how long did you make oil?

[The gurg]

i'm at about 25 hours on my 115SHO and i'm still making good amounts of oil.

i don't idle longer than 5 minutes.
I've got atleast 4 of those hours at WOT
most of those hours are at about 4k RPM
followed the break in procedure religiously.
I've done 2 hour long runs at WOT to attempt to get the rings to seat.

in the last 5 hours, i produced about 16oz's of oil.

any ideas on how to finally get it to stop?

[Randy T]

It needs to be a continuous wot at as many RPMs as you can get. The lower the RPMs the longer it will take. I would say at least 3-4 20 minute runs.

[printman71]

As Randy said, numerous 20 minute ish runs will usually get the rings hot enough to seat.

[J Risco]

Dont know about the smaller SHOs, but one key to getting the 200-250 SHO rings to seat and running near peak rpm... closer to 6K (or even 6100) the better!!! If you are propped where you can only pull 5500 or so it will take much longer to get them seated

[richhat52]

Mine made oil until a little over 20 hours. Water temp could be holding you up if you live up north keeping her a little cool. Just keep running her on those long runs and it shouldn't take long. I also ran WOT for about 20 minutes and let off gas completely until it was idling then get right back on it. Seem to help, thats how mine quit making oil, got that suggestion from board members.

[kry29]

About 15 hrs here. I changed at mine at 10 because it was pretty high, then I ran the pics out of it as much as I could and at the 20hr change it hadn't moved much. Just checked it at 50 hrs and it was still the same. Now I don't run balls out everywhere but do give it a good run usually once a trip

[skennedy]

Mine quit between 20 and 25 hrs . The only real way to do it is commit yourself into just finish breaking it in . If you try and do it while trying fish it's not going to happen any Time soon . If you do lunch your boat 30 minutes away from where you want to fish and run it hard . motor has to stay above 140dg higher rpms is the only way to do that .

[The gurg]

I've had atleast 4 or 5, 20minute long runs at WOT pushing over 6k rpm and two over them atleast an hour long. Maybe I'll do another one this weekened. I couldn't believe I had to pull another water bottle' s worth of oil to get it back to normal again. Last time it got so high, it came out the airintake

[RDOCK]

I just read all of these posts and don't have a clue what this is about! Can you explain what the engine is making oil is all about and seating the rings.

[J Risco]

I just read all of these posts and don't have a clue what this is about! Can you explain what the engine is making oil is all about and seating the rings.

Before the piston rings get broken in/seated to the cylinder walls, very small amounts of fuel can make its way past them and into the engine oil. The engine isnt "making oil" but rather its oil is being contaminated with fuel, enough to see the oil level rise on the dipstick.

By generating heat by making long high rpm runs you help the rings "break-in" or seat with the cylinder walls so that fuel can no longer make its way past.

EDIT - that was the short answer. I could go in to more depth but dont feel like typing that much haha

[Randy T]

I've had atleast 4 or 5, 20minute long runs at WOT pushing over 6k rpm and two over them atleast an hour long. Maybe I'll do another one this weekened. I couldn't believe I had to pull another water bottle' s worth of oil to get it back to normal again. Last time it got so high, it came out the airintake

Keep at, from what I can tell its 100% or nothing and there is no progression, BUT DO NOT PULL OIL FROM YOUR MOTOR. Drain and refill completely.

[phild]

Mine is already 'broke in' / 2010 115 4 stroke. If I idle around an area for 10 minutes looking at my Side Imaging, run 4 or 5 minutes to the next spot, 10 minutes looking at side imaging and do this all day during a tournament, I will have 1/8th of an inch over the full mark every time.

[jethro1]

Yamaha's got a video in the FAQ section at their website. Might be a good idea for all to review their drain and fill procedures.

http://yamahaoutboards.com/owner-res...nd-maintenance

While fuel dilution in the oil supply is a real problem, it can be made to appear worse by folks wanting to "top off" the oil supply. Don't do that. Anywhere between the min and max lines on the dip stick is just fine. Now being close to minimum will make some people nervous. In that case, only add enough oil to get to the mid-point position on the dip stick.

