I would buy the nicest Lund I could find and afford.
Fiberglass
Aluminum
I would buy the nicest Lund I could find and afford.
To the OP, take a look at the triton 179trx. It's a 18' boat with a 115 for around 24 which is just above what your looking a spending anyway. Why not go that route?
Check out the Crestliner PT 20.
Justin B.
I would go Aluminum.
I got a tracker 175 txw that was only 2 years old and hardly touched for 10k, it works perfect for me.
I have owned a lot of boats and had fiberglass boats with blisters twice. Below you will see a picture of one of the hulls. I am fishing out of an aluminum boat because of them. From what I understand even the newer boats can get them even with the new coatings they are using. If they had a good fix for the problem I believe the manufacturer would warranty the hull for blister damage. The Ranger RT Aluminum boat I now own fishes as good as any boat I have owned..... If you want the boat to fish from go aluminum. That's my opinion after experiencing the problems with glass.
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The bitterness of poor quality is remembered
long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten - Benjamin Franklin
2013 RANGER RT188 - YAMAHA F115 - ULTREX - LOWRANCE GRAPHS
LOCK-N-HAUL Transom Saver, ALL ABOARD Emergency Ladder
1996 RANGER CHEROKEE - 40 YAMAHA
I would find a credit union, I know what your saying about loan length/ monthly payment... But, my credit union last time I was through offered more months that "normal" for a measly 0.15% each year, if offered 5 years on a 28k glass boat but you streach it out to 10 for 0.75% why not? It's only money can't take it with ya...
'Luminum and dont look back. 1-2 year old rt188 to be exact. Just did this myself, came from glass, was a great decision
Depends on how and where you fish, for the most part. Main lake or offshore, it would be glass for me, but since I fish skinny water and stump and timber filled creeks and bays, my choice was aluminum. I came out of a glass boat into the 198, and the main difference I see is the difference in draft.
I agree with CC. Assuming the boat passes specific criteria, like solid transom/floors/hull & trailer, then the engine is the most important part of the purchase. Take the engine cover off of every engine you can, new ones included to get an idea of what they look like. Discolored paint from running hot is a deal breaker. Corrosion from running in salt water is not good. You are looking for one that still looks new under the cover.
You didn't mention whether or not you can work on stuff and fix things that break. If you have the talent to work on a bass boat then I suggest you buy a used boat. If you are better at earning money than replacing the head gasket on a ten year old car, then I suggest you buy a new, or like new used boat. I believe there is less maintenance involved with an aluminum boat, compared to a fiberglass boat. The fiberglass boat will ride better in rough water, compared to the same size aluminum boat.
i have a 16' Jon boat with a 25 rude on the back. I was considering stepping up to a 16'-18' aluminum hull boat for a Better ride. Then my neighbor let me fish his Astro Quickfire 19SC and I was hooked on the bigger fiberglass boat, hook line & Sinker. But I have had to rebuild the trailer, and polish the gel coat, fix the soft spot in the floor and replace the steering cable. So, it's not for someone that can't work on stuff.
A lot of great advice here.
In small, skinny water, aluminum can be better.
In most other situations, glass is more desirable.
Regardless, you gotta pay to play, either with your wallet or with your time and talent.
If you would rather pay 'cuz time and talent doesn't fit your situation, an aluminum rig may be the better choice.
But with that being said, I'm a glass man, but I spend a lot of time maintaining the fleet.
You Don't Know what you Don't Know until you Know.
1984 Champion 201/Yamaha 175
1986 Ranger 390v/Yamaha 200
2002 Viper Cobra Coosa 216/Mercury 225EFI
2002 ProSports ProKat 2200/Twin Yamaha 150HPDIs
With all of the new features and options available with the trolling motors, I think the wind factor associated with alum boats is starting to be mitigated.
Spot lock and gps cruising can keep you on a particular spot or on course respectively for wind conditions that are safe to fish in (regardless of type of boat). Plan on a 24 to 36 volt TM and you will be fine.
Each have their advantages...some good perspectives on this thread.
My old ProCraft has a rotten transom and I'm pretty sure that I'll replace her with an aluminum, most likely a Ranger RT198 or a Crestliner PT18 / PT20. This boat will be used to fish in the summer and fall on the river that I live on and in the winter on the big southern reservoirs. Aluminum bassboats have come a long way in recent years wrt to size, layout and storage. Regardless of the model we end up purchasing, I'll be rigged with a 36V Ultrex.
2013 Ranger Z520c, 2013 Yamaha 250 SHO
2018 Ranger RT198p, 2013 Mercury 150 Optimax
Nothing introduced will keep the boat tracking straight when a gust comes up from behind and to the side and blows the back end around. Just came out of an 18' Jon with a jet into a Skeeter 20i and you couldn't pay me to go back to a tin. The tin was nice for the worry free end of things, didnt have to worry about stumps, laydowns, rocks, etc, but in the glass I have such a better control of the boat I dont see it as an issue now. Stability is way better, storage is better (granted the bass boat designed tins have great storage), speed is better, handles rough water much better and the control in the wind is light years better.
06 Skeeter 20i Yamaha 250 HPDI
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Whats good for one person is not for another. I fished out of aluminum for years but once I switched to glass I felt like a nuckle head for not doing it sooner. For me without doubt they (glass) fish better and ride better in all conditions. You should fish and drive both before you decide.