Questions That HB CS Couldn't Answer

[SoonerFan]

I have not read all the replies...BUT - the last picture you posted with all the metal looking clamps(?).. that is inviting interference..
I have installed scores of Lowrance/Humminbird/Garmin units without ONE instance of interference or any issues!!

First... the POWER + and GROUND - wires to ALL/ANY electronics MUST be ran off their respective buse bar - NOT THE BATTERY!! 12ga. wire a minimum with inline waterproof blade fuse holder . Never use any type metal clamp of any kind to secure ANYTHING to the trolling motor(including the transducer!!) Wrap a 3/32 thick x 2" wide piece of rubber completely around the trolling motor foot where the transducer sits and a BIG THICK cable/zip tie to wrap around the foot to secure the transducer. Use cable/zip ties to secure the transducer cable (AFTER it is wrapped in protective conduit) to the shaft. ALWAYS wrap ALL the electronics wiring in protective conduit.

If you cannot accomplish this yourself -- PLEASE find a competent mechanic/installer.

Maybe you should have read post #19.

[joebassletter]

(AFTER it is wrapped in protective conduit) to the shaft. ALWAYS wrap ALL the electronics wiring in protective conduit.

Where can a person find this "protective conduit?" Do you mean that is provides some sort of shielding?

[sfw1960]

WOW ...












GJ on killin' it Sooner!!!








cheech-chong-smoke-because-got-high-23650.jpg

[AllyFishing]

"Installed the Mix 77 ferrite ring...got 13 wraps on that one."

What cable did you wrap around this ferite ring?

[SoonerFan]

"Installed the Mix 77 ferrite ring...got 13 wraps on that one."

What cable did you wrap around this ferite ring?

You'll wrap the transducer cable around it to shunt the spurious emissions coming from other wiring like the power cable or other electrical wiring.

[TroyBoy30]

ive got a whole box of humminbird rings if they won't send you one. I would start with the TMC1 then try the rings. the onboard charger can also cause the issues and they have a new adapter to counter it. I didn't read all of the replies but you also need to figure 8 your wires instead of coiling them

[Jonestrollingmotor]

I have not read all the replies...BUT - the last picture you posted with all the metal looking clamps(?).. that is inviting interference..
I have installed scores of Lowrance/Humminbird/Garmin units without ONE instance of interference or any issues!!

First... the POWER + and GROUND - wires to ALL/ANY electronics MUST be ran off their respective buse bar - NOT THE BATTERY!! 12ga. wire a minimum with inline waterproof blade fuse holder . Never use any type metal clamp of any kind to secure ANYTHING to the trolling motor(including the transducer!!) Wrap a 3/32 thick x 2" wide piece of rubber completely around the trolling motor foot where the transducer sits and a BIG THICK cable/zip tie to wrap around the foot to secure the transducer. Use cable/zip ties to secure the transducer cable (AFTER it is wrapped in protective conduit) to the shaft. ALWAYS wrap ALL the electronics wiring in protective conduit.

If you cannot accomplish this yourself -- PLEASE find a competent mechanic/installer.

I too have installed too many to count (been doing it for over 15yrs) of Humminbirds and Lowrances both. I can count on one hand the interference problems I've had to deal with. I can tell you that it is OK to go straight to battery, although in the earlier days this would cause a parasite power draw when all was turn off, but if you don't go to the battery you need to make sure you have adequate wire to go from battery to a junction strip. The metal bands that mount transducers are fine to use, I run the cable up the shaft and on some I'll come down the mount and on some I use the power/steering cable to route the transducer cable to the unit. I use good electricians tape to secure the cable to the shaft (zip ties will cut into the cable). I've never had to wrap rubber around the lower unit (if rubber stopped RF noise, it wouldn't come through the cable harness. RF noise can only be stopped by shunting the ground are using some type of choke.
John

[SoonerFan]

I too have installed too many to count (been doing it for over 15yrs) of Humminbirds and Lowrances both. I can count on one hand the interference problems I've had to deal with. I can tell you that it is OK to go straight to battery, although in the earlier days this would cause a parasite power draw when all was turn off, but if you don't go to the battery you need to make sure you have adequate wire to go from battery to a junction strip. The metal bands that mount transducers are fine to use, I run the cable up the shaft and on some I'll come down the mount and on some I use the power/steering cable to route the transducer cable to the unit. I use good electricians tape to secure the cable to the shaft (zip ties will cut into the cable). I've never had to wrap rubber around the lower unit (if rubber stopped RF noise, it wouldn't come through the cable harness. RF noise can only be stopped by shunting the ground are using some type of choke.
John

I don't know what 5Big was talking about....not so sure he did either. He got banned for some reason, I don't know why.

I know I haven't installed a fraction of the number of electronics as John but I have installed maybe a dozen over the years and this was my first experience with it. It was certainly a learning experience. I realized that in the past I had gotten by with being pretty sloppy and not getting any interference.

[TroyBoy30]

his advice of not wiring to the battery is totally opposite of what humminbird recommends. the wire size recommended is also too small for the onix or solix units. We used 6 gauge from my fuse block to the battery and 8 gauge to each unit. My transducer is strapped directly to the trolling motor and we even ran the transducer cables down the trolling motor cables and I have zero interference for once. I had to take some serious steps with my 1198 units but was able to remove everything when i went to the solix. zip ties are also fine if you install them properly.

