2017 60 HP 4Stroke. No crank/blown fuse. Not sure what cause.
I posted this on Tin Boats and it was suggested I submit on this thread and ask for Don.
Engine serial number is 1C452955
Yesterday on the water fishing for 6 hours motor started fine about 4 times in between fishing spots (about one hour total run time). Got to the dock to back my trailer in and when I got back to the boat the merc wouldn't start. Got the beep, and it tried to start but I don't think even one cylinder compressed/turned over before the starter stopped. I turned the key about 5-6 times (spaced apart by a few minutes) with same results. I disconnected and reconnected/tightened the battery, same result. I used jumper cables off a trolling motor battery. It took a minute or so before it would turn, but it did and I got it started to load onto my trailer.
It sure seemed like a low battery but I got it home and the battery was showing 12.48 volts on a digital voltmeter which seems well within the envelope for starting. (Note I was getting low volt alarm on Fishfinder set at 11.5 volts, but that's happened before when the finders are turned on and pulsing...) The batts are about 6 months old and all fluids are good. This morning I went to troubleshoot and checked all the fuses and found a 25 amp fuse blown on the engine (its in the picture--fuse bank on the right, the white 25A fuse with black ink marks I put on it).
My setup: 24v trolling system (Ulterra) separate from starting/house battery.
House batt used for starting and powering electronics (helix 10 mega, helix 7 g2n, network switch).
On board 3 bank charger always plugged in when stored.
Tracker 175 TF stock except for electronics/TM.
I know the finders draw about 4 amps combined but never had the problem before.
Of course I will replace the fuse, but does anyone know what circuit this fuse protects? I'm trying to determine what caused it to blow, and how to keep it from doing so again. Any troubleshooting help is much appreciated.
Main battery power fuse. Often blown when connections are made "reverse polarity" (even if for a split second).
I would recommend you have your cranking battery LOAD TESTED to confirm it's ACTUAL capacity in CCA. Report back with those results for further assistance.
Thank you. I ended up replacing the batt. It load tested good but it was a cheapo stock gp24 so I got an Interstate gp27 wet cell deep cycle that is above spec. I needed more capacity anyway. I replaced the fuse, now the volts are over 13.5 with the motor running, and over 12 volts with all electronics on (my other battery never went more than 11.6 with the electronics on, even with the motor running). I could kick myself for not suspecting the obvious back then, I thought it was an error in the Humminbird volt reading. Diode checked good one way with the multimeter also. It wouldn't surprise me that I or someone else crossed the connections--I'm glad there's a fuse for that. I really appreciate the reply. Cheers.
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