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  1. #1
    Member PowerFish's Avatar
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    No Power, No Clicks, Fuel Delivery 175 Intruder

    So I completed the fuel pump vacuum test. No clicks...

    Motor runs fine for a few minutes when I pump the fuel bulb up good, then cuts out and dies... All signs point to fuel pump from what I'm reading...

    If I'm idling and have my son pump the fuel ball a couple times every minute, we can continue to idle just fine around the lake (no wake lake)... When loading on the trailer, trying to power load, it just does not want to do it as I'm giving it throttle, cuts out, no power etc.

    Is there anything else I should check before I drop $400 on a new fuel pump?
    Heartland of America
    2000 Ranger 520dvx
    2000 Mercury Optimax 225 - 0T136160
    --
    1997 Charger 395TF
    1997 Evinrude Vindicator 200 - G04296981 (E200STLEUB)



  2. Member Bass AHolic's Avatar
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    #2
    Anti -Siphon valve ever been de gutted ? Inside there's a ball and small spring. Don't bother checking ... just drive the ball out with an appropriate sized drift and replace the fitting. No more AS valve! They get hung up fairly often. In line OEM fuel filter replaced ? has carbs been cleaned ? what style fuel hose clamps being used? sucking air ? Gas hoses old style and insides deteriorated ? Gas line vents clear and no dirt dobber nest clog? hoses to gas tank selector valve or hoses to it condition ? just few quick things to check.

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    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Bass AHolic View Post
    Anti -Siphon valve ever been de gutted ? Inside there's a ball and small spring. Don't bother checking ... just drive the ball out with an appropriate sized drift and replace the fitting. No more AS valve! They get hung up fairly often.
    Did that exact same thing last season...motor would alarm if I tried to go full throttle. No probs since.
    I'm not sure if the AS valve is the culprit here. My guess is bad fuel pump and/or bulb.

    $400 for a new pump???? Are there no rebuild kits for this pump?
    1999 Stratos 273 / '98 Johnson 150hp

  4. Member PowerFish's Avatar
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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Bass AHolic View Post
    Anti -Siphon valve ever been de gutted ? Inside there's a ball and small spring. Don't bother checking ... just drive the ball out with an appropriate sized drift and replace the fitting. No more AS valve! They get hung up fairly often. ---- Where is this?

    In line OEM fuel filter replaced ? ---- Checked and it's fine

    has carbs been cleaned ? ---- Not specifically cleaned, but fuel conditioner and 2x4 in the tanks

    what style fuel hose clamps being used? sucking air ? ---- Worm drive clamps, all clean and tight connections (I know you'll all tell me to change them)

    Gas hoses old style and insides deteriorated ? ---- All New line and new WS filter

    Gas line vents clear and no dirt dobber nest clog? --- Checked before, all clear

    hoses to gas tank selector valve or hoses to it condition ? No selector, just tank to new water separator filter (drained tank and all new fuel weeks ago)
    Responses inline in quote, Thanks for the reply...
    Heartland of America
    2000 Ranger 520dvx
    2000 Mercury Optimax 225 - 0T136160
    --
    1997 Charger 395TF
    1997 Evinrude Vindicator 200 - G04296981 (E200STLEUB)



  5. Member PowerFish's Avatar
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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by StarcraftSS View Post
    $400 for a new pump???? Are there no rebuild kits for this pump?
    $369 on ebay, $450 on boats.net
    Heartland of America
    2000 Ranger 520dvx
    2000 Mercury Optimax 225 - 0T136160
    --
    1997 Charger 395TF
    1997 Evinrude Vindicator 200 - G04296981 (E200STLEUB)



  6. Member
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    #6
    When you install the new pump, it would be a good time to replace the oil tank filter. We have some warning horn steps when installing the pump, let us know when you get he pump.

  7. Member PowerFish's Avatar
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    #7
    0435555 was superseded by 5007420 correct?
    Heartland of America
    2000 Ranger 520dvx
    2000 Mercury Optimax 225 - 0T136160
    --
    1997 Charger 395TF
    1997 Evinrude Vindicator 200 - G04296981 (E200STLEUB)



  8. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #8
    Yes that is the latest and greatest part number. If you use worm drive clamps on plastic fittings Please do not post here any longer. Use either the correct ratchet clamp or the correct zip tie # 0320107.

