How much do you guys think is reasonable to pay for rewiring a boat trailer (21 foot Triton)? It has all of the existing wires run through the trailer, and all of the lights work......the dang thing blows a fuse(running lights fuse only) every time I hook it up to the truck. I have replaced everything I can get to, and cleaned up all visible connections....it has to be a bad wire somewhere, right? Ground wire problem???
At least we had 1987....
Not a ground issue. Your brown wire has a bare patch on it someplace. Have you looked at the back of the tongue where the brown wire splits?
You might also want to verify that your truck has the right fuse in it. Found a 5A fuse in a 15A slot after several hours of looking for a short and replacing that 5A fuse half a dozen times.
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
Thanks! Ive checked the fuse and changed it multiple times. The wires have been checked everywhere they can be, all connections changed, all new lights. If the brown wire is bare it has to be inside the framed tubing....which stinks!!!Originally Posted by CatFan
Not a ground issue. Your brown wire has a bare patch on it someplace. Have you looked at the back of the tongue where the brown wire splits?
You might also want to verify that your truck has the right fuse in it. Found a 5A fuse in a 15A slot after several hours of looking for a short and replacing that 5A fuse half a dozen times.
At least we had 1987....
How hard is it to pull your running lights and disconnect the wires behind them? If it's not terrible, you can unhook all the lights on one side, tie a string onto the wire at the back and pull the wire out the front of the tube where you can inspect it. Then use the string to pull the wire back into the frame.
You can also pull the bulbs and hook up a battery charger to the wiring and move the wires everywhere you can reach them while someone watches the ammeter on the charger. When it is shorting the meter will bump up. Sometimes this will pinpoint it quickly, and sometimes it shorts every time you look at the wire.
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
You can buy a trailer wiring kit at Academy..probably other places too...using the old wires securely ATTACHED to the new ones to pull the new ones through the channel...easy fix...
years ago I spent 36 hours total rewire a Ski Boat Trailer. used 7 wire male & female metal plug & socket, HD 7 wire , all that ran in trailer and to all lights & extra marker lights and added back up lights, then the splicing & sealing, split wire looms at places could rub. the 7 wire exacto knife sheath small amount to access the internal wire to connect that particular light to wire color . then the sealing and loom cover made each 100% waterproof. So it would be a 1 time forever done job. used grote commercial trailer bases. lenses. snap in 100% waterproof marker and oval brake lights. Did every Kind of trailer I own this way. compare 7 wire to the avg cinchy 4-5 wire /plug usually get for boat trailers.. I did also on the boat trailers have the very end plugs wired in with the 7 pin. in case had to pull or mine pulled by another with just the 4-5 plug. And the 7 blade to 4 converter in glove box on hand. had 2 femal 7 pin on truck 1 side was for any trailer w/o electric Brakes , other side wired for electric Brakes + Hot full time 12v for Battery on trailer brake pull cable actuator. and it also kept a charge on camper trailer in house battery as traveled. Total cost around $125.00 for the extra lights/ Back Up lights . 7 wire , split tubing, butt connectors, silicone for spliced area, electric tape . then just some time. I ran wire in loom form just 1 side needed on reverse light from truck.
Now a days can get a factory style plug in connector to the 7 wire system. I did the way with my 85 Silverado diesel. my last truck still have 2001 Dodge 4x4, I got the plug in connector for it since had the dash electric Brake Controller. way the camper side with full time 12v could put a 3 point mount electric winch at rear if desired. and get the front winch hitch mount. But I don't go off 4x4 in Middle of no where, As don't have the desire or need to access places like that ..lolo So you have many choices of up grades, desires or customize things your way
Last edited by Bass AHolic; 05-22-2017 at 11:57 PM.
You should look at all the light assemblies first. A lot of times the side running lights have exposed terminals that can short to the frame when they are bolted on, and light bulbs and LED's will short out too. You could replace only the brown wire and splice it into the front plug. It's neater to run it inside the frame but it could also be ziptied outside.
Had a mouse or mice get in a boat trailer years ago and chewed on the wire insulation. Every time the wire touched the frame, the fuse in the truck blew. Had to take a break during our short season to rewire the trailer.
Now I fill up the openings at the swing part of the trailer with steel wool when I winterize my boat to minimize mice getting in there.
2006 Triton TR-21 XD, Mercury 225 Pro XS, S/N 1B287870
Speaking of mice, my buddy Larry called me to help rewire his new Ranger trailer where a squirrel had chewed the wiring off just behind the 5 pin plug. I rewired it. A week later he called, the squirrel did the same thing. We had to build an aluminum box to put the wires in between trips.
^^^^ add Idea of using steel wool to plug the various unscreened holes in gas vents and side hull for live well and drain plug hole , keep bugs out (dirt dobbers) when stored good idea! Bob GHad a mouse or mice get in a boat trailer years ago and chewed on the wire insulation. Every time the wire touched the frame, the fuse in the truck blew. Had to take a break during our short season to rewire the trailer.
Now I fill up the openings at the swing part of the trailer with steel wool when I winterize my boat to minimize mice getting in there.
I already plug up the transom holes too with steel wool when I winterize. I put 5 mouse traps in the boat in various locations and monitor it once per month during winter when I charge the batteries. Also have 2 mouse bait stations on the ground filled to the max with the green mouse bait blocks. And 1 Adirondack mouse trap bucket too. And I disconnect the bow strap and boat buckles. Have not any mice in my boat for the last few years. I hate mice.
2006 Triton TR-21 XD, Mercury 225 Pro XS, S/N 1B287870
Totally not related to wiring - but if you guys want to keep mice out of your boats.........just throw down several bounce dryer sheets when you winterize. Put a few in each compartment and several on the floor. Mice hate them, and they leave your boat smelling nice in the spring. We used to do this with our camper every winter and never had a single mouse turd in it. I do this to my boat every winter too.
THIS SPACE FOR RENT
Reply With Quote