I am going to replace my old dual pro on the run charger with a new on the run charger.
I know there is the same one by dual pro, one by minn kota, stealth, combiner...
Any opinions?
I am going to replace my old dual pro on the run charger with a new on the run charger.
I know there is the same one by dual pro, one by minn kota, stealth, combiner...
Any opinions?
Had a Stealth in my last two boats. My batteries stay charged and remain fresh. Fished three days in a row without AC charge with no problems.
I'm definitely biased but the Yandina Combiner is the lowest cost, longest running (since 1993) and the only one with UNLIMITED warranty.
Not to high jack the thread but how do these work with 36v systems? Do they have leads for all 3 trolling batteries and one for the cranking battery? The pictures I've seen aren't like that, that's why I ask
Stealth One is my suggestion. Have one on my ride and one on my dads. The charge on the run. Several yrs ago I lost a troll battery during a tournament, while cranking a windy point. Only way I stayed on the water was letting the engine idle, which provided power to the trolling motor batteries.
’13 21 HP, 250 ProXS, 10” Atlas, twin Power Poles, 25p Croxtonized Tempest, 2 1/2 PTP, 1/2 tank fuel, driver, all gear, empty wells, 74.7 in 102 deg heat.
No. There is one wire for the positive on the first battery and one wire for the negative on the last battery (the way the trolling motor positive and negative are hooked up). There is a jumper on the unit for either 24 or 36 volt.Originally Posted by kry29
George Brock
2015 920 Pro/XP
2015 Mercury 250 Pro/XS
Twin 8' Powerpole Blades
The Trollbridge36 works by putting the batteries in parallel when you are charging. To do that it needs two wires for each battery. The 6 cables are built in and come with crimped terminals so it is a simple installation. Since there is no voltage conversion the full available output of your alternator is available to charge the batteries, typically over 50 amps. Series charging systems with electronic switching can only supply a limited output, check the specifications if you can find them.
Does a trollbridge isolate the trolling motor from the charging voltage?
Im looking at these as well,gotta do something cuz no room for 36 volts in bilge
The Trollbridge36 has a built in isolator so the trolling motor will never draw current from the starting battery.
The Trollbridge24 does not have the built in isolator. On a 3 battery system (starting and 2 trolling batteries) you should add the Combiner100 to provide isolation. If using the Trollbridge24 on a 2 battery system (starting and one trolling battery where the starting battery doubles as one of the trolling batteries) you don't need the isolator.
I got a 3 bank Dual Pro charge on the run system. It works great, my trolling batteries were dead last year and a buddy of mine called with issues on his boat so I met him about 10 miles away since I did not have a trolling motor and towed him all the way to the ramp for about 45 minutes. I thought I would fish around the ramp for the remainder of the tournament and i stepped on the trolling motor switch and nearly threw me out of the boat. The batteries charged well enough that I could fish another two hours of my tournament. Since then I noticed that Dual Pro cancelled the 3 bank (CRS3) on the run charger. Now you have to buy a CRS2 and a CRS1 to get three batteries covered. I asked Dual Pro and they saw limited sales in that batteries are good enough now days that people don't typically value on the run chargers.
From what I read, your trolling motor wI'll only get 36v when your motor is not running basically. Anytime its charging the trolling batteries it internally switches it all to 12v per battery so your trolling motor will not have 36v at that time. Soooo, the way it looks to me if something breaks in the unit it could cause the trolling motor to not work or send mixed voltages to any battery and maybe fry something. That or on motors like the ultrex, I'm not sure if it would hurt the motor for the voltage to be reduced to 12v while it's still on, even when it's stowed. You could cut it off everytime you stow it but I won't ever remember to do that. Still on the fence about them
Sorry but this information is wrong when you talk about the Dual Pro units. There are 3 sets of leads, one for each trolling battery.
Thanks. I run a motorguide xi5 and putting charging pulses on the tm is bad. I don it think applying 12v to it is good either.
If you want 36 volts out while running the main engine there is a remote control override to allow you to run both motors at the same time.
There is a worst case scenario for every product if you want to dream it up. You can't damage a 36 volt motor by dropping the voltage to 12 volts, either when it is running or idle, otherwise it would self destruct every time someone discharged the batteries too deeply and killed one of the batteries. There is no active function in operation when putting out 36 volts, the Trollbridge36 just replicates the battery to battery jumpers so in fact the electronics is idle and drawing no current. There is nothing that needs to "cut off" every time you stow or put it in storage.
They are extremely reliable or we couldn't offer UNLIMITED warranty, check the warranty on any other electrical/electronic products on your boat!
The Trollbridge36 is MUCH safer when charging than a charger that leaves the batteries in series. During charging each battery can get up to a maximum of around 14.2 volts so the voltage on the trolling motor can reach 42.6 VOLTS. MinKota has advised DISCONNECTING your motor when charging so these high voltages are not getting to the motor. HOWEVER the Trollbridge36 puts the batteries in parallel for charging so only 14.2 volts maximum is presented to the trolling motor.
I don't understand why you think a low voltage would harm the trolling motor, it would be incredibly bad design if it self destructed when the batteries got very low.
I read your product page a day it said you could only get 24v with the remote while the engine was running. Not saying I didn't read it wrong but that's exactly what it said. The worst case deal can be for everything, no arguing that but you can't just deny it. I don't own nor do I know anyone that has used one BUT with how your product is set up it seems like it couls happen easier than others. Maybe it won't, you do have an unlimited warranty. Conventional trolling motors would probably not be effected by limiting voltage although it can mess with them if you run it for a period of time at incorrect voltage. Atleast thats what the manuals say. Today's electric motors are the ones I would worry about with all the sensors and electronics in them. There are regulators and sensors that could definitely be fried.
Yes, you did read it wrong. When using the remote you get the full 36 volts.
I'm not sure what you suspect could "happen easier than others".
Our experience has shown that motors without electronic controls continue to operate at low power on low voltage. Motors with electronics just shut down and don't send any power to the motor.
I seriously doubt that low voltage could damage any regulators or sensors, the warnings in the manuals surely apply to running with higher voltage.
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You might want to change your 36v page then if I read it wrong. This is where I got the 24v from the remote on a 36v system. The only reason I say "happen easier" is the way the unit switches internally. Just seems something could get crossed up if the unit messes up. I do think with your warranty you stand behind it. Heck, it's not a bad price either.
OMG, thanks and apologies, that is a typo, I'll correct it.
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