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  1. #1
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    Transducer location loosing bottom?

    Hey Guys just switched out Lowrance (had them for years) to a Garmin 1042xsv. I have the transducer mounted with the bottom half of the transducer below the hull. I was loosing bottom at less than 20' and 25mph so I tilted the transducer slightly more forward and now it makes it until 28' of water at about 30mph. My past Lowrance HDS units I could keep bottom at 36mph in 70'.

    I have the transducer on a 1825 Lund ProGuide and is located with no rivets or strakes in line with the transducers. Its very close to where the Lowrance transducer was located.

    Any suggestions on which way to move the transducer?


    THX

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    #2
    Can you get a pic of the transducer mounting location from the back? Try to also show the bottom of the hull.

    Normally, you would need to lower the transducer to improve bottom reading at speed.
    Smokercraft Phantom 202 Yamaha F115/Merc 9.9
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  3. Member ifishinxs's Avatar
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    #3
    An In hull transducer puck with Y cable along with the transom mounted unit will get you bottom at any speed.

    Yes, the in hull puck works in aluminum boats as long as their is room to mount it.

    I have never had great luck on any boat with a transom mounted transducer keeping bottom at speed. In my bigger boats i always went with Thru hull units.
    2024 Phoenix 818, Mercury 175 (3B414035) Trick Steps, 3 Garmin 106 SV,s, LVS 34. BoatEFX dual bow mount. Ionic 12V 125AH, 2 12V 100 ah LiTime’s for the TM. Minn Kota 345 PCL charger,

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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by ifishinxs View Post
    An In hull transducer puck with Y cable along with the transom mounted unit will get you bottom at any speed.

    Yes, the in hull puck works in aluminum boats as long as their is room to mount it.

    I have never had great luck on any boat with a transom mounted transducer keeping bottom at speed. In my bigger boats i always went with Thru hull units.
    Well, I would say it sometimes works, but the odds are probably against you. Ive read far more failure reports than success stories.

    If you do try it, your chances of success are better with thinner hulls, but more importantly, you need to stay away from any strake locations. or points where a riveted hull is lapped or joined to anything else. Plus, your chances are much better if you look for one designed to work thru aluminum - most are not. They will say what the max thickness of hull they will work with.

    On the other hand, I have read of some people taking a cheap transom mount and gluing it in the hull and having success. YMMV :)
    Smokercraft Phantom 202 Yamaha F115/Merc 9.9
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  5. Member ifishinxs's Avatar
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    2024 Phoenix 818, Mercury 175 (3B414035) Trick Steps, 3 Garmin 106 SV,s, LVS 34. BoatEFX dual bow mount. Ionic 12V 125AH, 2 12V 100 ah LiTime’s for the TM. Minn Kota 345 PCL charger,

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    #6
    Agree with Larry, not a fan of "in hull transducers" most recommend "thru hull" not recommended for tin hulls. Would help if we could see the mounting of the transducer via a picture. Do you have additional turbulence from something on the back that could throw it off. Seems to happen with more powerful transducers and Garmin makes a good one.

    Have mine on a 1040xs without any issues at high speeds.

    Winchester and Troyboy will have better answers for you. Good luck
    Last edited by Treeguyus; 06-28-2017 at 07:16 AM.

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    #7

    Finally some pictures!

    Hey Guys finally figured out how to attach a couple of pics.


    THX for the help!

    Also I am using the GT40 transducer.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Katodog; 06-28-2017 at 07:21 PM.

  8. Member
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    #8
    well my thoughts looks out of alignment here is what I do when installing a transducer.

    V hulls can be tricky due to optically how it looks eye balling it

    1) Adjust boat so its level the length of it, raise and lower by cranking on the tongue. Use a level on the gunwale closest to the transducer
    2) Make sure the boat when looking from the back to front is sitting level on the trailer right to left, I use a level on the raised metal portion lip where the motor is attached, if not level note bubble position and align transducer accordingly either using top of bracket or top of transducer either works
    3) First look, drop transducer so the bottom of boat lines up with the upper middle half of the transducer, then level transducer from that point. Some say drop the front nose 1/8" from bottom of boat and level from that point. I go a bit deeper more like a 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Others like to drop the back of the transducer, for me level works just fine
    4) If you would like bring the boat over, will be happy to help out.

    Others may have some very good ideas but to me looks out of alignment in my opinion. Seems twisted to the bit to the bottom of the v hull.

    My thoughts, and have put a few of these on for others and they have been pleased.

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    #9
    Its hard for me to tell from those pics if its level or tilted like Gary says, but it does look to me like it could go lower.