[sfw1960]

You'll wrap the transducer cable around it to shunt the spurious emissions coming from other wiring like the power cable or other electrical wiring.

[Crestliner16]

Troy,I see that you have what I think? is a prop balance on the back of your tm, do you notice a difference ? I don,t mean to hi jack the post just curious.

[Wayne P.]

Troy,I see that you have what I think? is a prop balance on the back of your tm, do you notice a difference ? I don,t mean to hi jack the post just curious.

I use one also on my Motor Guide. Makes the motor quieter. TH Marine is the supplier of those now.

http://thmarine.com/g-force-eliminat...motor-prop-nut

[TroyBoy30]

Troy,I see that you have what I think? is a prop balance on the back of your tm, do you notice a difference ? I don,t mean to hi jack the post just curious.

it does help imo. really made a difference on cavitation during high speed direction changes

[SoonerFan]

I use one also on my Motor Guide. Makes the motor quieter. TH Marine is the supplier of those now.

http://thmarine.com/g-force-eliminat...motor-prop-nut

it does help imo. really made a difference on cavitation during high speed direction changes

Interesting, two guys I respect for their technical knowledge confirm the value of this product. I was just about to order one for my TM and then I saw a video on YouTube where a guy puts a mic under water and compares sound levels and frequencies both with and without the nut and came up with the conclusion that it really didn't do much. With so many knowledgable people endorsing it, it must be doing something good. I'm confused.



I realize that the video is testing a different brand but it's still the same concept.

[Jonestrollingmotor]

Soonerfan: I've ran it both ways, both in the water and testing on the bench and I can't tell a difference. I personally feel it's more "bling" than practical, but it doesn't hurt the trolling motor so if you want to run one, there's not an issue with the trolling motor. What I think it does do, in some cases, is allows the prop to not vibrate against the shearpin hole because of shearpin tolerances. These tolerance can change as a prop wears. The "nut", with a flatter, wider surface (that also extends to the outside of the prop) than a washer under a nut will pull the prop more "flat" against it's surface.
John

[kry29]

Interesting, two guys I respect for their technical knowledge confirm the value of this product. I was just about to order one for my TM and then I saw a video on YouTube where a guy puts a mic under water and compares sound levels and frequencies both with and without the nut and came up with the conclusion that it really didn't do much. With so many knowledgable people endorsing it, it must be doing something good. I'm confused.



I realize that the video is testing a different brand but it's still the same concept.

That's an interesting video. I have the eliminator nut and I thought it made a difference but that sure doesn't show it. I wonder if there's a difference in vibration levels?

[TroyBoy30]

Interesting, two guys I respect for their technical knowledge confirm the value of this product. I was just about to order one for my TM and then I saw a video on YouTube where a guy puts a mic under water and compares sound levels and frequencies both with and without the nut and came up with the conclusion that it really didn't do much. With so many knowledgable people endorsing it, it must be doing something good. I'm confused.



I realize that the video is testing a different brand but it's still the same concept.

ive never stuck my head under the water to listen but it does reduce vibration. I bought it cause it looks cool and it's easier to remove to check for fishing line behind the prop

[Wayne P.]

Soonerfan: I've ran it both ways, both in the water and testing on the bench and I can't tell a difference. I personally feel it's more "bling" than practical, but it doesn't hurt the trolling motor so if you want to run one, there's not an issue with the trolling motor. What I think it does do, in some cases, is allows the prop to not vibrate against the shearpin hole because of shearpin tolerances. These tolerance can change as a prop wears. The "nut", with a flatter, wider surface (that also extends to the outside of the prop) than a washer under a nut will pull the prop more "flat" against it's surface.
John

After I lost a prop on a Motor Guide Tour due to the plastic "nut" breaking, I used a fender washer the same size as the inside of the prop hub along with a nylock nut. Then I got the Eliminator and changed to it on the water to test and noticed the quieter/smoother operation right away. I have not gone back to the washer/nut deal. I use stuff that works.

BTW, if it wasn't a functional item, it would not have been copied by Hydro-nut.

[Jonestrollingmotor]

After I lost a prop on a Motor Guide Tour due to the plastic "nut" breaking, I used a fender washer the same size as the inside of the prop hub along with a nylock nut. Then I got the Eliminator and changed to it on the water to test and noticed the quieter/smoother operation right away. I have not gone back to the washer/nut deal. I use stuff that works.

BTW, if it wasn't a functional item, it would not have been copied by Hydro-nut.

Wayne, I understand what you're saying, I just told (as you did) what my experience with it is. The nylock nut/fender washer inside the hub is not "bracing" the outside back of the prop like the eliminator does. If the prop is tight on the shear pin, the prop doesn't have vibration issues -- unless the actual prop is out of balance due to damage. I don't think the eliminator (and it hasn't on my bench or in my test tank) eliminates motor vibration. If it did such a good job of balancing something spinning, you would see "spinoffs" of this design on car and truck wheels to eliminate out of balance (that last statement is my opinion)
John

[realdealprops]

The Hydro-nut is not the same as the Eliminator. The Hydro-nut doesn't use the built in o-ring, the cooling ports are larger and the notches to tighten it all create unwanted turbulence. Just because they look similar doesn't mean they are. That would be like saying a $79 baitcaster is the same as a $279 because they look similar.