Bass Tracker Cranking Battery/Charging Problem

[Fuentes2807]

Hello all, I plan on taking the boat in to Tracker as it is still under warranty, but wanted input from you guys. Maybe someone else who has had similar problems with their boat can point me in the right direction. So here's what I'm working with:

2014 Bass Tracker 175TXW with a Merury 60hp 4 stroke
2 battery system from factory
Lowrance Elite 7ti at the helm and a Garmin 5 at the bow (I installed both)
The factory 2 bank on board charging system. I believe the brand is "Guest"

Problem:
After half a day on the water, running to different spots, trimming the motor, running the electronics, etc. the cranking battery gives out. Voltmeter at the helm showed 10v even while running the motor and won't turn the motor over. Luckily I carry a battery pack jumper on board to bail me out. I'm pretty sure the on board charger is doing its job since its happened to me three times and I always plug the charger in at least the day prior, if not a couple days prior to a fishing trip and start the day off with a good charge. Should the motor be charging the battery while its running through a magneto like an automotive motor with an alternator? I'm a fairly competent automotive guy but know little about the marine mechanics industry. So I'm wondering if its the battery not holding its charge anymore (after less than 3 years of owning it) or the charger is not charging it properly (haven't had a problem with the trolling motor battery) or if the motor is not charging the battery like its suppose to be (if this is even the case) OR if maybe having these upgraded electronics is too much for the battery to handle. If that's the case, should I get a third battery just for the electronics on the boat along with a 3-bank charger and completely dedicate the cranking battery for just starting duties?

My 3 year bow to stern warranty is up in August so I plan on taking it in to Tracker and have them look through the boat very soon. But I just wanted some input from you fine people as to what to expect of if someone else has had the same issue and resolved it. Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks again

[gatorglenn]

Had the same problem.

Your motor does charge the battery good when at wot. But it basically does just enough to maintain what your using at idle. Your voltage gauge should be reading 14 or 14.2 at wot. Some will even be as low as 13.7. At idle it will read out of the time 13.1. In hot weather these numbers can be lower. But at idle 12.7to 13.1 is good.

No no one likes to spend money they don't need to. But what fixed mine was getting rid of the 24 series size battery and going to a 29. When you start adding those type of electronics I think a 24 just can't keep up and hold a charge long enough. And the 60 hp, does not charge it fast enough.

The 24 always seem to keep up find, if you run 5-10 mins. Down the lake to your next fishing spot. But hopping from point to point. Just a min away. Is when I had issues.

Also no wing nuts on terminals. Get the proper size nylon locking nuts. To secure all the wires. And place your big wires at the bottom and start up at the little wires toward the top.

But you could have a issue with the charger. The Gust only has one green and red light to indicate its working. But they will light up as if everything is ok. Even with one bank not charging right.

What at I think you'll find from the shop is battery is to small with this electronics.

[Fuentes2807]

That's some good info there gatorglen thank you. What I did noticed was that after I jump started my battery and made a run back to the ramp at wot, the voltmeter read around 10v. Also while running at wot back, as i trimmed the motor up/down, the volt meter, as well as the tachometer would flicker way down while the trim button was pressed. My Lowrance at the helm would also flicker out. Uh oh. Maybe the motor inst charging it at all? I hope its not the case but I should still be under warranty. Oh and before it died out on me, I had been running the boat at wot for about 30-45 minutes around the lake trying to burn as much fuel as possible (these motors are TOO fuel efficient lol) I just made an appointment with Tracker for the 18th to take it in so hopefully they can sort it out. Side note: the service writer I spoke to tells me that marine batteries only come with a 1 year warranty? Does that seem right to anyone? If so, oh well that's business i suppose and I'll definitely up size my battery to a 29 if it needs to be replaced. Thanks again.

[Basskisser]

It might be as simple as a blown fuse. When I had my 2013 PT 175, it stopped charging the battery. I could run down the lake and watch the voltage drop. Turns out it was a blown fuse. It was under the cowling towards the front.

I had a 24 series battery in the Tracker and I couldn't run my Helix 5 and 7 together without it running the battery down. I have a 27 in my Ranger and haven't had any problems.

[gatorglenn]

I have had a similar issue like that before on a different boat. ( gauges jumping loss voltage) it was a loose ground on the motor end not battery end.

[Fuentes2807]

I'll check the fuses tonight. Should of done that first.

[Shadow4]

I'm pretty sure the on board charger is doing its job since its happened to me three times and I always plug the charger in at least the day prior, if not a couple days prior to a fishing trip and start the day off with a good charge.

