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  1. #1
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    Skeeter ZX195c Speed Loss

    1998 Skeeter ZX195c
    1998 Yamaha Vmax 3.1L 200HP with 12" setback Vance Manufacturing Jackplate
    Yamaha 25M prop--one trip since it was completely worked, looks like a brand new prop
    GPS 66.8 at ~5600 rpms WOT, full trim, and full TX load
    Holeshot roughly 10 seconds to plane.

    When I bought the boat, the prop was pretty beat up and as it was setup, at 4 5/8" below pad, it would run 69.8 on GPS. I got the prop worked and it looks brand new. I took the boat out today and only got 66.8 GPS out of it. Steering was more stiff than it was before the prop was fixed. No real difference in holeshot. Before the prop work, there was a good bit of chine walk. The fixed prop seems to have helped the chine walk but I lost the speed and rpms.

    I know setting the jackplate is a trial and error system but I was hoping some of y'all might be able to help me get to a good starting point.

  2. Member crank68's Avatar
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    #2
    What changed besides the prop work and who worked it?
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  3. Banned
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    #3
    Maybe drop the motor a tiny bit (1/4"), might be slipping now. Usually a stiff steering is the motor being too high.


    Yeah I know it was different before the prop working, but it's a different prop now.

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    #4
    Crank, as far as I'm aware nothing has changed besides the prop work. I had the boat in the shop to fix a linkage problem, my mechanic recommended having the prop work done to avoid excess vibration in the engine that might replicate the linkage problem. As for who worked it, I don't know. My mechanic took care of sending the prop off.

    Scout, thanks for the tip. I was thinking that I needed to lower the motor but I wasn't sure really how much.

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    #5
    Sounds like you mechanic had some extra cup put in the prop which brought down your speed and rpm's. You lost the chine walk because your speed dropped. Skeeters need to run high to get lift and if your not throwing a tail higher than the motor I'd try raising it up 1/4" at a time until you gain rpm's but not speed, lose bow lift or water pressure.

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    #6
    He's already at recommend WOT rpms though.

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    #7
    I was running at 5800-5900 rpms before the prop was fixed with no problems. I run 18-20 psi water pressure right now. From what I have found here in the Skeeter forum, a lot of these guys run in the 2.5-3.5" below pad, while I'm at 4 5/8" below pad which seems pretty low. But the steering is pretty stiff so I'm at a loss what I should do. I should mention that I've never messed with jackplate setup before. I am putting dual 12' talons on this week as well, will that affect my setup much?

  8. Pat Goff
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    #8
    Not at all the first time I've seen a prop guy ruin a prop.
    Weight added will always affect performance.
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  9. Member J Risco's Avatar
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by pmgoffjr View Post
    Not at all the first time I've seen a prop guy ruin a prop.
    Weight added will always affect performance.
    There's a lot of "bang and grind em straight then make em shiny" prop shops out there that actually make them perform worse!
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    #10
    After you add the Talons you'll probably need a new prop. Right now I'd raise it up to 3 1/2" under and see how it runs.

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    #11
    I don't feel like the prop guy is the problem. My mechanic specializes in building performance outboards and he's been doing it for a long time. I don't think he would continue to use the shop if they weren't doing it correctly.

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    #12
    Are you sure that you're measuring prop to pad correctly, over 4" sure does seem deep. Def raise the jackplate to increase your rpms, the question now is, why did your steering get stiff all of a sudden? You have hydraulic steering, right? Check the fluid level.

  13. Pat Goff
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    #13
    When you're looking for answers you have to eliminate variables you lost five mph so exactly what changed? If you moved the motor height than put it back and now it's just the prop. If it's not running like you want give it back to the prop guy and let him keep working. Every good prop guy I've known want their work to be an improvement not a negative.
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    #14
    Scout, I may not have measured it correctly. I measured from ground to pad then from ground to my approximate prop center line then subtracted. I thought it was deep as well. May have been an inconsistency in the ground, but I thought the pavement was pretty well level. I will measure it again this weekend to confirm or update. I do have hydraulic steering. It may have just been in my mind but when I took it out, it seemed like it just didn't turn as easily as it did before. Where do I check the fluid level? I know the reservoir is on my steering wheel. Should it be full?

    Pat, I have not adjusted the plate yet. I plan to take it out on Friday and adjust it to see if I get the speed back. If it doesn't go well, I will definitely look into sending him the prop back.

  15. Pat Goff
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    #15
    Wheel torque is only caused by one thing, your prop is slipping and cavitating. Which means it's not as efficient as it was. IF the prop is the only thing different, then it's the only thing you need to change for now. Change three things and you won't know which one made the difference. Trust me, I've screwed myself up making more than one move at a time, learn from others pain.
    Pat Goff

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  16. Member crank68's Avatar
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    #16
    Great advice ^^^^

    whose the mechanic....Junior and Keith ?
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    #17
    That Pat is an experienced rascal!

  18. Member
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    #18
    If your running it too low prop to pad that will make the steering stiff too because the boat isn't lifting.

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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by mdtritn21 View Post
    If your running it too low prop to pad that will make the steering stiff too because the boat isn't lifting.
    That was my friends experience as well. Raised it up and steering got loose, got too high and it got stiff again. It was a Cajun, but I would think the principle would be the same???
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    #20
    Sorry y'all, been tied up with school work and haven't been able to respond. I forgot to measure the pad to prop when I had the boat out last. I assume the prop slip is what I can feel when when the boat is at WOT and I make little steering movements. If the jackplate was setup to run the prop in the beat up state, wouldn't I benefit from moving it up or down to see how it responds? I don't really have the time to ship the prop back and forth with a shop. If I could get rid of the slip and cavitation, I would be happy regardless of MPH I think (assuming I can still run 65+).