Need new dash on a 99 295 pro elite. Looks like C&O is out of most of the original dash parts. Any suggestions on what to do or were to new ones made?
Need new dash on a 99 295 pro elite. Looks like C&O is out of most of the original dash parts. Any suggestions on what to do or were to new ones made?
You may want to look into getting the old one hydro dipped if fading is the only issue.
You can always take them to a body shop and have them painted as well.
1999 Stratos 273 DC
1999 Johnson 115
2021 Ram Limited
Ok it's kinda cracked in a few places on back. I can cut plexiglass for the switch plates Does any sponsor do hydro dip
KandK...give me a minute and I will find his info.
��
Your dash looks similar to mine. 2000 20SS Extreme. Is yours also a hard rubberish material ??? If so you will not want too hydrodip. Hydro-dipping is for hard ridged items.
If yours is indeed like mine I can tell you how I am currently restoring.
axkiker sent u a pm
Originally Posted by JR19
If you panels are still somewhat intact use them for patterns to make new ones. Helped my bother make some using starboard material. He used black board and it looks better than the fake wood grain stuff. We made the patterns with poster board first to make sure the fit was good , and then used the poster to transfer the shape to the starboard.
Can you share with the rest of us??
1999 Stratos 273 DC
1999 Johnson 115
2021 Ram Limited
So my panels are a hardish rubber material. Not like a typical dash in a car and not a typical ridged injected molded plastic panel. Over the years time had taken its toll and they had areas where the coating was worn off and also had a bunch of scrapes and gouges.
Soooo my first thought was to see if the panels could be sanded smooth and then painted using an automotive interior dye. This really doesnt work because first off the parts are rubber and really doesnt sand worth a crap. Also whatever type of coating they used to make them black is also a sorta rubberish coating. When trying to sand it would not allow a smooth feather edge so the area stood out when recoated.
What I ended up doing is stripping the original coating off using a product called citri strip. Its a pretty light duty paint stripper that I have used to strip paint off delicate items. I would apply the stripper and allow it to set a while then use a wire brush to remove the coating.
Next I needed to address the scrapes and gouges. I ended up using a flexible body filler thats used for bumpers. This stuff remains somewhat flexible and also is able to be sanded. This allowed me to fill the gouges and low spots then feather out so when coated were no longer noticeable.
As far as coating I ended up going with PlastiDip as recommended by a member on this board. I was really skeptical when told this but I took a small part and gave it a try. I figured worst case I peel the stuff off and go with something else. It actually matches almost exactly and almost seems like the same stuff that was applied from the factory. After seeing the results I started to question how well it would hold up. So I took the small part and started knocking it around on stuff just to get an idea how it will hold up. To my surprise it held up with only getting typical scuffs that any material would get.
Thats what I ended up doing. Time will tell how well everything holds up but worst case I peel it of and spray again lol.
I know someone recommended hydro dipping. My understanding is that dipping parts which are not ridged is not recommended. Is that still the case? Its been a few years since I dipped anything so maybe there is new technology out.
Reply With Quote
