Charger Dash rebuild

[slowboat76]

Hey guys I asked this in restoration and didn't get much traction so I will ask here. I finally got my boat back and am in the process of rebuilding the dash and putting in hydraulic steering. It is a 2000 395TF. It originally had a bad 225 OPTI but I am repowering with a 02 225EFI that is Smartcraft compatible. I have pulled all the old gauges out and am wanting to go to a HDS9 in dash that can monitor everything but my question is what back-up gauges would you want/need to fill out the dash? Flasher? Depth Graph? Temp? or just maybe the Merc idiot lights with the Speedo and Tach? Give me your thoughts as to what would be acceptable safety/functionality? I also pulled all switches out as the mounting backing was cracked and looks bad. It has the old style rockers so what are you guys using to update them and after redoing the switches how do you get the name tags right and be durable? Any help would be appreciated. I got a suggestion for new wire marine and that looks like a good option there.

[jarhead175]

I prefer simple flasher, trim, water pressure, and voltage. No need for lights if something goes wrong with the motor you will know it by the seat of your pants and the screaming buzzer.

[Hickory Legend]

Water Pressure is going to have to be manual I believe, so a water pressure gauge. The Smartcraft should give you RPM and Speed along with temps and trim, which should also be on the graph.
A LST-3800 will give you depth and temp, yet with todays maps and all you really can run without a depth gauge.

[slowboat76]

I prefer simple flasher, trim, water pressure, and voltage. No need for lights if something goes wrong with the motor you will know it by the seat of your pants and the screaming buzzer.

So use the fish finder/big screen for speed and rpms? I am going to reinstall the merc 4n1 warning lights as well. That would be extra security and a backup as well

[slowboat76]

Water Pressure is going to have to be manual I believe, so a water pressure gauge. The Smartcraft should give you RPM and Speed along with temps and trim, which should also be on the graph.
A LST-3800 will give you depth and temp, yet with todays maps and all you really can run without a depth gauge.

So that would knock it down to one so to keep the dash "balanced" water pressure and the round 4n1 gauge and anything else would not be needed? Hmmm that sounds good. So what size in dash display to see the engine functions and say GPS/Si on split screen?

[slowboat76]

Oh and thanks guys for the suggestions

[jarhead175]

So use the fish finder/big screen for speed and rpms? I am going to reinstall the merc 4n1 warning lights as well. That would be extra security and a backup as well

Oh my bad forgot a rpm guage.

Flasher, water pressure, rpm guage, volt meter, and trim all I got no graph on my dash just the one on the trolling motor.

[Hickory Legend]

So that would knock it down to one so to keep the dash "balanced" water pressure and the round 4n1 gauge and anything else would not be needed? Hmmm that sounds good. So what size in dash display to see the engine functions and say GPS/Si on split screen?

Not sure what the dash size is and you can also mount them in the bottom corners and do a mount to place the unit out a bit.

I have a 797 and run 12 flush mounted, The Raymarine new Axiom is smaller than most units the same size being there is no buttons a 9 Inch Axiom is smaller than a 7 inch bird!

[robert m]

well as your staying merc and going smartcraft i would sugest a 7 or 9 inch lowrance gen 3 hds to get all the fish and sonar taken care of, i would go with the big tach in digital and a mercmonitor for speed and get all the gauge info to the fishfinder to keep an eye on it then go with a manual water pressure gauge and thats it hope it helped

[Thomas T]

Slowboat76 I took all of my switch panels, bow slope panel and controls panel off. What had been plastic I cut out of 3/16 aluminum and brushed it with scotchbrite pads for that brushed look and then powder coated everything. Then I took the pieces to a local engraver and had all the parts laser etched, even the new charger logo too, and re-powder coated clear all the parts and reassembled. I think I did a fantastic job and no longer have to worry about stickers or paint fading/flaking looking unsightly. If I knew how to post pics I would. Maybe I could get one of my kids to do it for me LOL. Mine is a 96 186 so I'm not sure if yours has the same style switch panels as mine? Hope any of this might help you though.

