Thru hull transducer not reading depth at high speeds...

[BucketMouth1]

I am running a helix 9 SI at the dash and I also bought the high speed shoot thru hull transducer as well. Got it out for first time today and it was not picking up my depth running at high speed, reading 1.7 feet the same as when I was just running only the SI transducer...is the thru hull transducer supposed to show up in my "network" tab? It is only showing that I have my SI transducer connected and also my dual beam transducer up front. I have the Y-cable connecting the two at the helm, and I checked both and they are for sure in all the way...any ideas? I was not able to test the location where I installed since there was only really 1 spot to install it in the back, which I THINK was the most logical place to put it anyhow, but even if it were in bad location, wouldn't it at least be trying to read my depth at high speeds even if it was sporatic? any help much appreciated, thanks.

[Bob B]

The Y cable makes the shoot thru transducer electrically appear to be part of the SI transducer ...... nothing in the network tab.

You are demonstrating the reason testing is advised....This location doesn't seem to be good.

[445papalima]

If you are using a Y cable you will only get 2D with your shoot thru ducer. Sounds like it is too far back and won't read if it's out of the water

[Wayne P.]

In the Ethernet menu, you choose the source for 2D sonar, DI, SI, Temp and GPS or any other network accessories.

The source of the sonar data is the unit they are connected to.

If you don't have the console unit as a source for Sonar in the bow unit's Ethernet menu, the shoot-thru is either not connected or does not work.

Even if you screw up the installation of the shoot-thru, it would still be a choice in the menu.

To test where the issue is, disconnect both of the console unit's transducers from the Y cable and plug just the SI transducer into the console unit. Check both unit's Ethernet menu for a Sonar source.

Next disconnect the SI transducer and just plug the shoot-thru into the console unit, check the Ethernet menus for a Sonar source. If the transducer is faulty you won't see the console units as a Sonar source.

If both tests show both units have Sonar, then the Y cable is either bad or you did not connect the shoot-thru correctly to the Y cable.

[sfw1960]

If you're NOT getting reading only @ hi speed - the installation wasn't tested properly before the XDCR was fastened.

[BucketMouth1]

Thanks for the info guys!

[glasscat]

When running up on pad, I've never had a true depth reading. Always run locations where you are comfortable. I have seen others say they read depth at 70 mph, but realistically you better be in water you know.

[jimmybass2]

When running up on pad, I've never had a true depth reading. Always run locations where you are comfortable. I have seen others say they read depth at 70 mph, but realistically you better be in water you know.

I remember the one time I was lucky enough to fish on Table Rock, I went BLASTING into a creek arm and caught my personal best largemouth. After fishing a bit longer, I found a tree top just under the surface with my trolling motor. This was in the area I came into on plane!
Agree completely, you better be in water you know! That was and is the LAST TIME I go blasting into a creek on The Rock at 70MPH.

[sfw1960]

Yep, it's not the speed that will wreck your day, it's the sudden STOP that'll put a kink in yer upper lip!

[mn_bowhunter]

Share a pic of the install location and also where it is under the boat. What kind of boat?

[JohnnyO]

It sounds like the transducer is located too far forward, so that when you are on pad the transducer is actually out of the water, even being a shoot thru, this can happen.

[sfw1960]

It sounds like the transducer is located too far forward, so that when you are on pad the transducer is actually out of the water, even being a shoot thru, this can happen.

Yes Sir....

[jimmybass2]

At one point, I had a small section of Hamby's keel guard hanging loose at the most rearward point. Having it drag in the water at full blast was enough to cause air bubbles in the water that broke up my signal. It doesn't take much...

[BucketMouth1]

[BucketMouth1]

in the top picture...the X is about where it is located, but a little further back. Second picture the circle is roughly where its at...

[Sbp]

in the top picture...the X is about where it is located, but a little further back. Second picture the circle is roughly where its at...

That upper step isn't in the water on plane.

[mn_bowhunter]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Do you get readings when you idle, and then lose bottom when you get up on pad? That would be why, as the transducer isn't on the pad it's on the step. I'd move that down onto the pad nearest center on a flat surface (nearest the drain plug).

[BucketMouth1]

yup, you live and u learn i guess...it seamed nearly impossible to get down into the area where the bottom drain plug is, and we weren't aware of the "upper step" at the time, just me being in too big of a hurry to get the thing on

[jimmybass2]

yup, you live and u learn i guess...it seamed nearly impossible to get down into the area where the bottom drain plug is, and we weren't aware of the "upper step" at the time, just me being in too big of a hurry to get the thing on

Yuck... now the "break it off" process begins.... or more dollars.

[mn_bowhunter]

It usually is nearly impossible! For me, I had to remove a battery, onboard charger, two support trays, and remove a bunch of hoses for livewell plumbing to gain access to that area. It's quite a bit of work, but worth it in order to get a solid reading. Just take a small 2x4 and put it against the transducer and give it a whack and it should pop loose. The biggest thing is prepping the area properly when you re-mount this one if you are going to do that. I used a wire wheel on a cordless drill and some sandpaper. Clean up the area really good before you start in to put in the transducer. I used plumbers putty to build a dam for the epoxy, put the epoxy in, transducer in and then set something with just a little bit of weight on top of it and let it cure for 24 hours. Then go to work re-assembling everything you took apart!