhere else? The engine did sit for 2 years before I got it, and there was sand in the water pump when I changed it. I'm thinking maybe something clogged, stuck or something? What do you guys think? Does not overheat with trim below 3/4 or 1/2, so clogs don't really make sense. And as always, thanks very much for this and all help in the past...
    Heartland of America
    2000 Ranger 520dvx
    2000 Mercury Optimax 225 - 0T136160
    --
    1997 Charger 395TF
    1997 Evinrude Vindicator 200 - G04296981 (E200STLEUB)



  2. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #2
    When you drop the lower attach the hose to the back flush port and flush it Then pull the stats when they come in and flush it with the stats out. Do you have anything within 18" of the center line of the lower such as transducers that would disrupt the water flow? You may need to drop the PTP a bit to get the PSI up WOT should be 18 minimum. Make sure you order new springs when you order the stats. When you install the impeller cup make sure you don't put any adhesive around the water prime vent hole.

  3. Member PowerFish's Avatar
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    #3
    Thanks Fred, I will get parts ordered and I was just going to order the tstat kit with oring, spring etc. When I flush with tstats out, just pull them and backflush and let the water run down inside the lower cowl? Also, is there just one water intake screen 0321123 or do I need to order 2, one for each side? Parts diagram just shows one.

    http://www.boats.net/parts/search/BR...ELS/parts.html
    Last edited by PowerFish; 07-18-2017 at 08:50 AM.
    Heartland of America
    2000 Ranger 520dvx
    2000 Mercury Optimax 225 - 0T136160
    --
    1997 Charger 395TF
    1997 Evinrude Vindicator 200 - G04296981 (E200STLEUB)



  4. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #4
    Just the one. It slips down inside the lower, You'll have to pull the water pump off to install it.

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    #5
    are we sure the waterpump and components are all installed properly?

  6. Member PowerFish's Avatar
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    #6
    185er, I have done about 8 water pumps in my life, but I will be replacing the water pump again when I pull this all apart. Always a chance I did something wrong, but if I'm tearing it apart, I'm doing tstats and filter screen etc. when I do the water pump again...
    Heartland of America
    2000 Ranger 520dvx
    2000 Mercury Optimax 225 - 0T136160
    --
    1997 Charger 395TF
    1997 Evinrude Vindicator 200 - G04296981 (E200STLEUB)



  7. Member
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    #7

  8. Member PowerFish's Avatar
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    #8
    Ok, all parts are in, finally...

    1. Fred, All, to be clear, are you saying to backflush with thermostats out and caps off? Or put caps on and backflush with stats out?

    2. I realized when I got my new water pump kit, that I had installed BRP 5001595, instead of 5001594 (OMC 0434421), everything looks identical between the two when I took the previously installed kit out and compared to the new kit. The parts literally look interchangeable except the o-ring that goes around the base of the driveshaft under the impeller is a bit thinner and has to stretch over the shaft, where the other one from 5001595 is thicker. Could this be a contributor to my issue?
    Last edited by PowerFish; 07-26-2017 at 10:10 PM.
    Heartland of America
    2000 Ranger 520dvx
    2000 Mercury Optimax 225 - 0T136160
    --
    1997 Charger 395TF
    1997 Evinrude Vindicator 200 - G04296981 (E200STLEUB)



  9. Member PowerFish's Avatar
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    #9
    Alright Alright Alright.... I think I figured out the low pressure situation... As I was reviewing all parts, I realized that I did not have part #58 on this diagram installed... The water tube grommet... I found it in the box from the first pump kit I installed... That has to be it and makes total sense... I also compared the other parts and looks like the other kit I mentioned just has more parts for long shaft motors maybe...





    Anyway, I still need to know if I should flush with stats out and caps off, or stats out and caps on?
    Heartland of America
    2000 Ranger 520dvx
    2000 Mercury Optimax 225 - 0T136160
    --
    1997 Charger 395TF
    1997 Evinrude Vindicator 200 - G04296981 (E200STLEUB)



  10. Sprint Boats Moderator Bassmeister's Avatar
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    #10
    Since you're changing stats anyway, it wouldn't hurt.....

  11. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #11
    The O ring that goes under the impeller should be the same the one that goes between the impeller cup and housing is the thin one. Once you get the pump installed pull up on the drive shaft and give it a twist counter clockwise about 1/4 turn this helps seat the impeller then twist it back clockwise.

  12. Member
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    #12
    Powerfish:
    I think we have the same charger boats. 95 Charger 186vf and 95 Evinrude 175 Intruder. What kind of speed are you getting out of your rig?