[jarhead175]

Slowboat76 I took all of my switch panels, bow slope panel and controls panel off. What had been plastic I cut out of 3/16 aluminum and brushed it with scotchbrite pads for that brushed look and then powder coated everything. Then I took the pieces to a local engraver and had all the parts laser etched, even the new charger logo too, and re-powder coated clear all the parts and reassembled. I think I did a fantastic job and no longer have to worry about stickers or paint fading/flaking looking unsightly. If I knew how to post pics I would. Maybe I could get one of my kids to do it for me LOL. Mine is a 96 186 so I'm not sure if yours has the same style switch panels as mine? Hope any of this might help you though.

If the pics are on your phone text them to me 918-440-0066 I'll post them for you.

[jarhead175]

If you want a metal dash cover and don't want to do it yourself contact Chris Bailey he hangs out on the go fast boats forms stroker, bullet, or Allison. He makes some beautiful boat part out of stainless.

[jarhead175]

Thomas T pics
Attachment 290466
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[slowboat76]

Not sure what the dash size is and you can also mount them in the bottom corners and do a mount to place the unit out a bit.

I have a 797 and run 12 flush mounted, The Raymarine new Axiom is smaller than most units the same size being there is no buttons a 9 Inch Axiom is smaller than a 7 inch bird!

Thanks I know I don't have room for a 12 in dash flush and have been reading your forum about the Axiom, that's a good looking unit for sure.

[slowboat76]

well as your staying merc and going smartcraft i would sugest a 7 or 9 inch lowrance gen 3 hds to get all the fish and sonar taken care of, i would go with the big tach in digital and a mercmonitor for speed and get all the gauge info to the fishfinder to keep an eye on it then go with a manual water pressure gauge and thats it hope it helped

Thanks I seen that exact set up on a boat today as I went window shopping to see what looked like something I could do to mine. That may be doable with my limited space.

[slowboat76]

Slowboat76 I took all of my switch panels, bow slope panel and controls panel off. What had been plastic I cut out of 3/16 aluminum and brushed it with scotchbrite pads for that brushed look and then powder coated everything. Then I took the pieces to a local engraver and had all the parts laser etched, even the new charger logo too, and re-powder coated clear all the parts and reassembled. I think I did a fantastic job and no longer have to worry about stickers or paint fading/flaking looking unsightly. If I knew how to post pics I would. Maybe I could get one of my kids to do it for me LOL. Mine is a 96 186 so I'm not sure if yours has the same style switch panels as mine? Hope any of this might help you though.

That looks great and is same style switches and that may be a good option to get it back looking updated. Did you do the other small plates on the gunwales as well? If you don't mind me asking what was the ballpark $$$ to get etched (you can PM if prefer) Thanks

[slowboat76]

If you want a metal dash cover and don't want to do it yourself contact Chris Bailey he hangs out on the go fast boats forms stroker, bullet, or Allison. He makes some beautiful boat part out of stainless.

Thanks for taking time to post pics and I will look into that if I decide to not do it myself. I really appreciate all the help guys, its headed to Deans top and canvas this week to get the seats rebuilt and hopefully when I get it back home I can finish dash and install motor and then start trailer rebuild. Bust Out Another Thousand.

[Thomas T]

Slowboat76 I think I might have paid 35-45$ for all the etching. The material I had laying around the garage and bought an eastwoods powder coat gun with powders and a used electric oven off craigslist to bake it. Yes, I did do the switches for the courtesy lights but I don't have any pictures. Everything was hand cut with an air body saw and filed to fit exactly. All in I have maybe 150-160$ in them. DIY powder coating is super easy. The hardest part is getting the font correct and placed where you want them the first time, and the charger logo, we scanned it from a brochure I found over at a family members house when he was considering a 496. I found it to be fulfilling knowing that my time and OCD of things just right made my rig unique for me LOL! Thank you jarhead175 for posting the pics for me!!!!

[jarhead175]

No problem

[slowboat76]

Hey guys bumping this back up as I am getting my stuff together for the dash. The first question is my boat came with a multifunctioning "idiot" light from Merc but that part is no longer available so what do I use to take its place or is it something I even have to have. Number 2 is the wiring harness from outboard to dash. Is this a factory part because if not I am going to have to build one by hand.