95 Champion 181 Jack Plate question

[gotafish10]

I tagged on to another members thread about steering, but I figured I might get some information
on my own thread. My question is this. Has anyone mounted SeaStar hydraulic steering on a 181?

My steering cables look as does the boat which is in great condition. But I think over 22 yrs the grease
on the inner cable has become hardened and the steering is hard but usable. But its not pleasant to operate
like it is. So I purchased a SeaStar HK6400-3 kit for $850. (Backed out of purchase until I find out if I can clean cables)

So now I am going to see if anyone has cleaned their Champion 181 dual cables?
Thanks for any input.

[STLBassBuster]

Not sure about the fit but if you need a jackplate look at a 6" rapid Jack.

[WaYoop]

My 181 had SeaStar hydraulic steering when I bough it, and it had no jack plate, no issues. I have since put a 6" rapid jack on it, everything works great.

[gotafish10]

I really appreciate you chiming in as I didn't want to go back with Teleflex cables as it would have been a huge pain in the butt to include removing the motor.
Thanks

My 181 had SeaStar hydraulic steering when I bough it, and it had no jack plate, no issues. I have since put a 6" rapid jack on it, everything works great.

[gotafish10]

I have another follow-up question now that I know I can go with the SeaStar hydraulic steering without jack plate.

How would someone suggest removing the cables? The only way I can see is to take a sawsall and
cut cable at the crimp collar next to the transom tube and then remove the tube from the motor for
the second cable and slide it off. Only way I see to remove them from the motor without removing the motor to give the space to move from pivot mount on outboard.
Any other suggestions???
1995 Champion 181 DC 150 Mercury XRI

[pmgoffjr]

Most of the time the cables can be restored to like new, takes a little effort but worth it.

First: NEVER EVER EVER EVER put grease on your cables EVER Grease packs up, dries out and becomes a wedge. Penetrating oil, silicone, any lube that is low viscosity and won't glum up.

you can use PB blaster or other penetrating oil, start at the motor, shoot it in and start wiping out the goo that comes out. You might have to pull the cables to completely clean the steering tubes, but eventually you'll get all the grease melted out and they'll be like new.

[Beantown]

Once you take off the rack and pinon, and you remove the steering column, then go for the nuts on the steering rods, and disconnect the linkage, you can turn the motor all the way, and yank the cables out by hand, you should not have to cut the cables. You will have plenty of play once the cables are free. Its a little bit of a pain in the neck, but its not that bad. Having a helper is a big plus also. Good Luck! Youtube also helps

[gotafish10]

Once you take off the rack and pinon, and you remove the steering column, then go for the nuts on the steering rods, and disconnect the linkage, you can turn the motor all the way, and yank the cables out by hand, you should not have to cut the cables. You will have plenty of play once the cables are free. Its a little bit of a pain in the neck, but its not that bad. Having a helper is a big plus also. Good Luck! Youtube also helps

I updated my initial post and have put buying the hydraulic steering on hold for the moment. I suspect that the issue is in the motor tubes and dried grease.
I am going to see about getting the cables cleaned and I suspect my motor will have to come off to do this. My concern is due to my health issues I can not get
into the bilge area and see if I can access the lower transom bolts without removing the tank. So will try to get someone to help me to find this out and take it from
there.