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  1. #1
    Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    Dedicated storage building for 5th wheel

    Anybody built something? Thinking about something like a 14'X40'X16'tall with a 14' door on the end.

    Strange as it sounds, I have a 24X40 and a 44x64 building already and really can't work out space in either because of eave height on the larger building and terrain getting to the smaller.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
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    #2
    Yes, I've been working on plans for a 30X50. My 5th wheel won't fit in a 40. It is 13' wide when opened also so that why I want to go wider. I just haven't desided on what I want to build it out of yet.



  3. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #3
    I already have a 44X64 and 24X32 building, but the big one only has 12ft eaves and the smaller one won't hold what I'm shopping for.

    Choices are a taller section on the end of the small building or a separate building.

    I'm looking at a 32' actual length 5th wheel with slide outs on both sides, so I'm going to be around 14' wide opened up. I'm thinking a 16' high 16'X40' bay, either stand alone or attached to an existing building, which would allow me to upsize a little in the future.

    I think having a building where I can store it out of the weather and open the slides for packing/unpacking and cleaning will be a huge thing. We had an older trailer that had the floor destroyed by a leak in the 1 year it sat outside after we moved.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
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  4. Member
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    #4
    Keep in mind the actual measured length is usually longer than the advertised length. My 38'er actually measures 42'6". If I were you, I would go no less than 50' deep.



  5. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by transamz9 View Post
    Keep in mind the actual measured length is usually longer than the advertised length. My 38'er actually measures 42'6". If I were you, I would go no less than 50' deep.
    This one is classified as a 30 footer, but actual length is 31'11" from back bumper to the front of the coupler.

    I need to get the thing to actually figure out the building. My smaller building is tall enough, but if I have to put spacers on the axles to level the trailer and clear the truck bed I'm not sure how much I will have to play with for clearance. I'm around 14' clearance now, but if I put in 6" of floor that puts me around 13'6" which is lower than I'd like. This rig is right at 13' from the factory, but many owners say they had to add a 2.5" axle spacer.

    BTW, your signature is just displaying the Photobucket warning box now since they pulled the plug on linking.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
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  6. Member
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by CatFan View Post
    This one is classified as a 30 footer, but actual length is 31'11" from back bumper to the front of the coupler.

    I need to get the thing to actually figure out the building. My smaller building is tall enough, but if I have to put spacers on the axles to level the trailer and clear the truck bed I'm not sure how much I will have to play with for clearance. I'm around 14' clearance now, but if I put in 6" of floor that puts me around 13'6" which is lower than I'd like. This rig is right at 13' from the factory, but many owners say they had to add a 2.5" axle spacer.

    BTW, your signature is just displaying the Photobucket warning box now since they pulled the plug on linking.
    Yeah I noticed the photobucket thing. They want me to upgrade my membership.



  7. Member
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    #7
    My 5th wheel nose cap sticks forward of the pin almost 2'.



  8. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by transamz9 View Post
    My 5th wheel nose cap sticks forward of the pin almost 2'.
    Interesting. This one is 3-1/2" from nose to end of coupler, and the nose is directly even with the pin.

    While on the topic, what do you think about the Andersen Ultimate? I have to have a gooseneck hitch anyway. Nice light framework and it seems to have a lot going for it. With a 10,000lb rig I'm thinking of going for it.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
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  9. Member
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    #9
    They seem to be good hitch. I don't have any personal experience with them. I have a Companion and love it but I don't have to remove it because I have other trucks to use if need be. I think it would serve you well.



  10. Papap
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    #10
    Built a 30 x 50 for motorhome with a 13 high rolling door on one end and 6' wide walk through door on opposite end.
    2016 Ranger RT188
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    Lowrance HDS 10 & 9

  11. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #11
    Just an update to the thread. Just got finished with an 18'X40'X16ft building. Took me a while to figure out where I wanted it because of slope issues being worse than I thought.

    Now I have a new question. The 5er is 50A service with two ACs. At first I was thinking I'd install power to handle the 50A and everything would be covered. But the run will be about 180ft for power.

    I can run a single 20A circuit from another building with 25ft of trench and be in business much faster and cheaper.

    Thinking 50A would be nice, but a bunch of money for wire. Plus is that I could plug in and live in the RV if house AC went down, or friends with RVs could visit and be set as well.

    Any advice?

    I'll probably just run an extension cord via a piece of conduit on the driveway for a while for battery charging until I make up my mind or find a deal on wire.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
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  12. Member berudd's Avatar
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    #12
    So would you run the AC while it is in the building? You'd essentially be heating the building making it progressively harder on the AC unit to keep up.
    Bruce
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    #13
    Most around us the prefabbed aluminum carports, even at that size. They can be built with sides and do a good job protecting large RVs

  14. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by berudd View Post
    So would you run the AC while it is in the building? You'd essentially be heating the building making it progressively harder on the AC unit to keep up.
    Probably not, but I could pull it forward or park beside the building and still plug in to run it.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
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  15. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #15
    Still needs gutters-
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  16. Georgia Fishing Reports Moderator
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    #16
    I def need to get me one for my travel trailer!! Parking it in the open sun is taking it's toll...