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  1. #1
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    New problem 225 evinrude vindicator bogs and stalls when put in gear

    Hey everyone. I have a 97 225 vindicator e225stleud. Ive been trying to get everything going on this boat so i can yaker her out for the first time. So today i tried. The motor fired up easily. Rpms ideling around 850. I let it sit for a few minutes idleing then i tried to accelerate. It bogged and died. It started right back up perfect and i can put it in forward or reverse and it will die about 10 seconds after you put it in gear. As soon as i give it any throttle from the hot fot it dies. So long story short i have a problem. I looked up above the carbs and on that arm theres a black piece on the arm that turns so im guessing its there. Gonna replace all the plugs to the correct champions @30. 2 of the plugs in it now are ngks. Before it would stall in gear it idled around 500 rpms in gear. The carbs to fully open and close to the stop. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you
    Chris Owenby Owner
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  2. BBC SPONSOR Smoky Mountain Jigs's Avatar
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    #2
    Chris Owenby Owner
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  3. BBC SPONSOR Smoky Mountain Jigs's Avatar
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    #3
    If there is suppose to be a clear sleeve then i must be missing it. That black piece spins around so i thought maybe thats it. I searched the forums more and i did verify the orange wire from the pack to the coils are right. Top ones orange/ blue striped -middle orange and bottom orange / green stripe. So they should be good. The pack is blue cdi im hoping until/ if its bad that it can wait before i put a evinrude one on it. Pulled all plug wires off spark plugs. I attached one in of tester wire on spark plug then i put plug wire on the other end of tester. All 6 had a pulse spark like a orange color. All 6 exactly the same. I also read about the shift switch. So on that switch i see where the wire harnees goes up to power pack. To check it do i simply unplug the wire harnees then try and see if it does better. I wish i would have remembered to push the choke in while it was stalling out.
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    #4
    sounds like your high speed jets are clogged

  5. BBC SPONSOR Smoky Mountain Jigs's Avatar
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    #5
    Ill take them out and check them. I just put the 75d in the 1 carb
    Chris Owenby Owner
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    #6
    You've got a cyl or 2 misfiring or not firing. Or your timing isn't advancing when you give it throttle. Motor will run fine missing on a cyl(s)...but as soon as it's put under load the prob rears it's ugly head.

    Hit the choke(or pump ball)....when it tries to stall....if motor perks up, it's fuel related. My money is on a spark/timing issue.

  7. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #7
    Yep you're missing the roller. Same roller that is used on the 60* motors. Go to the plumbing section of your local hardware store and get a 1' piece of 3/8" clear vinyl tubing (least they will sell) and cut of a 1" section. Slip it over the black roller. Adjust the linkage so the timing mark is centered on the clear roller.

  8. BBC SPONSOR Smoky Mountain Jigs's Avatar
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    #8
    Ok i bought some clear 3/8 tubing and cut a piece to fit. Adjusted the stop screw with the nut to bring the arm more in so the roller sleeve is middle with the mark on that arm. Hopefully i adjusted that part right. Put it in the water and cranked it up it idled higher and sound like it was sneezeing a little. It idled around 1000 to 1050 in neutral and about 650 in gear. It wanted to die again in gear some while it was idleing i went and checked primer bulb and it was soft. I squeezed it tight again went back up to the steering wheel i put in reverse to back off the trailer it wanted to die when i barely was pushing the throttle. I then pressed in the key and it picked up and ran better. I drove it a minute down the lake not hard came back and slowed down then it died.i did get it back on the trailer. After i pumped the buld hard should it stay hard and not get soft. I am talking about the primer bulb lmao.
    Chris Owenby Owner
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  9. Sprint Boats Moderator Bassmeister's Avatar
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    #9
    The primer bulb will relax a little but not go plumb soft.....fuel pump?

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    #10
    Might be more relaxed then soft. Is there a way to check the fuel pump? Mine is the black one with vro line in front. I bypassed it since the boat didnt have the oil tank or hose
    Chris Owenby Owner
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  11. Sprint Boats Moderator Bassmeister's Avatar
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    #11
    Cap off the oil line?

  12. BBC SPONSOR Smoky Mountain Jigs's Avatar
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    #12
    Yes i used a cap and screw clamp
    Chris Owenby Owner
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  13. Sprint Boats Moderator Bassmeister's Avatar
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    #13
    I'll have to defer to the gurus at this point...

  14. BBC SPONSOR Smoky Mountain Jigs's Avatar
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    #14
    No biggie thanks though i appreciate it
    Chris Owenby Owner
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  15. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #15
    You would have to T in a line to measure fuel pressure coming out of the pump. The Vacuum switch monitors the incoming side.

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    #16
    Ok fred I have a fuel pressure gauge so I can put 80 in fitting in the line and test the pressure. In the meantime is there anything else I can do like the low speed Jets or some that the idle screws anything on these carburetors on this motor that I can adjust
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  17. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #17
    Seeing this is a new install, I'd disconnect the shift interrupt switch from the top of the motor. follow the cable up from the bottom of the linkage to the power pack on the right side and unplug the black/yellow connector and run it. You may have the shift cable out of adjustment and if you do that will knock out 3 cylinders.

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    #18
    Ok fred i will try that. I probably dont have the shift cable in there right. I didnt have the throttle one right. How do i know when the shift part is in neutral for sure. Once i have that part right for sure the i can do the shift cable in there right. Also to make sure i did right earlier. I did install a piece of 3/8 clear tubing on that roller. There was no gap. But the roller was before that mark almost not against it. So i though that u said to center the roller with that mark. I did but i had to adjust that 1 screw that has the locknut on it to get it to that mark. It did change to idle rpms to about 1050 in neutral while motor was in the water. Thanks fred
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  19. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #19
    To adjust your shift cable, remove the cable end from the linkage post. Spin the prop with your foot while moving the linkage arm on the motor between F-N_R. The shift linkage should be parallel to the seam of the block where the front and rear halves mate. Shift the handle to neutral with out the cable attached. Now see if the cable end fits easily on the linkage post with no binding. If not, loosen the cable clamp for the0 trunion. Adjust the black trunion knob until it slips in the cradle with no binds and no movement in the shift linkage.

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    #20
    Ok fred i just got back from the ramp. I did have the shift cable in there right but i did exactly like you said. Exactly the same with the 1 wire and the ground wire from the harnees unplugged. I did check 1 thing. I keep reading about that allen head in the carbs. I read where 5 is like factory settings. So i screwed 1 in until it was barely seated and was only maybe 2.75 turns. Thats where it was. So i adjusted all them 5 turns out exactly. It stared and idled pretty good in the water rpms 1000 in neutral. except for it would stumble a few seconds then pick up. I got the wife to squeeze the primer bulb when it would do that and it made it die. Cranked it back up same thing i put it in forward and rpms 550 did good then would stumble out and die. So i read where u can back the allen head screws back out 1/2 turn. Did that and did pretty good. In neutral it didnt stumble anymore when i put it in forward it really wouldnt stumble at all but barley. Now reverse it stumbled and died. But never forward just reverse. So its getting closer. I didnt take it off the trailer i didnt want to be towed in just in case. The primer bulb stayed pretty hard didnt lose much
    Chris Owenby Owner
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