    You have a riveted hull, so thats a problem all by itself. Each one of those rivets will be making turbulence that flows back over the transducer face and reduces performance as you speed up. You;re going to have to go lower than someone with a smooth hull.

    Also, how close are you to the prop? You have it mounted on the port side - which is the bad side as far as turbulence from the prop. The intructions would have told you to mount it on the opposite side Im sure. If you keep it on that side you will need to stay a lot further from the prop than if its on the starboard side.
    Smokercraft Phantom 202 Yamaha F115/Merc 9.9
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    #10
    Agree with Larry on the portside mounting, on the 2025 have a portside mount but far to the outside to stay away from turbulence,

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    #11
    Great info thx guys. Ya its tough to get a good picture that shows what you want. It really is not out of alinement at all but the pics don't do it justus. I did level the boat from front to back and it was already very very close to level on the trailer from port to starboard. Then I leveled the transducer the best I could with a 6" level with the lower half of transducer below the hull. I was loosing bottom at shallower depths and slower speeds so I slightly tilted the transducer so it was looking more forward ie I lowered the back end of the transducer and that helped some but not much. The transducer mounting board was put on the wrong side by the dealer back when I purchased the boat so I would like to stay on the port side if possible plus my Lowrance never had a problem mounted on that side. The transduce is right between two rows of rivets that run from front to back on the hull. There is a full line of rivets that are on the very end of the transom that run from port to starboard and cannot be avoided. I'll try lowering the transducer more and bring up the back of the transducer so its level with the bottom of the hull.

    Treeguyus, Thanks for the offer! Did not see that you were from PR at first and I might have to take you up on your offer. I am going to Winnie this weekend for a day and will see how my adjustment works and then post on here.
    THX to all!

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    #12
    Actually, you may want to deliberately tilt your transducer so the beam points 16 degrees more towards the starboard side instead of having it dead level.

    http://www.thehulltruth.com/marine-e...ansducers.html

    Edit: There was an early correction posted this morning, so you probably dont want to tilt your transducer deliberately. That would probably improve your downview, and maybe your 2D, but would just mess up sideview.
    Smokercraft Phantom 202 Yamaha F115/Merc 9.9
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    Why am I hanging out here when I could be fishing.....

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    #13
    In defense of portside placement of transducers. Walleye guys like to have them on the portside if possible. Reason is with some many walleye boats the portside corner is the rod 'position in much of the walleye angler techniques, like back trolling live or jigs. Again I put my transducer way out on the port side just a few inches from the side actually. No issues at high speed at all. Again not side view transducers only down or 2D.

    Just a after thought

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    #14
    Yeah, its not that uncommon. You just need to stay a little further away from the prop.

    Try lowering the transducer, but be prepared for lots of spray and the need for a spray shield. If that doesnt do it, then you're looking at trying an in-hull or thru-hull as the only other options.
    Smokercraft Phantom 202 Yamaha F115/Merc 9.9
    Garmin 7610xsv/GT51M-TM/Panoptix PS21/LiveScope
    Why am I hanging out here when I could be fishing.....

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    #15
    Any updates on this??

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    #16
    Ya I was just out last Saturday and I am still loosing bottom at 25mph in 25' of water. I am going to move the transducer a little more down in the water and see how that works. I will post my results.

    THX

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    #17
    I've never really found it helps me to see bottom depth on plane. I know my lake pretty well and know where the danger spots are. These areas are really dangerous with abrupt changes and not a place to be on plane. There would not be enough time to adjust. And when I set down, all my xd's work. But, lakes are all different.

    GPS with a track works best for me in this situation.
    My wife asks if I'm going to fish every day. I can't fish every day. Some days I might be sick.

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    #18
    Winchester good point, but know Scott fishes a lot of strange water. Next time out will check with my Garmin transducer, by habit because I have Lowrance on both boats us those units for my high speed.

    Turbulance could be knocking it out of contact also.

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    #19
    I agree. By the time you see a problem on plane, your motor is already ripped off the back of the boat or you are aground.

    It is handy seeing the bottom at speed if you're looking for river channels, drop offs, humps etc. You can cover a lot of ground looking for large structure that way.

    The only thing that will save you in shallow, uncharted waters is forward looking sonar like Panoptix. Its saved my ass several times in rivers and lakes with no charting or charting that isnt good enough in the shallows, rocks, stumps, etc. No charts are good in the sections that are shallow enough to ground you or rip off your prop.
    Smokercraft Phantom 202 Yamaha F115/Merc 9.9
    Garmin 7610xsv/GT51M-TM/Panoptix PS21/LiveScope
    Why am I hanging out here when I could be fishing.....