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  1. Member 95202DCX's Avatar
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    #21
    You want to know where the most moisture is now so you can act accordingly...2 weeks you won't be able to tell where you have to concentrate your effort. The holes inside can be filled with resin and re bilge coated to disappear with ZERO effect if done correctly.
    1998 202 DC / Mercury 300R

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    #22
    OK. Drilled 4 small holes half way into the transom from the bilge area. Drilled till i saw wood shavings. They were wet. The motor mount and splash well drain holes seem dry. Ill get a meter in a week or so. No water out of the 4 small holes inside, but more water seems to be comming from the hole on the outside of the transom at the bottom from the temp sensor since I put the holes inside. The water is clear and not brown .
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  3. Member 95202DCX's Avatar
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    #23
    I would take moisture meter readings at each hole and then run my heat lamps for 2 weeks, shut lights off and let it sit a day or too and take more readings. Run your lamps until your sure it's dry.

    Then find some cedar dowel that will fit easily, coat with resin and fill holes, another coat of resin after they dry sand and then Paint your bilge completely with bilge coat and you should be good to go inside.

    Then you need to fix the outside holes and make sure EVERYTHING is sealed well.
    1998 202 DC / Mercury 300R

  4. Member MMosher's Avatar
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    #24
    Keep cooking it.

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    #25
    I'm cookin the snot out of it MM. I'm jsut glad the water comming out is clean and not brown .

  6. Member MMosher's Avatar
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    #26
    I would be too. Been down a worse road than this before. It sucks.

  7. Member
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    #27
    oh it does. Today it got to 60, light wind, could have even done some yellow belly fishing and bass fishing with blade baits. All I can do it make sure I'm not burning the gelcoat LOL. The worst was Sunday watching a skeeter zip across my lake....

  8. Member MMosher's Avatar
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    #28
    I was boatless shore trash for 8 weeks. My repair guys said it take two weeks. I was geeking bad to get back on the water.

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    #29
    Just a small update.
    Had a weird thing happen. I grabbed a turkey baster to see if I could suck some of the dripping water out of that small screw hole at the bottom of the transom. As i pushed the bulb it burbled water out of the bottom port side bolt hole. So being the kind of guy I am. I grabbed the air hose and sprayer chuck and gave it a fast shot of 30 pis air. More water came out. So I turned it down to 20 psi and just held it over the hole. Water burbled out of the bolt hole for a minute then stopped. Since then no water has dribbled back out of the temp sensor hole at the bottom. Put the lamps back on it and off we go again.

  10. Member MMosher's Avatar
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    #30
    I'll post a link to my transom replacement and the wood that I pulled out of it (not rotted stuff just wet). Anyway I took a chunk of it home and put in the garage and forgot about it. Found it several weeks later and just air drying it was completely dry and solid. Point being if there's not rot and ya get it all dried out it should be as solid as ever. http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread....7602&highlight=

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    #31
    I would think if you can blow air thru transom it may have some voids in there...But then again that's just my way of thinking...
    Bruce Phillips
    1995 190 DC champion ......1995 200 xri merc

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    #32
    If mine ever got like that, I will never know Matt. I am so not digging down into it that far. All the holes in the transom are still solid wood. Just damp. No weird hollow sounds when ya tap on it all over. I'm hoping 2 more weeks under the lamps, a moisture test and hopefully put it back together before I miss the pre spawn up here.

  13. Member BigMouth's Avatar
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    #33
    Swab the holes with some acetone it will help draw out the water and speed the process up. Good luck!

  14. Member MMosher's Avatar
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    #34
    ^truth

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    #35
    Good luck. I know how frustrating it is to sit and wait on the heat lamps.

  16. Member
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    #36
    I think it is finally making progress. For a week now, no water has dripped anywhere and if you shove TP in the temp sensor hole . It comes out dry!. Now I'm really getting itchy to put it back together.

  17. Member 95202DCX's Avatar
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    #37
    Nice!!! Were you able to get a moisture meter to take some readings?
    1998 202 DC / Mercury 300R

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    #38
    Hopefully tomorrow my buddy will come by with his from the wood working shop he owns. It's one of them really expensive ones that should work well. I hate to go buy one at lowes for 40 bucks and use it once. I'm thinking another 2 weeks under the lamps should do it.

  19. Member 95202DCX's Avatar
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    #39
    Quote Originally Posted by Fishin Polock View Post
    Hopefully tomorrow my buddy will come by with his from the wood working shop he owns. It's one of them really expensive ones that should work well. I hate to go buy one at lowes for 40 bucks and use it once. I'm thinking another 2 weeks under the lamps should do it.
    1998 202 DC / Mercury 300R

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    #40
    Well, bad news from the heat lamp front. She is back to dripping some water. Not very much and it is tap water clear. This I do not understand. It should have a tanic stain to it, but it does not. So I taped the shop vac to the hole at the bottom, and left it running with the heat lamp on it. The big problem is . I have no other choice than to put the boat back together starting next weekend. I have events starting in 2 weeks and can not miss any of them . So. I am out of time and options. It must go back together starting next sunday. Planning on running it this year and in the fall, replacing the wood with seacast. I hate this, but there is no other option.

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