Yam 250 Sho to adopt Merc prop ?

[white gambler]

I've always had Mercs and wanted to try some props out on my 2016 Yamaha 250 Sho. After some research I got the 835274Q 1 quicksilver Flo Torq II hub kit. I tried it yesterday to no avail. Both a Bravo and a performer 4 prop wouldn't work for me. They would not let enough thread come out of the prop shaft so the prop nut could go on deep enough to expose the hole for the cotter pin. I see this hub kit 8M0075402 (which looks like the right one even though the company{BBlades} I bought mine from confirmed what I have is correct over the phone yesterday)

What do you guys do?

p.s. I HATE messing with a cotter pin. Do you guys always use it or can you just torque the nut to 55lb like mercury and leave the pin out?

[ClarkBird]

Were you using the thick, brass washer in the hub kit? Just use something thinner. You'll also find that the prop will seat farther down as you put some torque to it.

[Randy T]

For 835274Q 1 make sure you have only the ONE provided thrust washer installed. The aft adapter you have should allow for the lock tab like Merc uses in place of a cotter pin.

[ClarkBird]

Seems a bit different for SHO and the Q2 hub kit.

[leadhead]

I run Merc props on my Sho and have had the best luck with the Bravo FS.

[white gambler]

Were you using the thick, brass washer in the hub kit? Just use something thinner. You'll also find that the prop will seat farther down as you put some torque to it.

I was...one end was flush and the other end had a neck on it that came out some. I made sure the sleeve was as far in the prop as I could. When I torqued to 55lb's it didn't seem to seat down farther. At least not down enough to expose the hole for the cotter pin.

[white gambler]

For 835274Q 1 make sure you have only the ONE provided thrust washer installed. The aft adapter you have should allow for the lock tab like Merc uses in place of a cotter pin.

When I took my Yamaha T1 prop off the was what appeared to be a flush washer at the back of the prop shaft, however it would not come off. I did not try and get it off other than by hand. (forgive the ignorance I've been a merc guy) Is that something that usually sticks or can be hard to get off? in which case I could have just not used the large brass spacer/washer provided?

I'll google what a merc "lock tab" looks like. All my prev motors have been HD/fat shafts so a few washers and a prop nut was it.

[Randy T]

When I took my Yamaha T1 prop off the was what appeared to be a flush washer at the back of the prop shaft, however it would not come off. I did not try and get it off other than by hand. (forgive the ignorance I've been a merc guy) Is that something that usually sticks or can be hard to get off? in which case I could have just not used the large brass spacer/washer provided?

I'll google what a merc "lock tab" looks like. All my prev motors have been HD/fat shafts so a few washers and a prop nut was it.

Hammer and punch to break it loose. Give it a hard hit too. Yes they get on good. But it must come off for your kit to work

[white gambler]

I will try that tonight. Thank you very much.

[white gambler]

Thoughts on cotter pins?
Leave them out or go with a lock tab like RandyT mentioned?

[Randy T]

I trust a 1/8" diameter cotter pin over a paper thin metal tab, but that's me.

[white gambler]

gotcha, maybe I'll get the hang of the pin but I was sure cussing it yesterday. I torqued it to 55lbs and then had to back it off a smidge to get a clear path to the hole. In my mind it didn't make sense....back it off to 30-40 lbs just to have the cotter pin in vs having it at 55lbs with no cotter pin. I'm far from a physics expert though.

[utinator]

I don't use the cotter pin. The Merc kit comes with a metal tab and self locking nut. That's two locking devices. I've been running that set-up for 15 years, and it has never come loose.

[Randy T]

gotcha, maybe I'll get the hang of the pin but I was sure cussing it yesterday. I torqued it to 55lbs and then had to back it off a smidge to get a clear path to the hole. In my mind it didn't make sense....back it off to 30-40 lbs just to have the cotter pin in vs having it at 55lbs with no cotter pin. I'm far from a physics expert though.

Castled nuts have a torque range for that exact purpose of not being able to align up at the first lowest torque value. Yes there is only one published value for it, but that is wrong. Always go up though.

[rchavis]

gotcha, maybe I'll get the hang of the pin but I was sure cussing it yesterday. I torqued it to 55lbs and then had to back it off a smidge to get a clear path to the hole. In my mind it didn't make sense....back it off to 30-40 lbs just to have the cotter pin in vs having it at 55lbs with no cotter pin. I'm far from a physics expert though.

I don't back off , but adavance until the line is open to install the pin .

[white gambler]

Gotcha