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  1. #1
    Member mxrcr4's Avatar
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    OX 66 225 No Trim Switxh Works?

    Hey guys, I've got a 2003 Yamaha ox66 225 that has a trim issue. It's on a 2003 triton tr-21 if that comes into play. The trim motor and hydraulics work fine, as I can disconnect the trim switch on the side of the motor and power probe 12v to the up and down wires and the motor trims and tilts all the way up and down perfectly. I did replace the trim solenoid on the right side of the motor as well.

    Issue is none of the 4 trim switches work. Including the bow trim switch, throttle trim switch, blinker trim switch, and the side of the motor trim switch.

    What's going on here? Is there a relay somewhere?

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    #2
    Does the starter engage when you turn the key?

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    #3
    Yes, there is a trim and tilt relay. But there is also a fuse that provides electrical power to the switches. If the fuse is blown then none of the switches will work. I would first check the fuse.

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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by ClarkBird View Post
    Does the starter engage when you turn the key?
    No actually just tried it, key does nothing. No sounds, no lights, no starter. What is it?

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    #5
    had the same prob on mine and it was the voltage regulator. Take it off and ohm all the leads to ground. If you have one that is out of whack I have feeling that's your problem.

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    #7
    it's either that or the 80amp fuse is blown - was both in my case

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    #8
    It is generally the fuse to the key switch. That fuse powers the trim and tilt switch in the throttle handle, the trim and tilt switch on the motor, the starter relay, the gauges, etc. It is a 30 amp inline fuse. But could be a 20 amp fuse installed.

    It will be found right where the owner's manual says that it is.

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    #9
    Ok, first I don't have a manual, or access to one. Second, on the 80 amp fuse block the lower fuse has power but it terminates in a connector laying on bottom of housing. The top fuse has no power to either side. Neither fuse is blown. The smaller fuse just below the fuse block with a 30 amp fuse is not blown either, and also has no power to either side of it.

    I can power probe 12v to the top fuse in the fuse block, the one with no power, and everything begins to work as normal. Any idea why I'm not getting 12v to the top fuse in fuse block or the 30 amp inline fuse just below it?

    Thanks a ton!

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    #10
    Top fuse is a spare

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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by jethro1 View Post
    It is generally the fuse to the key switch. That fuse powers the trim and tilt switch in the throttle handle, the trim and tilt switch on the motor, the starter relay, the gauges, etc. It is a 30 amp inline fuse. But could be a 20 amp fuse installed.

    It will be found right where the owner's manual says that it is.
    That fuse shouldn't prevent the switch not the motor from working.

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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by ClarkBird View Post
    Top fuse is a spare
    Ok, but it's got all the red wires that go to the voltage regulator. The other 80 amp fuse just runs to a connector lying on bottom of housing not connected to anything

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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by ClarkBird View Post
    That fuse shouldn't prevent the switch not the motor from working.
    It appears to be the main and only power source to the whole motor. And neither side of the 80 amp fuse has power, and fuse is not blown. The other one is hot but just terminates in an unconnected connector.

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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by mxrcr4 View Post
    Ok, first I don't have a manual, or access to one. Second, on the 80 amp fuse block the lower fuse has power but it terminates in a connector laying on bottom of housing. The top fuse has no power to either side. Neither fuse is blown. The smaller fuse just below the fuse block with a 30 amp fuse is not blown either, and also has no power to either side of it.

    I can power probe 12v to the top fuse in the fuse block, the one with no power, and everything begins to work as normal. Any idea why I'm not getting 12v to the top fuse in fuse block or the 30 amp inline fuse just below it?

    Thanks a ton!
    Yes, you do. http://www.yamaha-motor.com/assets/s...-04-98_434.pdf

    The 30 amp fuse gets its power from one of the 80 amp fuses. If the 80 amp fuse does not have power then you have got to back track all the way to the battery to find out why. Don't overlook the bullet connector between the 80 amp fuse and the 30 amp fuse.

    Any battery switches that may be installed in the boat are not shown in the diagram below.


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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by mxrcr4 View Post
    Ok, but it's got all the red wires that go to the voltage regulator. The other 80 amp fuse just runs to a connector lying on bottom of housing not connected to anything
    Top or bottom - point here is only one fuse is used unless it's been wired as a secondary charging circuit.

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    #16
    OK, Still can't figure it out. Let me walk through what I have found.

    Picture one shows the fuse block with the two fuses, I call them from now on the top fuse and bottom fuse for reference. The top fuse has no power to it, and I can power probe 12v to this top fuse and everything works perfectly. The bottom fuse has power to it.



    The second picture shows the wire coming from one side of the bottom (hot) fuse, it terminates at this unconnected connector that has a yellow rubber plug in the end of it, and it was just laying on bottom of the housing.



    The third picture shows the 30 amp fused wire that comes off the top (not hot) 80 amp fuse. The other wires off the top fuse go to the voltage regulator.



    The fourth picture show a little further down the line of the 30 amp fused wire (I am assuming this is the trigger wire that feeds the 12v needed to get everything else going) where it splits into two wires.



    The fifth picture shows a little further down line of one leg of the split wire and it runs into this connector, which has another red wire running into it (none hot).



    The sixth picture show where a little further down the red wire coming from the connector above goes. It terminates into the small black box. Not sure what it is, but its not hot.



    And the seventh picture backtracks to the second leg of the 30 amp fused wire after it spits and it just goes into a bundled and taped bunch of wires that go back under the motor area. Not hot.



    The main power wire comes from battery to a box I am assuming is a solenoid. Its hot. Then one jumper off that box runs to the starter. Another jumper wire off that box runs to the red hot terminal on the trim solenoid, and its hot.

    I am at a loss as to why the 30 Amp fused wire is getting no power to trigger the system to work.

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    #17
    Pic 2 - that's the wire you'd hook up to a second house battery (per se') if you had one and it would charge from that lead. Been awhile since I was that deep into mine so can't comment off the top about the rest. If you pm your email address I can fwd some schematics that may help your efforts.

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    #18
    Ok I wonder why it's hot now?

    Email is mxrcr4@yahoo.com

    Thanks man

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    #19
    2 emails chocked full of schematics to make the best of us squirm. Good luck!

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    #20
    Any luck?