TOTALLY FRUSTRATED WITH MY TROLLING MOTOR INTERFERENCE PROBLEMS.

[diveshades]

Thanks for all the help, it truly is a great forum! Also, I wanted to let you guys know about our Ranger forum member, TD3, Trey. He really tried to help me reroute my transducer wires, provided me with several pics, several messages, and phone calls. He went above and beyond and is absolutely a terrific dude. Unfortunately, it did not help but was really super of someone to take all that time! Thank you Trey!

[diveshades]

Next, my marine dealer is going to install AT NO CHARGE, the 14 gauge ground from the cranking battery negative post to the trolling motor bracket as recommended by many including Ranger Rodney. If that does not work, the trolling motor skeg bolt with wire and ground will be attempted. I figure to have this fixed by June. Thanks again, to EVERYONE!

[Lou r Pitcher]

Adding signal (bonding) wires directly across paths of heavy current power conductors are best avoided if possible.

You already have your cranking battery's negative post bonded(wired) to your most negative trolling motor battery (which is also the negative power lead of your trolling motor).

If the trolling motor's negative power internally is already common with the trolling motor bracket, the added wire will simpy be redundant and seems would be of no help. But if it is added, though it is on the negative side of the circuit, it should be properly fused as 14 AWG is too small to if needed fully carry the trolling motor's return current.

[diveshades]

Adding signal (bonding) wires directly across paths of heavy current power conductors are best avoided if possible.

You already have your cranking battery's negative post bonded(wired) to your most negative trolling motor battery (which is also the negative power lead of your trolling motor).

If the trolling motor's negative power internally is already common with the trolling motor bracket, the added wire will simpy be redundant and seems would be of no help. But if it is added, though it is on the negative side of the circuit, it should be properly fused as 14 AWG is too small to if needed fully carry the trolling motor's return current.

You are obviously very knowledgeable, so what would you do to determine the path of interference?

[McGreavster]

You are obviously very knowledgeable, so what would you do to determine the path of interference?

Unplug the transducer wire from the back of your head unit, if the interference goes away you know you're not getting the interference from your power source.

[diveshades]

Thank you, McGreavster! Will do!

[Lou r Pitcher]

.....so what would you do to determine the path of interference?

First, I'd find the interference point of entry into the sonar. It is likely coming in on either a power wire or a tranducer.

To find which needs a 12 volt battery and a spare transducer. Remove the existing battery and power it up from a short jumper to a closeby 12 volt battery. If the i/f disappears, we know the units power wire has the interference and take additional steps to prevent it entering the power sytem.

If the i/f is still there we can pull the existing transducer and sub it with another by dropping it into the water by the sonar. Again, if the i/f is gone, we know we now need to take different additional steps to protect a tranducer/cable being contaminated with interference.

It is unlikely but possible further tests/ measures will be needed if the above is not successful with the i/f entering via a data cable ( NMEA-200 or Ethernet) or simply as emi through the case.

Once we know where the i/f is entering the sonar, we need to determine the source of the trolling motor i/f......it will be either the trolling motor lower unit or the switching electronics in the head.

[StarcraftSS]

Just had a bad interface problem between my Hummingbird and Motorguide. I jumped the negative cable under the foot pedal and ran a 16 gauge wire to the skeg on the trolling motor. Cleared the interface right up.

Wish I could run a ground to my MG skeg, but I have an Xi5.

[SoonerFan]

Wish I could run a ground to my MG skeg, but I have an Xi5.

Is it necessary to run the ground wire to the TM skeg? Could a bare wire not be held under the transducer clamps and accomplish the same thing? I'm a little skittish about drilling a hole in my brand new $2700 trolling motor.

[TritonJT]

Is it necessary to run the ground wire to the TM skeg? Could a bare wire not be held under the transducer clamps and accomplish the same thing? I'm a little skittish about drilling a hole in my brand new $2700 trolling motor.

Yes you can, just scrape away a little paint under the clamp.

[Tom B]

Mine got better when I manually set the max depth instead of it being on auto

[diveshades]

I have taken a 14 gauge wire and ran it from negative on cranking batter to one of the bolts that hold your trolling motor bracket on ( under your bow panel)most of the time that fixes it.

Thanks to all who posted. Ranger Rodney's fix worked! No more trolling motor interference any more! Hurrah, and thanks again to all!

[SoonerFan]

Thanks to all who posted. Ranger Rodney's fix worked! No more trolling motor interference any more! Hurrah, and thanks again to all!

Well let that be a start to a better life.

That's one of the things I did with mine too. I ran a wire from under the clamp holding the Transducer Shield & Saver up the shaft and then to the black negative going to the Helix. I did several things at once so I'm not sure what finally fixed it.

[Bassin Bob71]

Thanks to all who posted. Ranger Rodney's fix worked! No more trolling motor interference any more! Hurrah, and thanks again to all!

Glad to hear it....congrats

[diveshades]

I WENT OUT TODAY AND MY INTERFERENCE ISSUE IS WORSE THAN EVER. My dealer assured me that he had fixed it but after his 4th attempt, I now even have interference when the trolling motor is out of the water. Super frustrating!