And for those that have not read me write this about a jillion times, tilt the motor half way up for about five minutes before lowering the motor to drain the oil. Suction method being the preferred way. This will allow oil trapped in the block to make its way back down to the oil pan.

[phild]

Yamaha's got a video in the FAQ section at their website. Might be a good idea for all to review their drain and fill procedures.

http://yamahaoutboards.com/owner-res...nd-maintenance

While fuel dilution in the oil supply is a real problem, it can be made to appear worse by folks wanting to "top off" the oil supply. Don't do that. Anywhere between the min and max lines on the dip stick is just fine. Now being close to minimum will make some people nervous. In that case, only add enough oil to get to the mid-point position on the dip stick.

And for those that have not read me write this about a jillion times, tilt the motor half way up for about five minutes before lowering the motor to drain the oil. Suction method being the preferred way. This will allow oil trapped in the block to make its way back down to the oil pan.

First thing my mechanic said to me when I bought it was, "It is shipped with no oil, I put a fresh filter on it, fill it with this gallon of Yamalube and no more." The manual calls for 4.55 quarts and I only added the 1 gallon. When I checked it after running it once I added the oil, it was around 80%ish. Now, it is over the line so, I know exactly what you mean. This Sunday, the wife and I are going for a ride - long ride at that!!!

[RDOCK]

Before the piston rings get broken in/seated to the cylinder walls, very small amounts of fuel can make its way past them and into the engine oil. The engine isnt "making oil" but rather its oil is being contaminated with fuel, enough to see the oil level rise on the dipstick.

By generating heat by making long high rpm runs you help the rings "break-in" or seat with the cylinder walls so that fuel can no longer make its way past.

EDIT - that was the short answer. I could go in to more depth but dont feel like typing that much Jhaha

J Risco!
Thanks for the explanation. I had no idea what the hell that was all about. I'm about to start my 3rd. hour break in so I might have to hold off on the high speed runs. I wonder if Yamaha explains any of this in their operating manual?

[J Risco]

J Risco!
Thanks for the explanation. I had no idea what the hell that was all about. I'm about to start my 3rd. hour break in so I might have to hold off on the high speed runs. I wonder if Yamaha explains any of this in their operating manual?

No prob. Yamaha is very vague in their break-in procedure. Where you are at now, 3+ hrs, you can make WOT (wide open throttle) runs no problem. I would limit them to about 5-6 minutes, but once you get over 5 hours, go ahead and let her eat for a 20 min run or 2 again at WOT with rpm as close to red line as possible to get them seated nice and good.

[The gurg]

Keep at, from what I can tell its 100% or nothing and there is no progression, BUT DO NOT PULL OIL FROM YOUR MOTOR. Drain and refill completely.

thanks, I try not to but oil is expensive to change every 3 fishing trips. but then again, I guess a motor is alittle bit more expensive.

[The gurg]

Yamaha's got a video in the FAQ section at their website. Might be a good idea for all to review their drain and fill procedures.

http://yamahaoutboards.com/owner-res...nd-maintenance

While fuel dilution in the oil supply is a real problem, it can be made to appear worse by folks wanting to "top off" the oil supply. Don't do that. Anywhere between the min and max lines on the dip stick is just fine. Now being close to minimum will make some people nervous. In that case, only add enough oil to get to the mid-point position on the dip stick.

And for those that have not read me write this about a jillion times, tilt the motor half way up for about five minutes before lowering the motor to drain the oil. Suction method being the preferred way. This will allow oil trapped in the block to make its way back down to the oil pan.

I appreciate the advice. i'm definitely going to make sure it's not over half way up the marks on the dipstick until those rings are seated.

[leethefishking]

My 250 SHO stopped between 15 and 20. That was after quite a few long high speed runs though.

[skeeter03]

By draining oil down all your doing is lowering the level of contaminated oil. The oil is thinned with gas and that is not great for the motor. Drain it and replace with fresh oil. I changed mine at 5 hours level was at top of full line and when winterized (9hrs). Sent oil out and it came back as 3.8% fuel in the oil at 5 and 1.5% when it was winterized. Ran hard with less trim and oil level didn't rise as much and less fuel in oil.