Fuentes, Are you coming home from fishing and letting your battery sit uncharged and then charging it the couple of days prior to hitting the lake again? If so, that could be why your battery is not working anymore. You may want to start charging it as soon as you get home. Letting a battery sit after it's been used the way we use them is hard on batteries and shortens their life from everything I've heard.

Fwiw though, I rarely get over 3 years out of wet cell battery anyway before it starts acting funny, but that could be b/c I fish all year long, every weekend and extra days when I'm on vacation. I also stay on the lake hours after most people have packed up and headed home so my batteries get a lot of abuse (especially the trolling motor battery).

[slonezp]

Fuentes, Are you coming home from fishing and letting your battery sit uncharged and then charging it the couple of days prior to hitting the lake again? If so, that could be why your battery is not working anymore. You may want to start charging it as soon as you get home. Letting a battery sit after it's been used the way we use them is hard on batteries and shortens their life from everything I've heard.

Fwiw though, I rarely get over 3 years out of wet cell battery anyway before it starts acting funny, but that could be b/c I fish all year long, every weekend and extra days when I'm on vacation. I also stay on the lake hours after most people have packed up and headed home so my batteries get a lot of abuse (especially the trolling motor battery).

Charge the batteries immediately after you use them. Also, you have a 2 bank charger, is the trolling motor 12v or 24v. If it's 24v, your starting battery is not connected to the charger, and will rarely charge fully under normal running conditions.

[Fuentes2807]

Shadow, yes that's pretty much what I do most times. Thank you. I'll for sure have to plug it in straight away and leave it hooked up.

Slonezp, I have a 12v trolling system at them moment

[Transom]

Sounds like the engine charging system or wiring is not working right. Maybe a bad battery. Check your wiring for good clean connections. Check the fuses under the cowling. If everything seems ok I would let a dealer look at it.

[krr6581]

If you have wet cell batteries have you checked the water levels in them from time to time?

[Transom]

If you have wet cell batteries have you checked the water levels in them from time to time?

Good point. I assumed that this would not have to be mentioned as I routinely check mine but that is a possibility.

[Fuentes2807]

I'll have to check the fuses, connections and battery water levels prior to taking it in to the shop. Thanks guys. Great info

[Fuentes2807]

Alright, so i checked the water levels on the batteries, full. Plates are good and flooded. And I checked all the fuses, to include the inline fuses from the charger to the positive side of both batteries. All good. I did notice the on board charger's l.e.d. lights are now all off (2 of them. Guest charger) even after I unplugged it and plugged it back in. Odd. I'm just going to have the dealer take a look at it at this point. She needs to be ready for a three day Clearlake trip next month!

[richg99]

Sometimes the most obvious things get overlooked. When you have the boat in tow, I'd stop at an Auto Parts place. They will check the batteries for free. You might have to disconnect one lead on each to have them do a load test.

I replace my auto batteries every 3 years whether they need it or not. Houston heat does them in.

richg99

[mrc.in.wi]

Sometimes batteries check out fine, but just aren't fine for operation. I would start at the cheapest point and replace the battery first.

[slonezp]

Also make sure all connectors are clean and corrosion free. A little sand paper and some battery terminal protector at the beginning of each season is some good insurance.

[TritonTRXV8]

Sometimes batteries check out fine, but just aren't fine for operation. I would start at the cheapest point and replace the battery first.

This is true a load test can be decieving at times ok when charged fully with a short load but not for a long duration. One more thing you can do with a load tester run the engine on the muffs with the tester hooked up it will show the function of the charging system as well. I have a really nice load tester for about $50. Can be used countless times. Also the charging system on this engine leaves alot to be desired its not an alternator but a stator charger which like glenn said is just enough to keep up with the voltage used while running. Check the function of that as well before replacing any parts. Also if yo do upgrade the battery get a 27 series size the 24s are just too small IMO

[leadmacdog]

But lets look at the obvious. Its a 3 year old battery that has not been maintained properly..... Your dealer should be able to check the charger and your motor charging system. If that checks out get a new battery. Preferably a group 27 and then maintain it properly going forward.

[G4bama]

Do not overlook or write off the fact that your onboard volt gauge is reading 10 volts. If this gauge is reading 10 volts you have an issue with your engine charging system that needs to be checked out. You should show 14 volts anytime the throttle is above idle and no less than 12 volts at idle. While this system does not completely maintain the cranking battery is does keep it in a state of charge. No different than you car. Now is this the only problem that you have? NO Throw the Guest charger away and buy a quality charger along with replacing your cranking battery.