A replacement windshield is available for that boast as well if you want to go all-out restore. I have an '89 ProCraft ProCaster 180 I'm finishing up on presently.
A replacement windshield is available for that boast as well if you want to go all-out restore. I have an '89 ProCraft ProCaster 180 I'm finishing up on presently.
I'm back to working on the trailer, I cut and welded the fenders assuming the trailer would settle a couple inches with the boat on it. Well, it turned out looking like the trailer fenders had a lift kit...so I'm cutting them off and rewelding them lower. I have to do this before putting the boat back on the trailer. This has slowed my progress on the boat. After I cut the floor out and see what the true condition of this hull, I'll be able to make decisions concerning whether or not I should keep working on the boat. I'm pretty sure the hull is sound, but until then I'll hold off on stuff like windshields.Originally Posted by Caddis001
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if you have a link please post it because I'd like a windshield eventually.
Probably best to check out hull condition BEFORE you do ANY more work on boat and trailer.
Would really suck if you spent all that time buffing/sanding the paint....and welding the trailer etc...only to find out that you have a very shiny(and rotted out) boat.
JMO
1999 Stratos 273 / '98 Johnson 150hp
^^ I'm with Starcraft. I would have been looking into the floor & stringers first and foremost.
Got it back on the trailer yesterday. Cut a hole in the floor. It's rotting and water logged in there. Time to take the cap off.
Floor removed revealing rot and water logged foam.
Floor was stapled to the stringers, and the floor & stringers weren't coated with resin. It was not put together very well, considering it is a boat...
I made an engine stand out of 2x6 (doubled), and put the engine on it. I cleaned all the wet foam out of the opened up floor area. I'll start working on removing the compartment lids, instrument panel and whatever else that needs to come out prior to slitting the cap from the hull next. Been busy with work and life in general...I'll get it done eventually.
Last edited by Axhammer; 07-16-2017 at 04:40 PM.
I drilled the screws attaching the lower/inner cap flanges to the interior floor around the entire floor perimeter. I used an oscillating multi tool to cut and separate the cap flanges from the floor around the entire floor of the boat. I removed all the screws attaching the rub rail, and after the rub rail was removed, the additional screws under the rub rail attaching the cap to the hull were removed. There are two metal drains on each side of the splash well that need to be removed, because they go through the splash well (that is part of the cap) and the transom, that is part of the hull. What is the best way to remove these metal drains on the splash well/transom? They are about 1" in diameter, and I plan on drilling them with a large bit.
Up at the nose of the boat, when a I try to lift the cap with my fingertips it seems like there is still something holding the cap to the hull. About 8-10' back on each side, adjacent to the middle of the floor area, when I lift with my fingertips, it seems like the cap is separated from the hull and is ready to be lifted off. Further back where the seats are, and further aft where the aft live well is, the cap and hull seem to still be attached, meaning, when I lift the cap with my fingertips it seems to still be attached. When I lift at both aft corners it seems to be separated, meaning it lifts slightly, indicating it is ready to separate. The splash well and transom are still firmly attached, I need to remove the drains and the somehow separate the two.
I removed all of the locker & live well covers, and both fore & aft seat post fittings. I set some covers back in place while cutting the cap from the floor so I would have a flat surface to walk or sit on and set my fan on. Today I will take all of the covers off and try to figure out what needs to be cut to separate the cap from the hull.
How are the live wells installed? Are they going to stay with the hull when the cap is removed?
It it seems like there is fiberglass behind the seating part of the cap, that is bonding it to the hull still. It's like a puzzle to me.
I am open to suggestions from those that have removed a cap from a hull of a bass boat.
A picture of the forward floor that is separated from the cap.
I saw a couple YouTube videos today, and it looks like the live wells are attached to the cap. I was hoping to get it off this weekend, but I need to figure out where this cap is still bonded to the hull. I'll get it eventually. I've been using the 1648 Jon boat this summer, and riding in it reminds me why I like the big heavy bass boat so much. The Astro rides like a Cadillac compared to the Jon boat!
I have an 88 Procraft 1950v and this astro looks almost identical to its layout
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