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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by PowerFish View Post
    $369 on ebay, $450 on boats.net
    So that's a "no" regarding rebuild kits?
    1999 Stratos 273 / '98 Johnson 150hp

  10. Member Bass AHolic's Avatar
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    #10
    I like using these , local Dealer, but I get what I can when I visit, due to eddy uses them on repairs of course.. So its what's on Hand at the time haha.. I sure don't need a bulk Bag of each size

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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by StarcraftSS View Post
    So that's a "no" regarding rebuild kits?
    Most of us here have had no luck rebuilding, better to just go new.

  12. Member PowerFish's Avatar
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by ChampioNman View Post
    Yes that is the latest and greatest part number. If you use worm drive clamps on plastic fittings Please do not post here any longer. Use either the correct ratchet clamp or the correct zip tie # 0320107.
    I can certainly change them, I have worm drive on fuel tank fitting, intake and output of water separator... Those are brass fittings... I'll order the ZIP ties if that will do it, just pull them snug tight? Otherwise anyone have a link to the recommended hose clamp?

    I was going to reuse the factory clamps on the fuel line I put the new pump on, they are the metal compression type...
    Heartland of America
    2000 Ranger 520dvx
    2000 Mercury Optimax 225 - 0T136160
    --
    1997 Charger 395TF
    1997 Evinrude Vindicator 200 - G04296981 (E200STLEUB)



  13. Member PowerFish's Avatar
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by StarcraftSS View Post
    So that's a "no" regarding rebuild kits?
    Sorry, the rebuild kit is $150 but the experts here do not recommend a rebuild, so I'm biting the bullet on that one...
    Heartland of America
    2000 Ranger 520dvx
    2000 Mercury Optimax 225 - 0T136160
    --
    1997 Charger 395TF
    1997 Evinrude Vindicator 200 - G04296981 (E200STLEUB)



  14. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #14
    Those clamps are call Oetiker clamps and perfectly acceptable to use. They won't damage the fittings like a worm drive clamp will.

  15. Member
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    #15
    I just ordered a Oetiker clamp kit from Amazon, maybe some other place would be good. For the motor, ratchet clamps #6 0322654 (2), #8 0322652 (3), #10 0911616 (2) tie strap 0320107. If you want larger quantities Waytec Inc. on line. They have the good clamps but I didn't like their tie straps.

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    #16
    The AS valve is the male barb fitting coming out of the gas tank that the hose goes onto. It usually has a somewhat long hex-barrel. The ball is in there. That has been a problem numerous times in my experience.

    I had the same problem as yours with my 1999 Ocean Pro. It turned out to be a cracked inlet fitting of the VRO pump. I was able to replace that fitting, and it's worked well ever since.

    I had another one do the same thing- Was an air leak in the fuel line.

    Another similar problem turned out to be a sticky float valve in the VST tank. The replacement was cheap, something like $12.

    Yours is probably the VRO pump, but these are just some of my experiences with similar problems.

    I hope you get it fixed.

    -Tony

  17. Member PowerFish's Avatar
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    #17
    Thanks guys, got the pump today, unfortunately don't think I'll get to do anything with it until after this busy weekend, but family comes first...
    Heartland of America
    2000 Ranger 520dvx
    2000 Mercury Optimax 225 - 0T136160
    --
    1997 Charger 395TF
    1997 Evinrude Vindicator 200 - G04296981 (E200STLEUB)



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    #18
    When you install the pump, don't hook up the oil line. With 50 to 1 oil mix in the fuel tank, start the motor and run at a little fast idle until the residue oil in the pump is used up and the no oil horn beeps. Stop motor and pump the oil primer bulb, oil should be at or near the top of the hose, install the oil line but do not pump the oil primer bulb. Start the motor and run as before until the no oil horn stops beeping. Now you have tested the new pump for no oil alarm, self priming and that the pump is pumping oil because the no oil alarm stopped. Mark the oil level in the oil tank and check to see if the oil level goes down when you use the boat.

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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by 316jughead View Post
    When you install the pump, don't hook up the oil line. With 50 to 1 oil mix in the fuel tank, start the motor and run at a little fast idle until the residue oil in the pump is used up and the no oil horn beeps. Stop motor and pump the oil primer bulb, oil should be at or near the top of the hose, install the oil line but do not pump the oil primer bulb. Start the motor and run as before until the no oil horn stops beeping. Now you have tested the new pump for no oil alarm, self priming and that the pump is pumping oil because the no oil alarm stopped. Mark the oil level in the oil tank and check to see if the oil level goes down when you use the boat.
    If that doesn't qualify for "kill 3 birds with one stone" ^^^^^^^^^ nothing does .. great tip.

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  20. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #20
    Just a little perplexed as how there would be residual oil in a new pump. That's just what spins around in my little mind.

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