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  1. #1
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    What else needed to mount talon and ultrex?

    Did my part to keep our economy running and purchased a new talon and ultrex from Mr Jones, but I have not had a chance to really get into the instructions. I have all the talon brackets I need to physically mount it, but Im wondering about other stuff--fuses, switches, etc. Heading off on a business trip and Id like to order anything else I need so its there when I get back and attempt to mount it all since I can't buy most of that locally.

    I got an 80lb ultrex and current TM has a 50amp circuit breaker--I believe I need a 60amp? I assume I would use my existing plug thats on my 74lb maxxum. Anything else needed for the ultrex install? Anything for the heading sensor, etc?

    On the talon (12' if it matters) do I need a fuse and holder, any additional wiring (wiring for deployed alarm if I want to take it all the way to the ignition?) or a cutoff switch to charge batteries? I do not have a fold-down bracket, just the universal jackplate bracket. Not sure how that'll fit my aurora cover or if I shrink-wrap the boat for winter, but do I need a quick-disconnect for the wiring? Anything else I'll need?

    Thanks very much!

  2. Member
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    #2
    You will need the 60A breaker for the Ultrex to replace your 50A. On the Talon, just a 12ga wire going to a terminal that is hot with key in on position. I would also suggest a cutoff switch to keep the Talon from running the battery down. breakers are included with the Talons. If you're going to be removing the Talon, the quick disconnects makes it easier.
    Call me if you need me to ship those parts.
    John
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  3. Member
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    #3
    Is there any reason not to use the quick disconnect plug INSTEAD of a switch, i.e. just unplug it for charging and storage the way I do my trolling motor?

  4. Member Syncros's Avatar
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    #4
    I put the new style quick disconnect on my talons last spring and they have worked great and make it a lot easier if you want to remove your talons.

    I replaced my 50 amp circuit breaker with one of these https://www.bluesea.com/products/cat...=Surface_Mount which works as power switch as well (my trolling motor is hard wired). I have a separate switch off the starting battery that the positive leg of the Talon is on.

    There was a post recently about Ultrex install tips that had a ton of good info. The two most import tips from my experience would be to use anti seize on the bolts. I always seem to forget and end up seize a bolt or two. If you don't have your cables run on the ultrex and are checking your install and how it deploys be really careful not to catch a cable in the hinge at the head. I've managed to cut a HB SI transducer cable and the ethernet cable. The ethernet cable is soldered to the board so it's not as easy as getting a new cable (or transducer). I'm not the only guy to have done that so that made me feel a little bit less of an idiot.

    The heading sensor just needs power (no fuse).

  5. Member
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    #5
    Thanks, I subscribed to that thread just in case.

    If anyone has insight into the switch versus unplugging talons using the quick-disconnect I'm all ears. I unplug my trolling motor before every time I charge it, so it's no biggie I think to also unplug the talons--just not sure if the QD is not designed for that much use if it would break, be a royal pain, etc, or if it would work fine and accomplish the same thing with a minimum of extraneous rigging in the bilge.

  6. Member Syncros's Avatar
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    #6
    The new MK quick disconnect would probably handle being unplugged regularly. I didn't use the old version which was just a plug that got spliced in. You will need to pull off the cover on the motor, cut some heat shrink off the existing cables quick connects, plug the new cable in and heat shrink it (MK gives you the HS).

    I like having a master power switch because it cuts power to everything on my boat. There really isn't a lot of rigging for them. The only additional wiring I have is an 18 inch 2 ga wire running from the positive battery terminal to one leg of the switch. All the positive leads except for my depth finders and battery charger go to another leg of the switch. I don't turn my power until until I'm prepping to launch and I turn it off after put my motor mate on as I'm getting ready to leave.